Need a refresher course in buffing

[bobs409]

Hi, it's been a while since I was here. I see there are even MORE products out now! I was confused back in 2005!

First, is there one location where I can view the products and descriptions of them on this site? Mostly the professional line is what I'm interested in. I went to mequiarsdirect.com but that isn't really helping.


Secondly, I want to buff out my 72 Chevelle but need the list of products and the order to use them.

It's hugger orange single stage acrylic enamel that is fully cured. I am wetsanding it to either 1500 or 2000. Now, what's the next steps? Give me the recipe from wetsand to wax please.

I have an orbital and a G100. Need to know what products to use and the proper pads for each. Don't be afraid to add all the juicy details too!


Thanks,

Bob

[SHYNEMAN123]

Re: Need a refresher course in buffing

Welcome back.

Now the bad news , You won't get 1500 0r 2000 grit sand scratches out with a DA or an Orbital you need a rotary.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Need a refresher course in buffing

All of our products are listed and described HERE and all can be purchased online as well.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Need a refresher course in buffing

Now, what's the next steps? Give me the recipe from wetsand to wax please.

I have an orbital and a G100. Need to know what products to use and the proper pads for each. Don't be afraid to add all the juicy details too!

SHYNEMAN123 is right, in order to remove sanding marks you're going to need a rotary buffer. Here's a thread with pictures of the different categories of different types of machines, click on it and it will show you what you have and what you want...

Machine Photos - DA Polishers - Rotary Buffers - Traditional Orbital Buffers

You want a tool that looks like one of these,

Rotary Buffers

The Makita 9227C Rotary Buffer with the Hoop Style Handle



The Hitachi Rotary Buffer with the Hoop Style Handle


The DeWalt 849 Rotary Buffer with the Stick Style Handle



Once you get a rotary, you're in for some work that's going to require some strong arms, strong back and strong legs as running a rotary buffer over a car at least twice is a lot of work, (once for your heavy cutting pass and a second time for your second pass with a less aggressive product and pad).

As for product, we have a number of options, the easiest would be to use our Solo System,

Meguiar's Solo System - One Liquid System

and 2 of these 4 pad selections...

Solo Pad System

The above would be for use with a rotary buffer, after you finish cutting out your sanding marks and then finishing you second-step rotary buffer polishing step if you want to insure a swirl free finish you would want to re-polish each panel using a DA Polisher, that is get away from a direct rotating tool and move to a tool that oscillates.

For this step you would use a cleaner/polish like our M80 Speed Glaze with a W-8006 polishing pad.

After this step you would wait for 30 days or whatever your painter recommended and then apply a finishing wax.

So let us know when you get a rotary buffer...

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Need a refresher course in buffing

We have so much information on our forum that it's easy to become overwhelmed, that's kind of a good thing but also a bad thing... (sorry, keeps me busy too)

Much of the meat on our forum can be found in this forum group

The Information Station

In that forum group, there are several sub-forums...

Hot Topics

How To Articles

How To Videos

Frequently Asked Questions

Myths & Confusion

Forum Related How-To Articles
(These are how to articles on how to do things on discussion forums, not on your car)


If you click on the How To Videos sub-forum you'll find some videos you can watch on how to use a rotary buffer.


Hope this helps...

[bobs409]

Re: Need a refresher course in buffing

Sorry guys, I goofed that up. (was tired) I do have a rotary. Not sure why I put orbital?

I did go through this once before. In 2005, I came here for advice on how to buff out my 66 Impala that I painted black single stage acrylic enamel. It came out perfect but that was 3 years ago and my memory isn't what is used to be.

I did a search but couldn't find the exact thread on it.

On that car, I know I wet sanded to 2000 since it was black but forget the various products/steps after that.

Now with all the new products I see, it's even more confusing.


Thanks,


Bob

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Need a refresher course in buffing

Now with all the new products I see, it's even more confusing.

Did you see this posted above?

As for product, we have a number of options, the easiest would be to use our Solo System,

Meguiar's Solo System - One Liquid System

and 2 of these 4 pad selections...

Solo Pad System

The above would be for use with a rotary buffer, after you finish cutting out your sanding marks and then finishing you second-step rotary buffer polishing step if you want to insure a swirl free finish you would want to re-polish each panel using a DA Polisher, that is get away from a direct rotating tool and move to a tool that oscillates.

For this step you would use a cleaner/polish like our M80 Speed Glaze with a W-8006 polishing pad.

After this step you would wait for 30 days or whatever your painter recommended and then apply a finishing wax.

Another option would be to use M105

M105 Ultra Cut Compound - New

Do a search on both Solo and M105 and see what other people are saying...


Advanced Search

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Need a refresher course in buffing

I did a search but couldn't find the exact thread on it.

If you click on your name in the upper left hand side of any of your messages it will show drop down list with some links, one will say,

Find more posts by _blank_ (the forum member's name)

You can then click on this link and pull up a list of all their posts, I did this for you and here's two related threads,

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7150

And this one,

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7335

And here's your Chevelle,




Lot's of people like our Solo System and M105, the Solo System is fairly Bubba Proof in that you use one liquid and change your pads for cutting or polishing depending upon what you want to do.


M105 is more aggressive than M86 (Solo compound), but it's really only as aggressive as you work it and it finishes out like you just polished the paint. This would be my personal choice to start with and then follow up with a secondary polish to get it perfect.

You don't always know what secondary polish is going to work best till you get to that step and test a few products, thus no "Use this recommendation"

There's some option for you...

[VonLego]

Re: Need a refresher course in buffing

I agree-- 105 and follow it up with something light, perhaps 80 on the DA

[christian6984]

Re: Need a refresher course in buffing

here a good rotary guide if it helps (by the legendard Dave KG)

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=66024