Just Registered, have some questions

[svtstangcobra]

Hello all
I've used quite a few Meguiar products. Everything from leather wipes to waxes. My project that needs attention is that I have a tri-stage paint - Laser Red Metallic. It's beginning to fade even though I keep it in the garage and keep it waxed, washed etc...So I've heard of a process that some are using regarding #7 glaze. Some are saying it's a good way to re-establish the darker look my paint once had, yet some are saying that it doesn't work well with Tri-stage paints. So I'm in need of some professional advice from someone from Meguiar that can head me in the right direction. Some have said it's okay to go ahead and wax after using it as well, but no direction was given as to best apply the two. One person even said that they mix 50/50 mix of #7 and yellow wax. I don't see how that could be done unless both are liquid though. Well thank you in advance for your help.
Best regards
Monte

[Murr1525]

Re: Just Registered, have some questions

Pics would help most.

But still going to be clearcoated, so the basic paint care will still apply. Be sure to read the 5-step paint care artivle for basics, though I am sure someone will add the link for us.

[Joe Dragon]

Re: Just Registered, have some questions

here ya go:

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?37320-Meguiar-s-5-Step-Paint-Care-Cycle-Updated!

[svtstangcobra]

Re: Just Registered, have some questions

here ya go:

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?37320-Meguiar-s-5-Step-Paint-Care-Cycle-Updated!

Howdy, thanks, however that's not really what I need at this point. We use all the products mentioned in the article above. What I have is a car that's going to be with me for a long time until I croak, then my son will take it from there. it's a svt mustang cobra convertible. The paint, especially on the hood is beginning to fade. I need to know if there's a product that will take care of the fading issues if possible, restoring a darker look again. Some have said that the #7 followed by a wax coat or two may help do this. Others have said it's not the best for TriStage paints like mine. If a professional feels a respray of the clear coat is necessary, then so be it. I just wanted to know if meguiars had any products that may help it look less faded. It's a general question, so I don't think pics are really going to help answer the question about rather or not meguiars has a product to help give my hood that darker look again or not. Thanks for the responses.

[wifpd4]

Re: Just Registered, have some questions

so I don't think pics are really going to help answer the question about rather or not meguiars has a product to help give my hood that darker look again or not.

Please don't underestimate the folks here. Those guys/gals are amazing. Besides photos can't hurt and may help.

[svtstangcobra]

Re: Just Registered, have some questions

Howdy, thanks, however that's not really what I need at this point. We use all the products mentioned in the article above. What I have is a car that's going to be with me for a long time until I croak, then my son will take it from there. it's a svt mustang cobra convertible. The paint, especially on the hood is beginning to fade. I need to know if there's a product that will take care of the fading issues if possible, restoring a darker look again. Some have said that the #7 followed by a wax coat or two may help do this. Others have said it's not the best for TriStage paints like mine. If a professional feels a respray of the clear coat is necessary, then so be it. I just wanted to know if meguiars had any products that may help it look less faded. It's a general question, so I don't think pics are really going to help answer the question about rather or not meguiars has a product to help give my hood that darker look again or not. Thanks for the responses.

okay, I'll find a pic of the hood here. then I need to figure how to insert here. It's been polished and has two layers of wax on it. The shade of sides is about a shade darker. I'll include a pic of engine area that's darker.
as you can see it does have a decent shine and debth to it since you can see the shade of tree's in it etc...
I just want to see if I'm too late for a product or if a paint job is now required. It's garaged as well 90%

[Murr1525]

Re: Just Registered, have some questions

I dont see any signs of clear coat failure, so nothing should be 'too far gone'.

I would just give it a proper detail:
1. Wash/Clean with QD if avoiding water
2. Clay
3. Clean - You could stay with a mild product at first like Ultimate Polish
4. Pure Polish - #7 would be optional here. Not sure you will see a lot after the Ult. Polish, but up to you.
5. Wax - Your favorite wax
6. Wax - 2 thin coats are best.

