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#105 Drying Too Fast
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Re: #105 Drying Too Fast
I'm having a battle with M105 drying too fast with my G100-8207 pad.....
Clean on the fly, cool temperatures, shady area and clayed area.....
M205 is a dream to use. You can apply it, eat lunch, finish working it and wipe off (not really but you get it)
Philippians 2:14 - Do all things without grumbling or questioning,
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Re: #105 Drying Too Fast
I think 99.9% of products is experience.
I use it all the time for paint, plastics, metals....
It's a good product, just need to learn it I guess.....
It was originally made for rotary use to remove sanding marks....
I use UC mostly then follow with M205 or SwirlX.
edit: I forgot to add that when using with the rotary and 8207 pads, it worked wonders and knocked out swirls on a Ford Explorer I was doing, I had very few problems of what I call Pad Puking.....
It's a good product.Philippians 2:14 - Do all things without grumbling or questioning,
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Re: #105 Drying Too Fast
I have had M105 drying on me be a problem before. The solution that I found was to use a good amount of product (not neccessarily more than should be used) and shrink down your work space. I know that for optimal results with the DA, you should do about a 12x12 area, but I tend to fudge it a little and go bigger with most products and just work it in a little longer. Unfortunately with M105 if you do that, it will start to dry out on you, so you have to shrink down the space.
I'm interested to see what some others have tried.
I once put swirls in my paint just to see what it looked like.
I don't always detail cars, but when I do, I prefer Meguiar's.
Remove swirls my friends.
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Re: #105 Drying Too Fast
Good point Andrew.....With my 6" pads, I would kiss an area the pad width making four areas in a square and kiss the middle and work that in....with my 2.0's, I would do the same and thus the area larger with a bigger pad.....
I'll shrink the area back down and try it again. I know the stuff works, just need to get the process dialed in as well as my test spotPhilippians 2:14 - Do all things without grumbling or questioning,
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Re: #105 Drying Too Fast
As a few of the more experienced guys in that Autopia thread have mentioned, M105 is a bit of a unique product. Across the board those who love it and get great results are not using it the way they would use one of our diminishing abrasive products like M83, M85, etc. That difference includes using a bit less product and keeping the work area nice and small.
Part of M105 uniqueness is that you can often get away with a bit less product than you might think, which may account for Zuke seeing it saturate his pad fairly quickly. While the buffing cycle is nowhere near as long as M205 (which is just amazingly, incredibly long!) it should give you plenty of time to work a small area - too many people let that work area expand a bit too much.Michael Stoops
Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.
Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.
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Re: #105 Drying Too Fast
I loved the results of the #M105 I have used. However, I think more experience with it is needed to get it right. It does dust a lot, do not work it too long, and work in small areas, 12 X12 or so. IMO these are all good tips to get it right, also if you have ANY small defects, chips, or painted over chip guard, as I have under the doors of my Toyota Tacoma. Make sure you get ALL the M105 off before it totally dries. As it turns white and is very hard to remove. This also goes for any paint chips that were not repaired beforehand.
I think Nappers is right. It takes a learning curve to get it right.
However, once you learned the in’s and out’s of it, and that should not take long, I think you will be very pleased with the results.
I just have one more thing to ask. Since M105/M205 seem to be the new combo. How imperative is it to use M205 if your finish looked wax ready after just using M105? Will you get more gloss, depth, or slickness by using M205?
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Re: #105 Drying Too Fast
Yeah I notice that it dries up very quickly as well. In the worst case, it gums up the paint with the dried up product that is impossible to remove even with full strength 99% alcohol. I had to use ice water to remove the dried M105 from the paint. However, it was a VERY hot day when that happened.
I ordered two sample bottles of M105 (improved version for DA). I know I should have ordered a regular sized bottle, but I ordered mine separately, not realizing that I would use so much of it.
Anyway, the consistency of the two differ quite significantly. The first bottle feels more dry to the touch, like a traditional compound. The second bottle is more fluid. I know because I had both side by side to compare. Perhaps ADS Ricky forgot to shake one of the 1 gallon jugs prior to filling the sample bottles with the product???
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Re: #105 Drying Too Fast
You shouldn't have to prime with M34 more than for the initial touch of pad to paint. Once the pad is primed with M105 you shouldn't be spraying anything else on it. Yes, some have used a light spritz of water to lengthen the buffing cycle and sort of rejuvenate the product on the pad - especially when using a wool pad - but Meguiar's does not recommend that process. Why not? It's simply too wide open a discussion - how much water, how often to spray, what volume of sprayer to use, etc, etc.
Temperature and humidity are always going to impact this sort of thing - a few years ago someone was commenting on how much dusting they were getting, and how short their buffing cycle was, when using M83 on a G100. Another member chimed in that they loved M83 because it cut so much more than M80 and was just as dust free and easy to use. Turned out the first guy was in Arizona with 100F temps and humidity in the 15% range, the other was in Florida with 85F temps and humidity in the 90% range. Huge difference.Michael Stoops
Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.
Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.
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