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Re: 1986 Chevy Caprice Classic...just getting started
As the commercials say, your mileage may vary. The lighter metallic colors, such as silver, gold & light blue may not respond as well as the darker colors. They were a real PIA to keep glossy when new (I'm old enough to have been there) and even tougher when aged, especially the horizontal surfaces. An important first step is multiple apps of M07. After an overnight soak and 3-4 additional apps, you'll be able to tell just by feel that the paint has been well saturated with the oils in M07, as it will become easier and easier to rub. M80 is a great product for the next step, but it's not the only choice. You can do some test spots with a more aggressive product and see how it goes. Saturating the paint with M07 first will make your compounding easier, as the paint won't pull all the moisture out of the compound, avoiding the caked up pads and horrible dusting you'd have if your first step was machine compounding. Then, follow up with M80 as a swirl remover and a final feeding with polishing oil before your LSP. As an example, here's another shot of my Camino. The burgundy areas shined up much better than the silver, but they weren't as bad as the silver when I began. I've resisted the temptation to hit the roof with something like M105 or UC, since I already tried a number of aggressive compounds to no avail prior to learning the M07 process, so I'm a bit concerned about the thickness of the remaining paint.
Bill
As the commercials say, your mileage may vary. The lighter metallic colors, such as silver, gold & light blue may not respond as well as the darker colors. They were a real PIA to keep glossy when new (I'm old enough to have been there) and even tougher when aged, especially the horizontal surfaces. An important first step is multiple apps of M07. After an overnight soak and 3-4 additional apps, you'll be able to tell just by feel that the paint has been well saturated with the oils in M07, as it will become easier and easier to rub. M80 is a great product for the next step, but it's not the only choice. You can do some test spots with a more aggressive product and see how it goes. Saturating the paint with M07 first will make your compounding easier, as the paint won't pull all the moisture out of the compound, avoiding the caked up pads and horrible dusting you'd have if your first step was machine compounding. Then, follow up with M80 as a swirl remover and a final feeding with polishing oil before your LSP. As an example, here's another shot of my Camino. The burgundy areas shined up much better than the silver, but they weren't as bad as the silver when I began. I've resisted the temptation to hit the roof with something like M105 or UC, since I already tried a number of aggressive compounds to no avail prior to learning the M07 process, so I'm a bit concerned about the thickness of the remaining paint.
Bill
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