[svtstangcobra]

Re: Just Registered, have some questions

I dont see any signs of clear coat failure, so nothing should be 'too far gone'.

I would just give it a proper detail:
1. Wash/Clean with QD if avoiding water
2. Clay
3. Clean - You could stay with a mild product at first like Ultimate Polish
4. Pure Polish - #7 would be optional here. Not sure you will see a lot after the Ult. Polish, but up to you.
5. Wax - Your favorite wax
6. Wax - 2 thin coats are best.

Okay, thanks. I've just done all the above except the #7 So that means I've already done the two coats of wax.
If I use this #7, I've read that a person should apply thin coats to the entire car rather than what we do with wax applying one area at time. Then use a 100% cotton towell to wipe it off, going around the car two separate time and with the last time using a microfiber towel. Then a person can add wax, I use the top of Meguiars Carnuba line of wax and it's always worked really well.

The question is whether or not the #7 is really worth stripping off two layers of wax it has on it already, clean again, then add #7 and two more layers of wax again. this is a lot of work, so I need someone to tell me if adding the #7 into this equation is going to bring back the dark tint it used to have similar to the dark color of paint you see in my photo of the engine compartment.

Oh, another question if I could; when a paint starts to fade, is it the clearcoat that's doing that or the mid stage paints of the three stage paint that's causing the fading ? Thanks again for the response

[Murr1525]

Re: Just Registered, have some questions

Okay, thanks. I've just done all the above except the #7 So that means I've already done the two coats of wax.

So after doing the claying, cleaning, waxing, some areas still dont look quite right?

If I use this #7, I've read that a person should apply thin coats to the entire car rather than what we do with wax applying one area at time. Then use a 100% cotton towell to wipe it off, going around the car two separate time and with the last time using a microfiber towel. Then a person can add wax, I use the top of Meguiars Carnuba line of wax and it's always worked really well.

Usually it would be reverse. Wax the whole car, polish small areas.

The question is whether or not the #7 is really worth stripping off two layers of wax it has on it already, clean again, then add #7 and two more layers of wax again. this is a lot of work, so I need someone to tell me if adding the #7 into this equation is going to bring back the dark tint it used to have similar to the dark color of paint you see in my photo of the engine compartment.

I do not believe the the #7 will make that much of a difference, esp if a cleaner/polish was used already.

Oh, another question if I could; when a paint starts to fade, is it the clearcoat that's doing that or the mid stage paints of the three stage paint that's causing the fading ?

You could have the clear coat yellowing, or the base coat (color) fading. Since the color is at the bottom, you really cant help it at all. All you can do is keep the clear in the base shape possible.

[svtstangcobra]

Re: Just Registered, have some questions

okay, I'll find a pic of the hood here. then I need to figure how to insert here. It's been polished and has two layers of wax on it. The shade of sides is about a shade darker. I'll include a pic of engine area that's darker.
as you can see it does have a decent shine and debth to it since you can see the shade of tree's in it etc...
I just want to see if I'm too late for a product or if a paint job is now required. It's garaged as well 90%

This is just another view of the same shot but zoomed out a bit, but the point being that it really is an odd color to figure out since it's tri-stage color looks so different from different angles and the lighting from different angles. You don't see the tree's in the same way in the paint so much with this angle and yet you see the clouds in the sky and little more of a wet look. I'm definitely going to get to a shop around here
some where and ask them to educate me regarding the different looks a person gets when looking at it. I'm puzzled myself and won't be comfortable until I learn more about what some will call "normal" for this paint and what another will call "needing attention". Yikes ! Oh, the hood is propped up just a hair because I had just taken a pic of the engine compartment.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Just Registered, have some questions

First off, don't fixate too much on this being a tri-stage paint - there are plenty of these out there from a variety of companies and in all honesty, they don't really require anything different from a more standard base coat/clear coat paint system. It is possible, we suppose, that the top layer of this system is lacking in the UV screening department, which could account for the color fading a bit on the horizontal surfaces, but honestly we'd be more than a bit surprised if that were the case. It's more likely that this particular color is simply reflecting the light differently depending on the angle of attack. Sort of like those chameleon paints that literally change color depending on the viewing angle, only nowhere near as dramatic.

