More working time with M105

[hemi]

M205 is a dream to work with !

M105 works great for corrections ,but dries too quick ! 2 passes then drying up.
What are you guys doing to give it more working time?

Spritz with water?
Adding small amount of mineral oil?
Priming pad then using a few drops of M105

I am using a sample bottle. Could this make a difference?

I like the idea of adding a little mineral oil to the pad . Any drawbacks to this?

[TLMitchell]

Re: More working time with M105

I like the idea of adding a little mineral oil to the pad . Any drawbacks to this?

I've seen naysayers to that technique cite dimished cut of the abrasives reducing it's effectiveness due to lubrication.

I've found a spritz of water extends working time. I've also seen threads here n there where someoneorother added a few drops of a long-working polish to extend working time. I'd think adding a few drops of 205 to a 105-primed pad might be worth trying.
Give it a shot and report back.

TL

[Michael Stoops]

Re: More working time with M105

Something else to consider here - how much product are you using? It is very common for people to overuse M105, especially on a D/A. A little bit goes a long way and using a smaller amount will help prevent it from gumming up on the surface.

That said, M105 was really designed more for fresh paint, or relatively new paint, used in conjunction with a rotary buffer and wool pad. If you're working on paint that is getting a bit dried out it may actually be drawing the moisture out of M105, causing it to dry up prematurely. Sometimes M105 isn't the right choice for a given project and with a D/A you may find Ultimate Compound to be a much better choice.

[hemi]

Re: More working time with M105

Thank you both for your suggestions. I will certainly give them a try!!

[Nyholm]

Re: More working time with M105

I had the same problem with M105 and also found out that it was easier to control using just a bit. Not perfect though, but the paint was also 5 years old and in bad shape!
I have ordered ultimate compund and I'm very exciting to see the difference.

[DRT BRD]

Re: More working time with M105

Something else to consider here - how much product are you using? It is very common for people to overuse M105, especially on a D/A. A little bit goes a long way and using a smaller amount will help prevent it from gumming up on the surface.

That said, M105 was really designed more for fresh paint, or relatively new paint, used in conjunction with a rotary buffer and wool pad. If you're working on paint that is getting a bit dried out it may actually be drawing the moisture out of M105, causing it to dry up prematurely. Sometimes M105 isn't the right choice for a given project and with a D/A you may find Ultimate Compound to be a much better choice.

I just ran into this issue on a 98 Camaro that had been shipped from Arizona. I tried, M105 with an orange CCS pad, and it didn't really even put a dent in it and dried up SUPER FAST. It wasn't a match for the purple hybrid foamed wool CCS pad. But I ended up correcting it down with a the MF cutting disk and a combination of M105 on some sections and D300 on others. Half of it had been repainted so that was the reason for the variation.

[rossi6998]

Re: More working time with M105

Hi Mike,

I like M105 followed with M205, but I too am having issues with M105 drying too quick. My car is only two years old, garaged, and is generally driven on weekends, so I don't think dry paint is the issue. You mentioned Ultimate Compound. If I were to switch to Ultimate Compound, I am assuming I would use the Ultimate Compound followed by M205, correct?

Thanks
John

[Murr1525]

Re: More working time with M105

Yeah, UC then #205 would be good.

However, if you car is that wekk cared for, we would have to ask why you need UC/#105? Lots of swirls already? Maybe need to look at other things as well, to prevent swirls in the future.

[rossi6998]

Re: More working time with M105

Always looking for that perfect shine... When I bought the car, the stupid dealership had the car parked next to a sprinkler system. YES, a black car parked next to a sprinkler system in sunny California. Need I say anymore.

[Yosheego]

Re: More working time with M105

What is the UC comparable to in the Pro line?

I'm in the process of doing some work on an black 08' Toyota Sequoia. (Lots of swirls and scratches from car washes =D)

I will order the G110v2 soon with C2100/#105/#205/#7 then #26. These are my planned steps.

[BillE]

Re: More working time with M105

Ultimate Compound = M-105

Ultimate Polish = M-205

There are NOT exact one for one replacements...but pretty darn close.

Bill

[Michael Stoops]

Re: More working time with M105

What is the UC comparable to in the Pro line?

I'm in the process of doing some work on an black 08' Toyota Sequoia. (Lots of swirls and scratches from car washes =D)

I will order the G110v2 soon with C2100/#105/#205/#7 then #26. These are my planned steps.

Do you have a less aggressive clay already? Do you know ahead of time that this vehicle needs such an aggressive clay? And do you know for sure that you need M105 to correct the paint, or that M105 is even the best product choice for this paint? We've seen some Toyotas of all sorts with fairly delicate paint that actually responded much better to Ultimate Compound.

The point we're trying to make here is that you can't preconceive a plan of attack on a first time vehicle because you don't know how that vehicle will respond to that input. If you plan for something and don't have anything to fall back on, you're potentially setting yourself up for failure. A general idea is great, but don't even lock yourself into something beforehand - there are just too many variables at play here.

[Yosheego]

Re: More working time with M105

Thank you. I went to Pep Boys and got myself the meguiar's clay kit (the white one), UC like u recommended, UP and #26.
Did a test spot by hand. Cleaned it/clayed it.
The UC took out most of the swirls but not scratches. I then did it again but it didnt work. I used moderate pressure and w/ 50% overlap. Did this twice and nada. Should
I keep on doing it? Or use something else?

[Michael Stoops]

Re: More working time with M105

When working by hand, technique is critical to maximize results. You need to work in small areas, no more than about 1' x 1', and you may need to work that area two or three times with some fairly heavy pressure to remove all defects. A lot of the defect removal ability is going to depend on how severe the defects are and how hard the paint is. The harder the paint and the worse the defect, the harder it is to remove. Now, when we say "fairly heavy pressure" we don't mean that you should scrub the paint. Keep the circular motion and the overlap, just don't be afraid to put some muscle into it.

[Yosheego]

Re: More working time with M105

okay, imma try it again and let you guys know the results.