#105 vs. #95

[Justin Murphy]

I need to know the differences between these two so I can decide which to buy. The have almost identical labels and discriptions.

Please........

Thanks.

[Gemini13]

Re: #105 vs. #95

http://forumarchive.meguiars.com/forums/permalink/47119/48120/ShowThread.aspx#48120

[Tim Lingor]

Re: #105 vs. #95

I need to know the differences between these two so I can decide which to buy. The have almost identical labels and discriptions.

Please........

Thanks.

Meguiar's M105 is the high-Tech of the two, and tends to finish down much finer, leaving a better finish. The M95 is more for the old school guys that want an excellent compound but at a lower cost, but it does not finish down as fine as the M105.

Tim

[poyo]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Great! I'd rather pay a bit more.

Can anyone who have tested M105, tell us how fast it works? In terms of cleaning / levelling clearcoat / paint. A Net pal of mine, who loves polishing too, have been telling me a lot about Scholl Concepts products. Apparently the compounds from this co. works very fast, about a minute is enough for around 2" x 2".

But if M105 works the same, or better with the same or shorter time, I'll go the MG route anytime. Having a local distributor here helps too! Sadly, they told me, the earliest is March 2008, and worst case scenario.... June 2008! Argh! We got UQD about a month or so after it was launched. But M21 16oz, we got it about half a year after launching...

Apparently...they told me shipping to Malaysia is controlled by MG US...oh I don't know. Or is it because our local importer is a bit lazy...

Sorry for the rant. Mod can edit my post... I'm just so sad because ADS already have these products i stock....

Meguiar's M105 is the high-Tech of the two, and tends to finish down much finer, leaving a better finish. The M95 is more for the old school guys that want an excellent compound but at a lower cost, but it does not finish down as fine as the M105.

Tim

[Justin Murphy]

Re: #105 vs. #95

I see that ADS has this available TODAY!!!

30.00 for a quart sounds like a deal. Especially when I've been paying 50.00+ for Menzerna.

[Justin Murphy]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Meguiar's M105 is the high-Tech of the two, and tends to finish down much finer, leaving a better finish. The M95 is more for the old school guys that want an excellent compound but at a lower cost, but it does not finish down as fine as the M105.

Tim

So.......
105 can be used from start to finish. Just maybe change out the pads and you're set?

This is too good to be true.
LOL!

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Great! I'd rather pay a bit more.

Can anyone who have tested M105, tell us how fast it works? In terms of cleaning / leveling clearcoat / paint.

A Net pal of mine, who loves polishing too, have been telling me a lot about Scholl Concepts products. Apparently the compounds from this co. works very fast, about a minute is enough for around 2" x 2".

Just to point out, it's real easy to make an aggressive and fast cutting compound, heck we have these in our Mold Release Line for removing #600 grit sanding marks out of epoxy molds, if used on an automotive finish it would level the paint off the car right down to bare metal.

So there's more to making a good compound than adding some aggressive, fast cutting abrasives to some kind of carrying-agent. Remember, for most of us the goal is always more than working fast, it's about creating a masterpiece, that's where polishing paint becomes an art form. M105 cuts fast and then polishes out leaving a very nice finish. It will still need at least a second polishing step to remove swirls instilled by the rotary buffer, (anything rotating on the surface of paint is always likely to leave circular scratches that show up as buffer swirls or holograms in good lighting), and your cutting pad.

I've only used the M105 on the Joker Hood, this was cured paint, not fresh and not soft. We finished the hood with the Abralon #4000 grit foam sanding pads and used the M105 with a wool cutting pad to remove the sanding marks. It took two applications of product for each section we buffed to completely remove all sanding marks, not just make the paint shiny again. (There's a huge difference).

As always the best thing for people to do is to test our product against whatever product they're currently using or thinking of going with and make up your own mind based upon your real-world experience actually using both products.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #105 vs. #95

So.......
105 can be used from start to finish. Just maybe change out the pads and you're set?

Depends upon who you are and what your goals are. Remember,

This is a product primarily made for?

(This is a test, see if you can answer the question correctly)


Body shops don't normally shoot for the kind of results the people on this forum and forums like MOL are always talking about. Body shops, for the most part are "Production Shops", the goal is to paint the car and not have to buff it at all. If the car has to be buffed these guys want a cutting compound that will remove the sanding marks quickly and look good enough kick out the door. These criteria do not equal the criteria of the people that hang out on a forum like this.

See the difference?

Is it a great product? You bet it is. For absolute swirl free results does M105 need to be followed with secondary polishing steps? Yes, if you want swirl free results in any kind of lighting conditions.

[RaskyR1]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Depends upon who you are and what your goals are. Remember,

This is a product primarily made for?

(This is a test, see if you can answer the question correctly)

Body Shops? For removing wet-sanding scratches...

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Before - Machine sanded with the Mirka Abralon System, first with #1000, then #2000, and finishing with #4000


After - This is just the M105 Compound using a wool cutting pad, not other polishing done to the paint at the time this photo was taken.



Not bad for an AGGRESSIVE CUTTING COMPOUND and a WOOL CUTTING PAD

[Kevin Brown]

Re: #105 vs. #95

We test, test, test....




So you get the best, best, BEST!


I finished this car with M105, G100 orbital, & a W9006... WOW!
Topped with M81 Hand Polish and M16 Paste Wax.

[Sydster]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Can't wait to get hold of a gallon of M105!

[poyo]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Thank you for your clarification sir. Understand M105 will need a softer polish afterwards ( but with a rotary or a DA / ROB? ).

