Dry Buff

[Ken_Allen]

As said earlier, I got a backing plate for the foam pads finally and a yellow w8000 pad for the rotary. I only got help from one person last time and I tried what they said, and it didn't help.

I spray quick detailer on the w8000 and then put a line of 80 or 83 around the edge of the pad, spread it out without the rotary on, then go to a buff at around 1600rpm. It immediately dries like it's being sucked back up into the pad.

What am I doing wrong? I see all of these videos on youtube and after spreading the product, it looks like it's creamy on the paint. Mine looks way different.

I want to use the foam pads for more lighter finishing over the wool pads.

[yalerd]

Re: Dry Buff

put a line of 80 or 83 around the edge of the pad, spread it out without the rotary on, then go to a buff at around 1600rpm.

Do this, apply a strip or bead of product about 6" to 8" long and pick up your bead, you can find how to pick up a bead on YouTube I think.

Did you prep the surface?
Did you try to work at a lower RPM speed?
How fast are you moving the machine?

[Ken_Allen]

Re: Dry Buff

Do this, apply a strip or bead of product about 6" to 8" long and pick up your bead, you can find how to pick up a bead on YouTube I think.

Did you prep the surface?
Did you try to work at a lower RPM speed?
How fast are you moving the machine?

Wash with DC wash, clayed then I go to 83.

I'm moving the rotary pretty slow because I read otherwise you create hazing.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Dry Buff

Not that it should matter but have you tried the picking up a bead or strip of product method instead of applying your product directly to the face of the pad?

That's usually a recipe for splatter everywhere.

[Ken_Allen]

Re: Dry Buff

Not that it should matter but have you tried the picking up a bead or strip of product method instead of applying your product directly to the face of the pad?

That's usually a recipe for splatter everywhere.

Haha yep, most of my car is little white dots.

[Gary_Hall]

Re: Dry Buff

i had this same problem with my car! right when i put the rotory on the roduct it dried up and maid the paint really hazy.. but when i when with a machine polish it shined right up!! i have single stage paint, so i think that is what was causing it for me!

[Ivan Rajic]

Re: Dry Buff

Ken, what exactly do you do after applying product to the pad? The only thing I can see happening is that once you put the product on the pad, you place the pad on the paint and start the machine, which most likely pushes most of the product into the pad and you have very little to work with.

What you should be doing is spreading the product on the paint with the polisher off, making sure the area you plan on polishing is completely covered with polish before turning the machine on. Another thing that will help is applying product in an "X" pattern or a wavy pattern on the pad (basically irregular so it's not circular and more pad gets more polish rather than just that one line 1/2" or so from the edge.. I hope you understand what I'm saying.

There's no way the products should be drying up that fast, especially #80 which lasts and lasts and lasts for me with 8006 and Makita.

[Ken_Allen]

Re: Dry Buff

Ken, what exactly do you do after applying product to the pad? The only thing I can see happening is that once you put the product on the pad, you place the pad on the paint and start the machine, which most likely pushes most of the product into the pad and you have very little to work with.

What you should be doing is spreading the product on the paint with the polisher off, making sure the area you plan on polishing is completely covered with polish before turning the machine on. Another thing that will help is applying product in an "X" pattern or a wavy pattern on the pad (basically irregular so it's not circular and more pad gets more polish rather than just that one line 1/2" or so from the edge.. I hope you understand what I'm saying.

There's no way the products should be drying up that fast, especially #80 which lasts and lasts and lasts for me with 8006 and Makita.

I do spread it with it off, as I do with the wool pads. Then I turn it on to full 1600RPM and go over it with a slight amount of pressure.

I've tried it on a few paints. Hundyai Elantra, Dodge Shadow, and a Civic 1500. The Dodge Shadow did the best with it, but it still dried up pretty fast though.

I sometimes have the problem with the Wool pads too, but nothing like the foam pads.

[jmakado]

Re: Dry Buff

The key to #83 is using the right amount of product. More so than any of the other polishes IMO. Try using a little less product (only go halfway around the pad) and working a smaller area at a lower RPM to get the hang of it. Think of it this way, the circumference of a 6.5" pad is just over 20"....so you are using a lot of product when you go all the way around the pad. When the product dries up real quick is it tough to remove? If it is tough to remove then too much product is almost for sure the problem. Also, make sure you shake your bottle a lot before you use it. I had an issue with #83 once where I let it sit for over a year and didn't shake it before I used it. It wouldn't spread for anything!

Last thing, make sure the paint is cool to the touch and not in direct sunlight. #83 on hot or even warm paint is not fun. The fact that you are having good luck with the wool pad (runs cooler) and not the foam pad (runs warmer) made me think of this.

[netspec]

Re: Dry Buff

Not that it should matter but have you tried the picking up a bead or strip of product method instead of applying your product directly to the face of the pad?

That's usually a recipe for splatter everywhere.

Once I learned how to pick up a strip of product, I haven't had a problem spreading product. Give it a try!