#3 vs. #5 vs. #7

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #3 vs. #5 vs. #7

***Bump***

[Accumulator]

Re: #3 vs. #5 vs. #7

Mike- heh heh, nice to see this thread get bumped. I haven't been posting here much lately but I'm still using my #5 on repaints while they cure.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #3 vs. #5 vs. #7

Yeah we were looking for pictures and information already typed up on pure polishes and found this one. Our browser was freezing up and I didn't want to re-search for this thread and another similar thread so I bumped them and crossed my fingers IE wouldn't crash altogether.

I lost my post, but the threads bumped through... can't win them all...

[Accumulator]

Re: #3 vs. #5 vs. #7

Heh heh, OK, I see. BTW, IMO Meguiar's oughta somehow give #5 more attention...I'd sure hate for it to get discontinued due to lack of interest (so stir up some interest ).

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #3 vs. #5 vs. #7

Heh heh, OK, I see. BTW, IMO Meguiar's oughta somehow give #5 more attention...I'd sure hate for it to get discontinued due to lack of interest (so stir up some interest ).

We'll work on this.

[Lydia]

Re: #3 vs. #5 vs. #7

I've never even heard of #5 before this thread, so you already stirred up some interest. I think I'd like to try it; there is just something reassuring about letting the product dry on the paint. It makes me think a coating will stay on there once I wipe off the excess, more so than a wipe on-wipe off product.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #3 vs. #5 vs. #7

there is just something reassuring about letting the product dry on the paint. It makes me think a coating will stay on there once I wipe off the excess, more so than a wipe on-wipe off product.

Just to point out, you don't actually let the product dry before youu wipe it off, in most cases it dries before you have a chance to wipe it off.

There's a difference there.

[jpitt1987]

Re: #3 vs. #5 vs. #7

I am just getting into this. I recently bought the Deep Crystal Polish, but to be honest it didn't seem to make a whole lot of difference. Most likely me and not the product. I used it after washing the car thoroughly with a microfiber mit and black magic wash, and used the Deep Crystal cleaner, applying it with a terry applicator pad. This leads me to ask this question:

*Are all of these producst able to be used on a machine?
*Also, what type of applicator is recommended?

I was using a random orbital with a foam pad, and like I said, I didn't see too much of a difference.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

-Jon

[Murr1525]

Re: #3 vs. #5 vs. #7

What were you working on?
What color were you working on?
How old, what condition?

[jpitt1987]

Re: #3 vs. #5 vs. #7

Timely response!

I was working on my 1996 dark maroon 240sx. The roof and trunk were heavily oxidized, I purchased the car with this damage. In fact parts of the clear on the roof have come off. The sides of the vehicle are in good condition: a few scratches and no oxi. My hood is a CF hood that just got re-cleared not too long ago.

The DC cleaner worked really well! I forgot to mention this, but I tried using the DC cleaner with a foam and even a terry and it didn't work too well. Much of the oxi remained. I then used a wool with the cleaner and it took it right off. I followed it with a clean foam with the polish and it didn't seem to make it any glossier.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #3 vs. #5 vs. #7

Timely response!

I was working on my 1996 dark maroon 240sx. The roof and trunk were heavily oxidized,


In fact parts of the clear on the roof have come off.

Click the link below and look at the pictures, look to see if any of the pictures look like the areas on your car you keep calling oxidation and let us know if there's a match.

The Clearcoat Failure Archive

Oxidation and Clear Coat Failure are two completely different things. You can fix oxidation in most cases, you can't fix clear coat failure. You have to repaint the car.

[jpitt1987]

Re: #3 vs. #5 vs. #7

Thank you for that link. Yes, parts of the car experienced CC failure, and I knew that was unable to be fixed topically. However, parts of the roof were oxidized and the entire trunk lid was.

[ClassicConcepts]

Re: #3 vs. #5 vs. #7

Is any of this info available in a book yet?

[3Fitty]

Re: #3 vs. #5 vs. #7

The movie is due out labor day weekend... sure to be a block buster!!!

[rusty bumper]

Re: #3 vs. #5 vs. #7

The only pure polish I usually let dry is #5, which comes off easily.

I'm one of the guys 2HotFord was referring to about using #3 by hand, works fine and I like it better than #7 on b/c.

#5 is incredibly user-friendly and is my choice for fresh repaints, but it doesn't look quite as rich as the others. Still, it's the pure polish I use more often than any other.

Note to self...

Buy a bottle of #5.