How to use #66 - Quick Detailer?

[Heatgain]

My question concerns the use of M66 - Quick Detailer.
I plan to use it on cars that the owners don't want to pay for what I consider the proper method for most daily drivers - Wash, clay, #80, NXT 2.0. (or #83 before 80, if necessary).
I'm doing like one car a weekend for co-workers and others, but although their jaw drops at the results on my cars from the above procedure, they're really not as picky as me or as interested in paying for that kind of result.
So I bought a gallon of M66, figuring that would cut back on time and product spent on a car yet give them a result they would love anyway and hopefully pay $75.00 for. All cars will be clayed anyway.
I read on here I should use an 8006 pad with the M66 if I'm looking to reduce swirls and leave a waxed finish. My question - how long to work the M66 with the 8006 pad? I figure if I work it long enough to remove swirls, then maybe I'm removing the M66 before it's ready for the swipe test, resulting in wiping off the wax before it's set up.
Or am I supposed to remove (some) swirls with an 8006 and M66 and follow up with a 9006 and M66? I think not, because that would defeat the purpose of a "one-step quick detailer."
Certainly if a potential customer brings me a car that needs 80 or 83 first, (after claying), then I would try to convince them of the need.
So, what is the correct procedure for using M66 successfully?

[roushstage2]

Re: How to use #66 - Quick Detailer?

I use it on an W-8006 pad at speed 5, and work it in just like M80 except I leave it on the paint to dry and cure like a regular wax.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: How to use #66 - Quick Detailer?

I read on here I should use an 8006 pad with the M66 if I'm looking to reduce swirls and leave a waxed finish.

My question - how long to work the M66 with the 8006 pad?

I figure if I work it long enough to remove swirls, then maybe I'm removing the M66 before it's ready for the swipe test, resulting in wiping off the wax before it's set up.

So, what is the correct procedure for using M66 successfully?

For the kind of work you're doing, you shouldn't be trying to remove all the swirls and scratches, in fact all you should be doing is trying to make the paint clear and glossy. Fact is some of the light or shallow swirls and scratches will come out because M66 is a great product, but that's a feature of the product and your process not your goal.

Your customer has a daily driver, probably doesn't understand paint technology and what it requires to remove swirls and scratches and then the follow-up which is how they need to start washing it so the swirls and scratches don't come back.

See the point? For daily drivers and "Joe Consumer", you don't want to be trying to do Show Car Detailing, but instead Production Detailing and that's just getting the paint clean which will result in a clear and glossy clear coat with good shine.

So take the M66 and shake it up well and then pour some off into a secondary squeeze bottle, we offer one that holds 12 ounces just for this purpose but you could use what you can get.

Apply some to your W-8006 polishing pad and set your polisher on the 5.0 setting and then buff out a small section about 16" square or so, just like using M80 you don't want to tackle to big an area because you want to focus the pad and the M66's cleaning power to a small area for good results.

Work the product for 4 passes total, that is 2 sets of passes front to back and 2 sets of passes side to side and then stop and let the wax dry. While it's drying you can move on to a new section and be sure to overlap into the previous section a little.

You work the product just like you would work M80 Speed Glaze only you want to let it dry and of course you don't want to buff to a dry buff.

Be very careful to either tape off any pebble textured trim or avoid it as most cleaner/waxes tend to dry white on trim.

I'll add a picture in a few seconds....

[Heatgain]

Re: How to use #66 - Quick Detailer?

Thanks Mike.

[Hemin8r]

Re: How to use #66 - Quick Detailer?

I use it on an W-8006 pad at speed 5, and work it in just like M80 except I leave it on the paint to dry and cure like a regular wax.

I'm with Roush as well.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: How to use #66 - Quick Detailer?

Read this and substitute the M66 for the M80 step and of course let the wax dry before wiping it off.

Using the G-100 to remove swirls with the Professional Line



Read this for tips and techniques for using a DA Polisher


Tips & Techniques for using the G110, G100, G220 and the PC Dual Action Polisher
(These are all similar tools)


Now look at the below picture, what you want to do is move your polisher in the manner depicted and go in each direction 2 times. So that would be,

1. Side to side over the area you're working
2. Front to back over the area you're working
3. Side to side over the area you're working
4. Front to back over the area you're working

Repeat the two passes shown in the picture twice to the section you're working.


That's 4 passes total in two different directions. By the time you've done this and you've used good technique for holding the polisher flat, applying the right amount of pressure, using the right amount of product and using a slow arm speed, you will effectively worked the diminishing abrasives and the chemical cleaners into and against the paint and you should be getting paint that looks clear and shiny when you wipe the dried residue off.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: How to use #66 - Quick Detailer?

I use it on an W-8006 pad at speed 5, and work it in just like M80 except I leave it on the paint to dry and cure like a regular wax.

I think roushstage2 said everything we wrote but did it in one sentence.



I need to learn how to become a shorty copy writer...

[roushstage2]

Re: How to use #66 - Quick Detailer?

I think roushstage2 said everything we wrote but did it in one sentence.



I need to learn how to become a shorty copy writer...

Ha! I try to keep it short and simple, it doesn't always work though.

[yalerd]

Re: How to use #66 - Quick Detailer?

See the point? For daily drivers and "Joe Consumer", you don't want to be trying to do Show Car Detailing, but instead Production Detailing and that's just getting the paint clean which will result in a clear and glossy clear coat with good shine.

, nailed it Mike

[dnoraker]

Re: How to use #66 - Quick Detailer?

Glad I checked this thread before starting a new one...

The above procedures look great for the DA, which I have and love, but what if I want to get it done quicker and use the rotary? I've used the rotary with #66 and a 9006 pad a couple times with great results, but maybe it was by accident, as I'm not sure of proper technique. I treated it like #80 for play time, though I maybe just made overlapping passes in one direction with a slow arm speed and then moved on to the next panel.

Here's what I would do without any input on #66, please correct me if I'm off!

PC - as described in this thread with 8006 pad and treating it like #80 in terms of speed; leave on or wipe of right away, depending on where I'm at

Rotary - 9006 pad for lighter cleaning, using it like #80, but maybe faster or with fewer passes
Rotary - 8006 pad if it needs a little stronger cleaning ability

I agree totally with Mike's comments about catering to the customer. Half of my clients have been selling their car and didn't want it to look like the neglected piece of junk that it was. Of the other half, maybe 10-20% really want a show car finish.

As with any business, we must balance serving the customer with the level of quality we're willing to put our seal of approval on. I'm hesitant to take the jobs where they say "just wax it up" because then they go show their friends and tell them about their "detail" job they got and now that's your business in a nutshell to those people: "just wax it up!" If my customer doesn't say "it didn't look that good on the showroom floor!" or something of that nature, that doesn't meet my standards.

I start any job by asking the customer "what is important to you?" and make sure that area is of the utmost perfection. Everything else I achieve a base-level high standard. I ALWAYS clay the exterior, for instance, and apply either a cleaner wax if it needs a little swirl removal, or #21 Synthetic Sealant. things like polishing the lenses, applying Trim Detailer and such is more of an extra unless they're in really bad shape.

I also "upsell" because most people don't understand what a detail job is. If they say "oh, just wax it up nice" I will explain to them the swirl removal process, and other things I can do beyond what they'll get at the local detailing center. Or "well, just wipe up the leather nice and that should be good enough"- I ask them if the leather has ever been deep cleaned and conditioned and if not, they need to have that done because they will be shocked at the difference.