If you're using a DA buffer, and we highly recommend that you do so, then following a wash/dry and clay if needed, we would give the car a slow once over with M205 Ultra Finishing Polish on either a yellow polishing or black finishing pad to really refine the finish, improve clarity and make the paint really glow. Whether you should use the yellow or black pad for this step depends on how the paint responds, the level of any defects in the paint (very fine swirls, etc) and your expectations.

You could, if you wanted, apply M07 Show Car Glaze following the M205 but it may well be overkill unless you're headed to a show or other event with the car. But regardless, when applying any paint cleaner, polish, cleaner polish etc such as M205 or M07 the ideal application process involves working on small areas at a time and wiping off before the product dries. Allowing any of these type of products to dry does nothing more than make removal more difficult, and there's just nothing to be gained by that. Also, stick with clean microfiber towels for removing these products, and the wax you'll subsequently be applying over them.

And that brings us to the wax. At this point, after your M205, M07 or combo of the two, you definitely need to apply a wax. Things can get really personal here as we all see things a bit differently, and we all have our personal preferences. There are plenty of folks who will tell you that carnauba waxes look best on darker colors such as the red on your car, while others prefer the look of a full synthetic like NXT or Ultimate Wax. Neither of them are wrong, they just like what they like. Now, it is true that synthetics tend to last longer than carnaubas, but if you're like a lot of guys on this and other detailing forums you're waxing often enough (just from the sheer pleasure of it) that a wax's lifespan is the least of your concerns. We might be inclined to perfect the finish on this car with M205 and then finish it off with Gold Class Carnauba Plus, but that's just us.

[svtstangcobra]

Re: Just Registered, have some questions

First off, don't fixate too much on this being a tri-stage paint - there are plenty of these out there from a variety of companies and in all honesty, they don't really require anything different from a more standard base coat/clear coat paint system. It is possible, we suppose, that the top layer of this system is lacking in the UV screening department, which could account for the color fading a bit on the horizontal surfaces, but honestly we'd be more than a bit surprised if that were the case. It's more likely that this particular color is simply reflecting the light differently depending on the angle of attack. Sort of like those chameleon paints that literally change color depending on the viewing angle, only nowhere near as dramatic.

If you're using a DA buffer, and we highly recommend that you do so, then following a wash/dry and clay if needed, we would give the car a slow once over with M205 Ultra Finishing Polish on either a yellow polishing or black finishing pad to really refine the finish, improve clarity and make the paint really glow. Whether you should use the yellow or black pad for this step depends on how the paint responds, the level of any defects in the paint (very fine swirls, etc) and your expectations.

You could, if you wanted, apply M07 Show Car Glaze following the M205 but it may well be overkill unless you're headed to a show or other event with the car. But regardless, when applying any paint cleaner, polish, cleaner polish etc such as M205 or M07 the ideal application process involves working on small areas at a time and wiping off before the product dries. Allowing any of these type of products to dry does nothing more than make removal more difficult, and there's just nothing to be gained by that. Also, stick with clean microfiber towels for removing these products, and the wax you'll subsequently be applying over them.

And that brings us to the wax. At this point, after your M205, M07 or combo of the two, you definitely need to apply a wax. Things can get really personal here as we all see things a bit differently, and we all have our personal preferences. There are plenty of folks who will tell you that carnauba waxes look best on darker colors such as the red on your car, while others prefer the look of a full synthetic like NXT or Ultimate Wax. Neither of them are wrong, they just like what they like. Now, it is true that synthetics tend to last longer than carnaubas, but if you're like a lot of guys on this and other detailing forums you're waxing often enough (just from the sheer pleasure of it) that a wax's lifespan is the least of your concerns. We might be inclined to perfect the finish on this car with M205 and then finish it off with Gold Class Carnauba Plus, but that's just us.

