A few unanswered ?'s

[LFD2037]

I've searched & not found the answers I need pertaining to waxing a 2 yo fiberglass RV that has very light oxidation but is dull, so here it goes. I'm using a PC7424, #50 & finishing pads. Using speed #4.

1. How long after I've done the 'four passes' do I wait to wipe the wax off?
2. What speed should I be running the PC at?
3. I seem to be getting 'splotching' or 'streaking' of the wax. What is most likely the thing I'm doing wrong(ie. too hot of surface, too much wax, not enough wax)?
4. How often should I reapply product to pad & how much after pad is 'primed'?
5. When should I switch to a clean pad(ie. 10 sq. ft., when it's completely saturated)?

Great site & very informative. I appreciate any input!

[Mike Phillips]

Re: A few unanswered ?'s

M50 is a strong cleaner/wax which is what you want for oxidized Fiberglas gel-coats, however you want a more aggressive pad like a polishing pad or even a cutting pad and you want to run the polisher on the 5.0 speed setting.

Hang on for some more info...

[Mike Phillips]

Re: A few unanswered ?'s

I've searched & not found the answers I need pertaining to waxing a 2 yo fiberglass RV that has very light oxidation but is dull, so here it goes. I'm using a PC7424, #50 & finishing pads. Using speed #4.

1. How long after I've done the 'four passes' do I wait to wipe the wax off?

You always allow a wax, even a cleaner/wax to fully dry before removing.

If the finish is oxidized then you need to abrade of the dead/oxidized gel-coat to uncover a fresh base, this means focusing on small sections at a time, constantly using overlapping passes and when you move on to a new section be sure to overlap into the previous section.

Usually you want to use your product more on the heavy or wet side than the skimpy side as the dry, oxidized gel-coat will tend to absorb some of the liquid cleaner/wax.

You are using liquid M50 correct? M50 also comes in a paste version but for use by machine a liquid will work better especially for removing oxidation.

2. What speed should I be running the PC at?

5.0 for any cleaning work. 4.0 and lower is too slow.

3. I seem to be getting 'splotching' or 'streaking' of the wax. What is most likely the thing I'm doing wrong(ie. too hot of surface, too much wax, not enough wax)?

Too slow of a speed and probably not cleaning or removing material in an even way which comes back to the speed setting and the finishing pad which is too gentle for what you want to do.

4. How often should I reapply product to pad & how much after pad is 'primed'?

You should be working an area about 18" to 20" square or so, a foot square is too small and 2' for oxidized gel-coat with a tool that has a clutch is a little to large.

You also need to be pushing down on the head of the unit as hard as you can but still keep the pad rotating. It's vital you hold the pad flat to the surface as tilting it will stop the rotating action.

5. When should I switch to a clean pad(ie. 10 sq. ft., when it's completely saturated)?

As your pad becomes wet or saturated with product it will tend to not want to rotate as well as the wet foam will absorb and dissipate the energy from the polisher.

You'll see rotating ability instantly restored by switching to a dry pad, that's how you can tell it's the wet foam causing the problem.

If you clean your pad on the fly this will pull some of the wetness out of the pad along with the spent product and oxidized gel-coat so you can use a pad longer.

Hang on...

[Mike Phillips]

Re: A few unanswered ?'s

We don't recommend our foam cutting pads for use with DA Polishers on clear coat paints as they will tend to haze the clear coat but they work really well on oxidized gel-coats.

You can also use our yellow polishing pads since you say the oxidation is light and they will work better than a finishing pad which is just to soft and gentle for what you want to do.

W-8006 Foam Polishing Pad



W-7006 Foam Cutting Pad

[Mike Phillips]

Re: A few unanswered ?'s

Cleaning Your Pad On The Fly

The question often comes up,
How do I clean my buffing pads?

Or more specifically,

How do I clean my buffing pads after they become wet or saturated with the product I'm working with?


One way is to do what we call, Cleaning your pad on the fly. This means to take and hold a clean, soft, dry terry cloth towel, hopefully a towel with a thick nap, (the little cotton loops), against the face of the pad while it's still on your polisher and then with your hand that's holding the polisher, use your finger to turn the polisher on and then move the towel around and against the face of the foam pad. This will act to cause the excess product built-up in the foam pad to move out of the pad and saturate into the terry cloth towel. Then you can place the towel down and get back to working on your car.

