Ultimate Compound

[bee0818]

Re: Ultimate Compound

Thanks for the responses. My working area was a bit larger, probably 2' x 2'.

[FRS]

Re: Ultimate Compound

[davey g-force]

Re: Ultimate Compound

I didn't put much pressure, so the pad was definitely spinning. Would more pressure help? I was also moving pretty slow and tried to let the pc and compound really work. I made a number of passes but just couldn't get much correction.

Yes, try more pressure, but not to the point where the pad stops spinning.

What size area were you working on at a time? You really want to reduce your working area to about 1ft x 1ft.

[davey g-force]

Re: Ultimate Compound

I believe that vibrating only can produce stunning results, let alone spinning ..

Yeah but it depends on the paint you're working on.

If he is not achieving the desired correction, a spinning pad will definitely help.

[FRS]

Re: Ultimate Compound

^^ How much pressure were you applying?
Are you certain the PC was actually spinning and not just vibrating on the spot?
How fast were you moving? You need to slow your arm speed right down and use patience when correcting defects.

I believe that vibrating only can produce stunning results, let alone spinning ..

[bee0818]

Re: Ultimate Compound

^^ How much pressure were you applying?
Are you certain the PC was actually spinning and not just vibrating on the spot?
How fast were you moving? You need to slow your arm speed right down and use patience when correcting defects.

I didn't put much pressure, so the pad was definitely spinning. Would more pressure help? I was also moving pretty slow and tried to let the pc and compound really work. I made a number of passes but just couldn't get much correction.

[davey g-force]

Re: Ultimate Compound

^^ How much pressure were you applying?
Are you certain the PC was actually spinning and not just vibrating on the spot?
How fast were you moving? You need to slow your arm speed right down and use patience when correcting defects.

[bee0818]

Re: Ultimate Compound

Looking for some help:

I finally opened up a PC 7336 I ordered years ago to work on a 2007 jet black BMW X5 we purchased a few months ago. The cars paint was in decent condition with the usual swirl marks from improper washing. I washed and clayed the car. I purchased swirlx, scratchx and UC so I would have all my bases covered. I was anticipating only needing the swirlx but once I got started, it didn't do much. Attempted a second pass but same result. I was using an orange polishing pad from griots. I then moved up to the UC, but really didn't get much improvement. It seemed to take out the water spots and clean the paint a bit, but the swirls pretty much stayed untouched. I was using the PC at 5 and really working the compound. Based on the reviews in this thread, it seems as if there is some user error going on. Am I not using an aggressive enough pad? Am I not getting much in the way of results due to the paint hardness or thickness?

Thanks in advance for any help.

[rusty bumper]

Re: Ultimate Compound

Yeah, I hope I didn't sound too down on it.

It's just, I find it a challenge enough with a DA polisher. In fact, I never do my entire car in one session. I do the front one week, and the back another week.

I can't imagine hand work of an entire vehicle besides the fun detailing like pure polish and wax.

Plus, on some cars, it might be nearly impossible depending on the paint and the defects needing removal as you mentioned.


If working only by hand, besides specific areas that might need particular attention, I always tended to just stick with claying, maybe some #7 to hide things a bit, and a nice sealant/wax. This still results in a car looking better than 99 percent of them out there, probably 99.9 percent.

That's me in a nutshell.

I like to take my time anyway and do it right.

[mb911]

Re: Ultimate Compound

It can be done, but I'm not sure if I have the patience for it...or the arm, lol.

Some scratches need professional help via a rotary buffer.

Yeah, I hope I didn't sound too down on it.

It's just, I find it a challenge enough with a DA polisher. In fact, I never do my entire car in one session. I do the front one week, and the back another week.

I can't imagine hand work of an entire vehicle besides the fun detailing like pure polish and wax.

Plus, on some cars, it might be nearly impossible depending on the paint and the defects needing removal as you mentioned.


If working only by hand, besides specific areas that might need particular attention, I always tended to just stick with claying, maybe some #7 to hide things a bit, and a nice sealant/wax. This still results in a car looking better than 99 percent of them out there, probably 99.9 percent.

[rusty bumper]

Re: Ultimate Compound

watson -

Removing an entire car's defects by hand is a daunting process. I would never attempt it. You worked incredibly hard, and yet you are still disappointed by the results, this is why I would not attempt this.

Furthermore, one thing you can do, is do a "test spot," say a 12-inch square, back the car into the sun and see if improved the appearance, to know if your techniques and products are working.

However, again, I personally wouldn't attempt to remove an entire vehicle's swirls by hand, it's hard enough for me with a DA.

It can be done, but I'm not sure if I have the patience for it...or the arm, lol.

Some scratches need professional help via a rotary buffer.

[mb911]

Re: Ultimate Compound

watson -

Removing an entire car's defects by hand is a daunting process. I would never attempt it. You worked incredibly hard, and yet you are still disappointed by the results, this is why I would not attempt this.

Furthermore, one thing you can do, is do a "test spot," say a 12-inch square, back the car into the sun and see if improved the appearance, to know if your techniques and products are working.

However, again, I personally wouldn't attempt to remove an entire vehicle's swirls by hand, it's hard enough for me with a DA.

[watson379]

Re: Ultimate Compound

My car had few light scratch like swirl marks. There was still a great reflection and could barely notice these scratches. But, I’m planning on selling my car so I wanted to do a complete detail. After a good Wash and Claying, I tried Swirl X first and it was not getting them out no matter what I tried. So, I stepped up to Ultimate Compound. I did it by hand and worked on it all day long. It seemed to be working and got most of the Scratches out! I was happy it looked great!<?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:shapetype id=_x0000_t75 stroked="f" filled="f" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" o:preferrelative="t" o:spt="75" coordsize="21600,21600"> </v:shapetype> But, later when I grabbed a powerful flashlight for something I decided to shine it on my car. What I seen were Billions of tiny Swirl marks that destroyed the look of my car! I was not happy. So I stopped what I was doing and tried Swirl X and Scratch X Nothing! What happened? As far as I know I did everything the way I was supposed to. What can I do? I’m afraid to take my car outside into the sun. I might faint!

Please help. Thank you<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" /><o:p></o:p>

[VR6]

Re: Ultimate Compound

Used ultimate compound on my 13 year old car, wow. The paint looks great, just like it was new. UC and ColorX really work wonders.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Ultimate Compound

You never want to go to a dry buff, that's correct. What you're used to seeing with M80 will pretty much be the same with UC, except that what's actually happening within the product is different.

If you want some before/after shots of UC on black paint, just look through the last several Pictures from Saturday Classes and that's all you'll see - UC on black paint.