Roger - as in, got it. Thank you. I did use and do use only the Gold Class Carnauba, just a preference like you said I suppose and like you said as well, I wax it often enough. prior to waxing, I had it detailed by a professional place over here by where I live. They have a very good reputation, do dentless repair - and well I should add, as well as touch up paint work. They do work for the local auto dealers in the area as well. So what I did when I got home, I parked it in the garage, then the next day it rained and I didn't see it bead all that great, so I personally added a couple light coats of the Gold Class Carnauba on it after washing and sticking it in the garage real quick to dry off and wax. The paint looked much better/deeper after that and of course the water started to bead off like i like it to. Like you also said, this paint is weird as in it does seem to change color quite a bit depending on angles etc... So, for now I'm going to just leave things as they are. Everyone says it looks good as far as the shine, maybe they just like Cobra's - ha, ha ! Ok, I've rambled enough here. Thanks again for the response. p.s. I did have them do it because I don't think I'm good at it, nor do I have the right equipment other than washing and applying wax course. I'm a mechanical person, not a paint and body person for some reason, darn !

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Just Registered, have some questions

You might want to look into picking up a G110v2 buffer and some pads and liquids. The process is really quite easy and it's a lot of fun, too. Since you've got this really nice toy it makes perfects sense to take ownership of the finish - it sounds like you got an overall better end result than the detailer you hired just by adding a wax that you prefer. Imagine if you did the prep work to your standards too! And of course you could use all the same products on your daily drivers and keep them looking their best, too. No, you wouldn't have to take them to the same level you want out of the Cobra, but you can do wonders to really freshen them up with not a whole lot of effort.

[svtstangcobra]

Re: Just Registered, have some questions

Roger - as in, got it. Thank you. I did use and do use only the Gold Class Carnauba, just a preference like you said I suppose and like you said as well, I wax it often enough. prior to waxing, I had it detailed by a professional place over here by where I live. They have a very good reputation, do dentless repair - and well I should add, as well as touch up paint work. They do work for the local auto dealers in the area as well. So what I did when I got home, I parked it in the garage, then the next day it rained and I didn't see it bead all that great, so I personally added a couple light coats of the Gold Class Carnauba on it after washing and sticking it in the garage real quick to dry off and wax. The paint looked much better/deeper after that and of course the water started to bead off like i like it to. Like you also said, this paint is weird as in it does seem to change color quite a bit depending on angles etc... So, for now I'm going to just leave things as they are. Everyone says it looks good as far as the shine, maybe they just like Cobra's - ha, ha ! Ok, I've rambled enough here. Thanks again for the response. p.s. I did have them do it because I don't think I'm good at it, nor do I have the right equipment other than washing and applying wax course. I'm a mechanical person, not a paint and body person for some reason, darn !

ooops !, I just noticed after viewing Mr. Stoops reply that I made a typo error above and it didn't have a edit option, maybe because too much time had elapsed. So...above where I said they do dentless repair, I obviously meant Paintless Dent Repair () . Some are really good at this and some are not. This guy that does work for these folks has it down pat, had a door ding and you can not tell where it was, no paint or anthing required but his skill and tools. They mentioned that they had a man there before, but was not as good as this one. One of the tools he had looked similar to a branding iron to me, but with an extra bend in it. He didn't want company, so I respectfully went off and waited. It took him about 20min. and cost $50. He also showed me another area that I didn't see but he did and straightened it out without going over the estimate he gave me. My wife's car will go there next. She's not the best driver and has banged into a table in the garage and some sort of other nice ding back towards the back door. And people wonder why I have these rubber seals around my doors, !. She's not always the best at positioning her car in the garage and gets too close to mine. She knows how picky I am when it comes to my Cars. She's just one of those that see's a car as a way to get from point a to point b. No maintenance required sort of attitude. Love her to death though. I take care of the maintenance on her car so she doesn't have to worry about it.