This is called cleaning your pad on the fly because it's quick and simple and fairly effective for what you're trying to do.


Here's Cisco from one of our recent Saturday Detailing Classes learning how to clean a pad on the fly



Mike Stoops Cleaning a pad on the fly



As you clean your pad you'll see residue build-up on the towel.



Clean your pad often
Besides knowing how to clean your pad on the fly you also need to remember to clean your pad often, usually after every other application of product to the pad. That is, apply some product to your pad and work it to a section. Wipe off the spent residue and either re-clean the area or move onto a new area. After a second application of product to the pad and after you've worked it to a section, now clean your pad. This is cleaning your pad every other application of product to the pad. You can clean your pad after every application if you like too. Most people don't clean their pads often enough, so err on the side of caution. Cleaning your pad often maximizes your effectiveness and thus your speed and quality of end result.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: A few unanswered ?'s

If you haven't read through this yet, give it a read as it will help to tweak your technique for optimum results when working with a DA Polisher.

How To use: G110 - G220 - G100 - PC/Porter Cable - UDM
If you're moving up to machine polishing, be sure to read the below thread before starting...
Tips & Techniques for using the G110, G100, G220 and the PC Dual Action Polisher
(These are all similar tools)

[Mike Phillips]

Re: A few unanswered ?'s

Oh yeah... since this was your first post...

Welcome to Meguiar's Online!

[Carfire]

Re: A few unanswered ?'s

Welcome to Meguiars Online!!
What Mike Said Should Help You!!

[Tuck91]

Re: A few unanswered ?'s

Welcome to MOL

[LFD2037]

Re: A few unanswered ?'s

GREAT INFO!! After further observation, I am indeed using a polishing pad. The oxidation is very, very light. I did read the 'how to' on the DA's & I have been 'cleaning on the fly"!!! I think my biggest problems are: too slow of speed & I'm wiping off the wax the second I pull the DA off the surface. Should the surface stay moist w/wax while I'm buffing & not start to dry 'till I'm done w/my 'passes' or should I buff until the wax becomes dry & then continue to let it harden for 10 min.? Thanks for the warm welcomes & ya'll have already been extremely helpful.

[Zach W.]

Re: A few unanswered ?'s

LFD,
I am not an expert by any means, but by my past experience on a 30ft WW with M50 I will give you my two cents. I used a rotary with a couple of finishing pads (probably part of the reason I had problems)
First off, it is a great product. After saying that, when I first used it, I had problems. But, I wasn't working the product enough. I went back over with a little more product, and worked alot longer (until it started to dry/haze). It was then harder to wipe off, but the finish was exceptional.

The next time I used M50, on a 21ft mini-wini, I used a cutting pad (non megs), with great results. It worked faster, and with a better outcome.

So to answer your question, I would work the product in until it is almost not even there any more. But thats just what has worked for me in the past.

[Jeepster04]

Re: A few unanswered ?'s

GREAT INFO!! After further observation, I am indeed using a polishing pad. The oxidation is very, very light. I did read the 'how to' on the DA's & I have been 'cleaning on the fly"!!! I think my biggest problems are: too slow of speed & I'm wiping off the wax the second I pull the DA off the surface. Should the surface stay moist w/wax while I'm buffing & not start to dry 'till I'm done w/my 'passes' or should I buff until the wax becomes dry & then continue to let it harden for 10 min.? Thanks for the warm welcomes & ya'll have already been extremely helpful.

You should only apply the wax with the buffer than allow it to haze. Do not actually 'buff' the wax.

Never Dry buff.

[LFD2037]

Re: A few unanswered ?'s

After putting together all of yall's tips, I went out & have been performing a perfect job on my fifth wheel. I tend to overthink & overanalyze things. I think that was my downside here. Once I got started, everything came together. I can see how every job can be different on how much pressure to apply, how much product to apply, how many passes to use, & on & on. My advise to others that are in the lost position I was in is JUST DO IT! It may take a little while but you will be able to dial in exactly what you need to do for your specific situation. I hope this helps someone!