If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Well I am on my 3rd coat on the body of my 89 Chevy Blazer, The prep was the most work to date... Sanding off the old flaking paint off and primer off. I will post a few pics. I am using gloss black 75/25 mineral Spirits. I put it on thick so wet sanding with 600 for orange peel and minor runs. I waited a full 24 hours before wet sanding, then wiped with Mineral Spirits, waited 6 more hours then tack cloth and apply another coat. I am going to do the next coats 50/50 so the drying time is faster and try to cut down on the orange peel.
I will post more as I go.. I mixed it wayyyy too thick and it took a while to dry enough to wet sand after the 2nd coat... But it looks great so far.
Last edited by Seattle98122; Aug 30, 2011, 08:09 AM.
Reason: fixed my typoopoo's
I painted the hood on my Chevy Silverado with the same Gloss Black. I read through all of the pages on this thread and noticed you stated it as a "10-footer". Which is what mine sort of seems to be. The hood looks flawless from 5 feet away, but when you look at it very closely you can still see very fine scratches all over the hood. I was wondering if your having the same problem as me, and if this was the reason why you call it a 10 footer. In pictures it looks very good, and even in person. But just that fact that I know the scratches are there bugs the you know what out of me. My other question is, since I'm a noob detailer, I'm sort of hoping I'm doing something wrong as far as the wet sanding and rubbing/polishing goes. The scratches weren't there after the paint, they came up after the 2000 grit wetsanding. (which I found awkward) Before the wetsanding, the paint was perfectly smooth with no scratches, just seemed very dull. My steps are as follows
After painting, I let the hood sit in the sun for about a week.
I then wet sanded with 2000 grit.
Cleaned and dried the whole hood.
And unfortunately I didn't have my polisher with me (forgot I'd lent it to a friend) I ended up using a 10" orbital buffer with "Meguiar's Ultimate Compound"
The paint's gloss came back even shinier but I could see a LOT of scratches so I figured I'd Rub it once more, but yet the scratches remained.
I got done doing the whole hood and although it looks great from far (about as close as 5ft) when you really look at it, you'll see scratches
So being most of you guys know far more then I do about detailing, could it be that since the Orbital buffer isn't as strong as a Polisher (RPM's wise) I was able to restore shine, but not strong enough to remove the scratches?
Or is it normal for rubbing compound to leave plenty of scratches, which then must be followed by polishing? (Which I haven't done)
I'd greatly appreciate someone taking the time to read and respond to my post
And unfortunately I didn't have my polisher with me (forgot I'd lent it to a friend) I ended up using a 10" orbital buffer with "Meguiar's Ultimate Compound"
The paint's gloss came back even shinier but I could see a LOT of scratches so I figured I'd Rub it once more, but yet the scratches remained.
Mystery solved! An orbital buffer is absolutely, positively not suitable for removing sanding marks like that. In fact, Ultimate Compound isn't technically rated for it either, although many have made it work.
Ideally, you will want to use M105 and either a rotary (if you know how) or a dual-action buffer. They can and should come out, but you need more aggressive products and tools.
Thank you very much for the reply. I had a feeling that was the problem, but I wasn't completely sure. Earlier today I went ahead and tackled it with a rotary and some of Meguiars Ultimate Polish, followed by a coat of Meguiars NXT Wax. All I can say is, I'm very impressed. Even though the scratches are still there, they are barely visible. You have to look very closely to notice the scratches. The hood was sort of just a test panel, now my next move is to try rubbing with a rotary.
What is M105? I'm assuming a part number for rubbing compound?
Hi Folks, it's been a while so I thought I'd post the latest pictures. I actually sold this car about 6 months ago. Here are the pictures I took at that time.
I ran a silver tape stripe down the side to separate the green from the black:
A few observations:
1. You MUST keep the paint clean! It will tend to waterspot fairly easily. If you let dirt accumulate on the paint, you will need to re-polish.
2. You MUST keep it waxed
3. You will need to polish a couple of times a year. My mustang lived outside in the elements (in Arizona no less) so it is probably on the extreme side of the care required. If you keep it garaged and clean it'll require a lot less maintenance.
Would I do it again? Definitely for a daily driver, but probably not black!
I own a silver vehicle and a black vehicle owns me. The black one demands attention, washing, detailing, waxing and an occasional dinner out at a nice restaurant. The silver one demands nothing and it looks just fine. I think the black vehicle is taking advantage of me, and the silver car is more my style. We can go out for a drive without her makeup and she looks fine. If I want to take the black one out, it is three or four hours in the "bathroom" to get ready.
My car met an accident few weeks back and I got it fully repaired with new spare's .But still my car have some black spots on the bumper,How it can be completely removed?
Comment