Just to point out, it's real easy to make an aggressive and fast cutting compound, heck we have these in our Mold Release Line for removing #600 grit sanding marks out of epoxy molds, if used on an automotive finish it would level the paint off the car right down to bare metal.

So there's more to making a good compound than adding some aggressive, fast cutting abrasives to some kind of carrying-agent. Remember, for most of us the goal is always more than working fast, it's about creating a masterpiece, that's where polishing paint becomes an art form. M105 cuts fast and then polishes out leaving a very nice finish. It will still need at least a second polishing step to remove swirls instilled by the rotary buffer, (anything rotating on the surface of paint is always likely to leave circular scratches that show up as buffer swirls or holograms in good lighting), and your cutting pad.

I've only used the M105 on the Joker Hood, this was cured paint, not fresh and not soft. We finished the hood with the Abralon #4000 grit foam sanding pads and used the M105 with a wool cutting pad to remove the sanding marks. It took two applications of product for each section we buffed to completely remove all sanding marks, not just make the paint shiny again. (There's a huge difference).

As always the best thing for people to do is to test our product against whatever product they're currently using or thinking of going with and make up your own mind based upon your real-world experience actually using both products.

Depends upon who you are and what your goals are. Remember,

This is a product primarily made for?

(This is a test, see if you can answer the question correctly)

Body shops don't normally shoot for the kind of results the people on this forum and forums like MOL are always talking about. Body shops, for the most part are "Production Shops", the goal is to paint the car and not have to buff it at all. If the car has to be buffed these guys want a cutting compound that will remove the sanding marks quickly and look good enough kick out the door. These criteria do not equal the criteria of the people that hang out on a forum like this.

See the difference?

Is it a great product? You bet it is. For absolute swirl free results does M105 need to be followed with secondary polishing steps? Yes, if you want swirl free results in any kind of lighting conditions.

How long did you had to work in the M105 + rotary to finsih up the front bonnet up to the 2nd pic?

Before - Machine sanded with the Mirka Abralon System, first with #1000, then #2000, and finishing with #4000


After - This is just the M105 Compound using a wool cutting pad, not other polishing done to the paint at the time this photo was taken.


Not bad for an AGGRESSIVE CUTTING COMPOUND and a WOOL CUTTING PAD

Again, mind telling us how long M105 took to finish this front bonnet, up to bfr the 2nd milder polishing step ( M80 )?

We test, test, test....


So you get the best, best, BEST!


I finished this car with M105, G100 orbital, & a W9006... WOW!
Topped with M80 Hand Polish and M16 Paste Wax.

[Kevin Brown]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Meguiar's DOES NOT RECOMMEND M105 for use with a random-orbital machine.

Although it is NOT recommended for use with a random-orbital, I had much success using M105, a G100, and a W9006 tan pad, on this particular car.

As a professional (I've been detailing for well over twenty years, and used Meguiar's for over thirty years.), if I decide to use a product in a manner that goes against the recommendation set forth by Meguiar's, I realize that any detrimental effects of doing so are ENTIRELY MY RESPONSIBILITY.

It's my belief that anyone using the PROFESSIONAL Mirror Glaze line of Meguiar's products should be an enthusiast of car care, and as such, have a grasp on the philosophy that paint-systems can react differently to similar products and processes.

M105 requires a very specific application technique to realize results worthy of a final-polish. I'd rather not post the specifics, as I do not wish to circumvent the recommendations of Meguiar's.

My suggestion to that anyone interested in M105 is to first use it as intended- That is, applied via hand and/or rotary application. Once you've experienced it firsthand, you'll be better educated on its abilities.

You will love its flexibility.

FYI- I DID NOT follow up with any other machine-applied polish.
I DID use M81 Hand Polish, however, as I feel that it leaves the paint as clean and fresh as it will ever get before applying a wax.

The moment paint is exposed to air, it immediately starts to degrade. The oils in Hand Polish remove any fresh oxidation, leave a micro-fine coating of protection until a wax or polymer is applied.

[poyo]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Thank you for more insight on M105 sir, it is greatly appreciated. Hand application!!! How is the cut compared to Scratch X? Much faster?

This makes me more and more impatient to get M105!

Meguiar's DOES NOT RECOMMEND M105 for use with a random-orbital machine.

Although it is NOT recommended for use with a random-orbital, I had much success using M105, a G100, and a W9006 tan pad, on this particular car.

As a professional (I've been detailing for well over twenty years, and used Meguiar's for over thirty years.), if I decide to use a product in a manner that goes against the recommendation set forth by Meguiar's, I realize that any detrimental effects of doing so are ENTIRELY MY RESPONSIBILITY.

It's my belief that anyone using the PROFESSIONAL Mirror Glaze line of Meguiar's products should be an enthusiast of car care, and as such, have a grasp on the philosophy that paint-systems can react differently to similar products and processes.

M105 requires a very specific application technique to realize results worthy of a final-polish. I'd rather not post the specifics, as I do not wish to circumvent the recommendations of Meguiar's.

My suggestion to that anyone interested in M105 is to first use it as intended- That is, applied via hand and/or rotary application. Once you've experienced it firsthand, you'll be better educated on its abilities.

You will love its flexibility.

FYI- I DID NOT follow up with any other machine-applied polish.
I DID use M81 Hand Polish, however, as I feel that it leaves the paint as clean and fresh as it will ever get before applying a wax.

The moment paint is exposed to air, it immediately starts to degrade. The oils in Hand Polish remove any fresh oxidation, leave a micro-fine coating of protection until a wax or polymer is applied.