Introduction

[Nuscence813]

Hey guys!! I am excited I just bought my new g110v2 online and it will get to me on May 14th. I have two vehicles that are black. They are very difficult to maintain due to the season when pollen is at an all time high in Maryland. I have never fully detailed my own car. I used a random orbital before and was not too happy with the results. There were hazing on the side panels on my vehicle. I do not know what I did wrong. Hopefully the g110v2 will remove it no problem. So I also got 2 yellow, black, and burgundy pads each.

[smack]

Re: Introduction

Welcome to MOL. Congrats on the purchase of the V2.

Stay away from the burgandy pads for now. UC on the yellow pads are the most aggressive you want to go. Follow UC/yellow pad with UP/finnishing pad and then wax with your choice of wax.

[Nuscence813]

So the burgundy pads are too aggressive for now? I have some scratches that may need to be removed. So in my arsenal I have UC, UP, MIRROR GLAZE POLISH, and Scratch x 2.0. I have already applied the clay and UC and GC Polish mostly all by hand and removed with ROB. What would some advice from scratch.

[smack]

Re: Introduction

The burgandy pad can be used in small sections but not the entire car. The burgandy pad is designed more for the rotory.

From scratch go UC/Yellow and UP/black. Then two coats of your favorite wax.

[Nuscence813]

Re: Introduction

Cool man thanks alot for the help!! I will definitely keep and use that advise as soon as I get the v2. Is the UC and UP the only things i should use? Whats the best wax for black vehicles?

[smack]

Re: Introduction

Use UC for the initial detail and follow with UP/black. When you are ready to go at it again (months down the road) UP on either pad will take care of your needs provided your surface is in decent shape.

UP is a consumer version of M205 with a bit of pure polish ie M7 thrown in. You cant go wrong with UP as often as you like.

What do you want from a wax? Carnauba or synthetic?

[Nuscence813]

Re: Introduction

Well I just bought some M7 pure polish it looks great as far as what it advertises it can do. I am interested in testing it out!!! I really don't know the difference between the two but I do have both in my garage. What is the difference between the two? What are the pros and cons of each? Also this is the scratches I was talking about.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Introduction

I used a random orbital before and was not too happy with the results. There were hazing on the side panels on my vehicle. I do not know what I did wrong.

Hmmmmmm........................

I have already applied the clay and UC and GC Polish mostly all by hand and removed with ROB.

This is probably the cause. It's actually kind of backwards process since all the hard work is in the application of Ultimate Compound, not the removal. The tool should be used to vigorously work the UC against the paint until it becomes very thin and transparent, then wipe off by hand is a snap. Let the tool do the hard work, not the easy stuff! And depending on the pad or bonnet you used on the tool when removing the product, you could have marred the finish noticeably.

Before putting your new G110v2 to use, you should read through D/A Buffing 101 - An Introduction to the G110v2 and similar tools

Cool man thanks alot for the help!! I will definitely keep and use that advise as soon as I get the v2. Is the UC and UP the only things i should use? Whats the best wax for black vehicles?

UC and UP should serve you very well as they're a great pair of products. Wax choice can be very personal - do you prefer a carnauba or synthetic? Gold Class is a great carnauba, while Ultimate Wax is fully synthetic and is our longest lasting, best protecting wax.

[Nuscence813]

Re: Introduction

I meant in the waxes, sorry

[Nuscence813]

Re: Introduction

Hey Michael thats great advise and will do ASAP. What do you think of the scratches I have on the side of the truck? I have plenty of small stuff but I also live in the intercity area of DC and work in Bethesda military hospital where parking is close and careless. What can I do to perform a makeover for my truck??

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Introduction

Looks like we both posted at the same time and I missed your new questions.

M07 is a "pure polish", meaning it has zero abrasives and will do only one thing - add gloss. It is intended to be used on paint that has been prepared to a very high level, but when used on paint with a lot of fine swirls it can hide them quite well. But that hiding is going to be very short lived since M07 won't last long if it's the last product you apply to the paint. Ultimate Polish and M205 are technically "cleaner polishes", meaning they have some level of abrasive in them that can actually remove fine defects and add clarity, as well as gloss, to the paint. M205 contains more abrasives than UP, but UP contains more polishing oils.

As for those "scratches" in the side of your truck, we're more inclined to call them "gouges" and, unfortunately, nothing you pour out of a bottle is going to fix them (unless that something is touch up paint). They are very deep which means so much paint is now missing that you can no longer just buff them out. Remember, to remove a below surface defect (scratch, etching, stain, etc) you essentially have to level the surrounding paint to the bottom of the defect. Doing so on these two marks would mean going through the clear, and on one of them at least, through the color and down to primer - or even deeper.

[Nuscence813]

Re: Introduction

Looks like we both posted at the same time and I missed your new questions.

M07 is a "pure polish", meaning it has zero abrasives and will do only one thing - add gloss. It is intended to be used on paint that has been prepared to a very high level, but when used on paint with a lot of fine swirls it can hide them quite well. But that hiding is going to be very short lived since M07 won't last long if it's the last product you apply to the paint. Ultimate Polish and M205 are technically "cleaner polishes", meaning they have some level of abrasive in them that can actually remove fine defects and add clarity, as well as gloss, to the paint. M205 contains more abrasives than UP, but UP contains more polishing oils.

As for those "scratches" in the side of your truck, we're more inclined to call them "gouges" and, unfortunately, nothing you pour out of a bottle is going to fix them (unless that something is touch up paint). They are very deep which means so much paint is now missing that you can no longer just buff them out. Remember, to remove a below surface defect (scratch, etching, stain, etc) you essentially have to level the surrounding paint to the bottom of the defect. Doing so on these two marks would mean going through the clear, and on one of them at least, through the color and down to primer - or even deeper.

Ok so I should go ahead and purchase M205 then and not use theM07, or should I Use the M205 and then use the M07?? There is a lot of smaller defects within the paint throughout the body of the truck that could possibly benefit by using the 5 steps you mentioned in a previous forum article. I will follow that regimen be probaly need a more custom make over because of the scratches (not the gouges). So should I use the abrasive then non abrasive polish or just the M205. Because I was under the assumption that when I wash (CWW), dry (Absorber), clay (Meguiars Mild Bar w/ Final Inspection), compound (UC), polish (either M70, UP or M205), and then seal with GCC. Could you recommend something as far as if this plan sounds good and what polish supply to be used (whether one or two in conjuntion).

Thank You so much!!!

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Introduction

For a full correction that yields the highest gloss and clarity, we'd go with the following:

Wash
Clay
UC
M205
Wax (Gold Class, Ultimate, whatever you like)

After UC removes all the really serious defects the paint should look pretty incredible. But M205 will take it to a new level of clarity and gloss prior to waxing.

[Nuscence813]

@ Michael the custom plan failed. I even used the red pad for more cutting and the UC, SX 2.0, and 205 with no major defect removal benefit. I am going to try to reduce my workspace area by half on a test spot but if nothing better happens what should I try next?

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Introduction

Talk to us about how you were using the UC, if you don't mind - tool speed, amount of pressure, size of work area, arm speed across the paint. There are a lot of variables here and getting one of them a bit off target can really compromise the end result. Let's make sure your technique is good before looking at something more aggressive.