Hello, and a question!

[91_two]

Was not sure if I could post a question in here, or I can post a new thread elsewhere.

I was wondering any methods/products to use for 17 year old single stage paint (no clear coat)?

My paint is red, however it is very faded and needs to be buffed badly! My friend has detailed his car before but it has a clear coat, and I was not sure to what product to use on a non clear coated car? Something qith quite a bit of cut I believe, but was unsure of a product?

Thank you!

[Derrick]

Re: Hello, and a question!

Well you can use basically all the same products that are being used on the clear coat such as Megs #80 Speed Glaze, #83 Dual Action Cleaner/ Polish both would be good products if working with a DA and #83 being the more agressive product. If you will be working via rotary then you can look into products like #84 compound power cleaner and #85 Diamoind cut along with the W4000 wool pad and the W7000 foam cutting pad with the wool being the more agressive cutting pad and always remember to try the least agressive method first!. With the rotary you will be able to cut alot more alot faster but i only recommend using a rotary if you are already familiar with the machine and feel comfortable working with it.
Also if you are going to be doing alot of cutting then you will also have to remember when using cutting pads and compounding the paint after you are done you will have to go back over it with something like #80 speed glaze to remove and light buffer swirls left behind by the wool or foam cutting pad. I dont really know how to add links to my messages yet but im sure one of the other guys will offer you a bunch of good links to read through and learn a little bit more before you tackle your car.

Welcome to MOL!

[Murr1525]

Re: Hello, and a question!

First, you want to work from mild to stronger, dont use things that are more agressive than you need.

Second, all of Meguiars products will work on both clear coat and single stage paints.

What you might want to do is read over these first, so you get a good feel for the process. Will you be working by hand, machine, etc?

At any rate, give these a read, and then ask some more, we can certainly help refine your product options.

Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle
Step 1 Wash
Step 2 Clean
Step 3 Polish
Step 4 Protect
Step 5 Maintain

Suggested Products for Taking Care of a New Car

What it Means to Remove a Scratch

How To Remove Swirls By Hand

How to remove a defect by hand with ScratchX

1986 Ford Bronco II - Extreme Makeover

Rotary vs. PC vs. Regular Orbital Buffer

Recommended Products - G100a Dual Action Polisher

Using the G-100 to remove swirls with the Professional Line

Each one, teach one... Ferrari Fiorano 355 F1 Spider

[91_two]

Re: Hello, and a question!

Hey thanks for the fast reply! I will let my friend know, as I am unfamiliar as to what kind of buffing machine he has in his possession, though we will be using a machine not by hand. He has experience. I will take a look at the threads you posted, and see what kind of information I can dig up!

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Hello, and a question!

Was not sure if I could post a question in here, or I can post a new thread elsewhere.

I was wondering any methods/products to use for 17 year old single stage paint (no clear coat)?

My paint is red, however it is very faded and needs to be buffed badly! My friend has detailed his car before but it has a clear coat, and I was not sure to what product to use on a non clear coated car? Something with quite a bit of cut I believe, but was unsure of a product?

Thank you!

What are you working on?

If you're working by hand then it's pretty hard to beat M80 Speed Glaze with a piece of terry cloth toweling. All of our extreme makeovers on single stage paint are done using M80 Speed Glaze by hand and machine, we work by hand in small hard to reach areas and use machine for the larger flat panels.

That said, you can completely rub out an oxidized single stage paint using M80 Speed Glaze and either some terry cloth wax applicators or just get a quality terry cloth towel and cut pieces about 4" square and then fold them in half and use this folded piece of cloth as your applicator pad.

Then add some elbow grease, that is to say put some passion behind the pad and get busy. Work about a 1 foot square section at a time and really work the M80 into and over the paint. When you're done with one area move onto a new area but overlap into the previous section you worked for UMR Uniform Material Removal for a uniform appearance overall.

[J. A. Michaels]

Re: Hello, and a question!

to mol.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Hello, and a question!

Here's just one example of what M80 can do when used with the human elements of care and passion....

1974 Mercedes-Benz 450 SL

Before - Yes the paint is actually turning from red to white in some places


After

[91_two]

Re: Hello, and a question!

The car is a 1991 Toyota mr2 turbo. The paint in the rear end looks literally about like that Mercedes. We will be doing this both by hand and machine, as getting inside the spoiler is to small for a machine. I want to get rid of the oxidation and bring back the shine as well as maybe getting out some light scratching. I also want to seal this, as it has been buffed before but did not last long at all..

What are you working on?

If you're working by hand then it's pretty hard to beat M80 Speed Glaze with a piece of terry cloth toweling. All of our extreme makeovers on single stage paint are done using M80 Speed Glaze by hand and machine, we work by hand in small hard to reach areas and use machine for the larger flat panels.

That said, you can completely rub out an oxidized single stage paint using M80 Speed Glaze and either some terry cloth wax applicators or just get a quality terry cloth towel and cut pieces about 4" square and then fold them in half and use this folded piece of cloth as your applicator pad.

Then add some elbow grease, that is to say put some passion behind the pad and get busy. Work about a 1 foot square section at a time and really work the M80 into and over the paint. When you're done with one area move onto a new area but overlap into the previous section you worked for UMR Uniform Material Removal for a uniform appearance overall.

[Nappers]

Re: Hello, and a question!

I asked a similar question on the old site and got some great information. Basically, if you remove the oxidized paint and maintain it, it should stay that way...

Durability of restored SS paint

This is what I started with:


And what I finshed with, used Gold Class wax and I haven't touched since, with exception to the kid using UQD and washing with NXT or GC soap.


and another


It had minor swirls but my main objective was to see if the SS paint could be restored.

I haven't yet completed the job, but the kid has washed the truck and used my UQD and it is quite a bit shinier than the rest of the truck on the test spot I did, so with proper maintenance it should stay nice.

My process was:
Wash, #2, clay (remove oxidized paint, remove embedded paint particles after), M09 and M07 followed by GC wax in a nutshell.

Aaron

[yalerd]

Re: Hello, and a question!

Hi and welcome to Meguiar's Online!
Personally I haven't worked in any SS paint, maybe I don't have the background to recommend something, but in Meguiar's Garage they've done some full detail "extreme makeover" to some SS paint and they basically use #80 (machine / hand) to remove the defects. I think they also have used #3 Machine Glaze