Has anyone tryed M105 on a lacquerd car , or any Meguiars products? Have to buff out 2 model t's and model a's with 30 year old paint. Any help would be great thanks. Jim
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M105 for Lacquerd car
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Re: M105 for Lacquerd car
Lacquer paint, especially old lacquer paint is very soft and often times very thin. If it's like most old lacquer paint where it has NOT been maintained with a quality product like #7 or one of our other pure polishes then the paint is also likely very dry.
You don't need M105, remember what we're always teaching people on this forum,
"Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"
First, how are you going to do the work? By hand or machine?
Second, I've personally buffed out a couple of old Model T's and Model A's and they have raised body seams as well as a lot of hard edges and you don't want to get a buffer on these places.
It's actually very easy to restore the color to the paint using just M80 by hand, it's also very safe because by hand you have very good control. Rub the paint out by hand with M80 and then follow this up with a quality wax like NXT or M26 or even Gold Class.
What condition is the paint on these two old cars like right now?
Pictures? Before pictures are very important because once you polish out the paint you can never get them again.
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Re: M105 for Lacquerd car
Originally posted by hot rod View PostI used 80 on a lacquer car before & it was real greasy after i buffed it with the pc.
Cleaning Your Pad On The Fly
Point being, M105 is a heavy cutting compound for use with a rotary buffer and probably too aggressive for removing swirls out of lacquer paint.
We buffed out this very old lacquer paint job on the 1948 Bentley using Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner by hand, working only a section at a time, about 18" square or so and it worked really well. We would have used M80 except we wanted to show that OTC products are more than enough to do a spectacular job.
Did this 1948 Bentley last weekend, it has an older re-paint using single-stage lacquer paint that's thin in a number of places. For this reason and because it has a lot of raised or hard body lines, (lots of older cars are like this while the body lines on many new cars look more like ice cream that has begun to melt, that is everything is smoothed over), every step was performed by hand.
Before
We snapped a couple shots of the trunk while the sun was at the right angle to capture a before and after shot of the paint condition.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLibby04
How did you get the swirls out of that paint Mike?
By hand using Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner followed by the Deep Crystal System and topped with M16.
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Re: M105 for Lacquerd car
I will be working with the pc & maybe the rotory. I cleaned the pad after every section with the 80. I was thinking of trying 66 at first just to see what will happen. I have had no issues with the 80 on any other car than the lacqerd one.
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Re: M105 for Lacquerd car
Might consider #9 Swirl Remover 2.0 also, it's a light cleaner but it's rich in polishing oils with some cleaning ability, by machine on lacquer paint it should work pretty well.
Could even try the Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner with the PC/DA Polisher like we used by hand on the old Bentley.
The paint on these cars is going to abrade off very easily if it's truly lacquer paint, so you don't need to get too aggressive. If you bring a rotary buffer down on this paint be careful around high points and edges and use a speed of around 1500rpm and light to medium pressure.
Just don't want to see you burn through any edges or even a flat panel.
After the cleaning step, (whatever you end up using), a pure polish applied by hand or machine will really help to bring out the full richness of color in the paint, M03 or M07 would both be good picks to apply by hand or machine, (DA Polisher, not rotary).
Best of luck to you, sounds like really fun jobs.
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