Question about #80 - Does it contain heavy fillers?

[Blr123]

So you work #80 until clear then wipe off with a MF cloth then apply sealer/wax etc yeah?

Bryan

[OctaneGuy]

Yep! Likely you'll do another pass or two with M80 after wiping it down.

Originally posted by Blr123
So you work #80 until clear then wipe off with a MF cloth then apply sealer/wax etc yeah?

Bryan

[Blr123]

Thanks for that

Bryan

[Mike Phillips]

M80 offers a lot of play time, this is one of the reasons its so safe and practically Bubba-Proof. It's important to work any product with diminishing abrasives until the abrasives have completely broken down, but not until you have buffed until the product has become dry on the surface. If you buff to a dry buff, you have lost lubricity on the surface and at that point, the potential for micro-scratching or marring the finish has been reached.

Polishing paint is always about reducing the potential to instill scratches

The next question someone usually asks about now is,

"How long is long enough?"

The best answer is "Learn through hands-on experience"

Hope this helps...

[silence]

This thread should be made a sticky

[05PhillyStang]

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
[B]

Polishing paint is always about reducing the potential to instill scratches

Can you please clarify and/or elaborate on that statement. I'm not quite sure I understand how polishing reduces the POTENTIAL to instill scratches

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by 05PhillyStang
Can you please clarify and/or elaborate on that statement. I'm not quite sure I understand how polishing reduces the POTENTIAL to instill scratches

Sure...

It's your job to reduce the potential to instill a swirl or scratch when working on your car's paint by choosing the right product, the right applicator and using good technique.

For example,

Using a Grit Guard reduces the potential for instilling scratches while washing your car.


Now does it make sense?

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by silence
This thread should be made a sticky

I just moved it into Hot Topics II

[05PhillyStang]

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
Sure...

It's your job to reduce the potential to instill a swirl or scratch when working on your car's paint by choosing the right product, the right applicator and using good technique.

For example,

Using a Grit Guard reduces the potential for instilling scratches while washing your car.


Now does it make sense?

Gotcha. I was reading too deep into the statement. I looked it as if you were saying, "by polishing your car, you reduce the risk of scratches." As if the polish is protecting the finish from scratches. Thanks for the clarification and I now agree 100% with your statement.

It reminds of the guys who say that using a grit guard or thoroughly rinsing the wash mitt before re-dipping into the soap bucket is pointless then complain that the mitt scratched their finish.

[k94max]

Originally posted by Mike Phillips

The next question someone usually asks about now is,

"How long is long enough?"

The best answer is "Learn through hands-on experience"

Well, I reckon that answers my question....

[ebpcivicsi]

Here is just one of the many examples that I have of #80 in action. I love it and buy it by the gallon.

Whether it fills or not, I don't know. Honestly, i don't really care either, it works I know that.

Before:




After:
Only on eapplication od M80 with the PC and meguiars polishing pad, no wax. BTW, this car still had drive-out tags on it, it was delivered this way.



Finished product.

[Accumulator]

Originally posted by 05PhillyStang
I'm not quite sure I understand how polishing reduces the POTENTIAL to instill scratches

Adding to what Mike posted:

Any time you touch paint there's a potential for instilling scratches, just the nature of the beast. Polishing *correctly* reduces the potential. When people polish incorrectly (too long, so the product dries out or not long enough, so the abrasives don't break down) the potential is increased.

Mike- a Q about the "official stance" on working #80:

Do you/Meguiar's consider it necessary/proper to work it until it "clears out"? That's what I learned to do through experience (soft lacquer) but I always wonder if I really *need* to work it that long to break it down

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Accumulator
Mike- a Q about the "official stance" on working #80:

Do you/Meguiar's consider it necessary/proper to work it until it "clears out"? That's what I learned to do through experience (soft lacquer) but I always wonder if I really *need* to work it that long to break it down

I'll have to check with Mike Pennington on Meguiar's official stance on whether to work M80 until it goes clear or not. Once you spread your product out it's already kind of translucent do determining when it goes more clear, or translucent is kind of difficult.

Here are my thoughts however...

M80 is a fairly wet product, this gives you and me a lot of play time, what this means is while it's important to work the product until the abrasives completely break down, you can't really buff too long with the product as long as you don't buff to a dry buff.

I've been told one of the unique characteristics about the diminishing abrasives used in the M80 formula is that they break down quickly, this means they start out aggressive, but then quickly break down and polish-out.

This window of abrading time is short compared to how long you can buff the product until you reach the point where you've lost lubricity, (went to a dry buff), thus the product is Bubba-Proof.

The question people always have, especially when just starting out, is...

"How long do I buff the product?"

While the best answer is let your experience be your guide, the problem is people new to machine polishing don't have any experience to guide them, so they want a pat answer.

What we show in our Saturday detailing classes is to polish 2-3 different directions, making 2-3 passes in each direction and monitor the product on the surface to make sure you don't go to a dry buff.

Another thing we show is that the film you're leaving behind after making a pass with the polisher should always be wet/moist, never dry or in a worst case scenario... missing as in you have not only reached a dry buff, but you are not leaving any dry powder or residue behind at all.



What we teach in our Saturday

[Accumulator]

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
This window of abrading time is short compared to how long you can buff the product until you reach the point where you've lost lubricity, (went to a dry buff), thus the product is Bubba-Proof.

The question people always have, especially when just starting out, is...

"How long do I buff the product?"

...they want a pat answer...

Yeah, I suspect I'm working the #80 longer than I really need to (not a biggie, but still...) and, truth be told I don't always work it that long myself. But the "until clear but not longer" always seems like an answer that won't get people into trouble

I'll be interested to hear what Mike Pennington has to say.

[gtp]

Hey Mike -

Some pics of when to stop buffing in the M80 and start wiping would be really helpful here Its hard to tell when to keep buffing or stop buffing.