Cleaner/Wax

[NiNe STaR SHiNe]

Hi all...anyone with some tips on megs cleaner/wax...seeing as how it cleans, polishes, and protects, should it be worked with a little passion b4 spreading evenly to dry/haze or does it clean by simply being applied to the paints surface?...I am working on a "daily driven" 1995 red escort...weird, the taillights say 94, headlights show 1990 but sticker in door jam says mfd. 11/95 so it MUST be a 95...I suppose it was rear ended AND one of the previous owners rear ended someone and they replaced the lights with incorrect years both times...what a p.o.s. HAHAHAHA! anyway...so cleaner wax work with passion or light pressure and let the product do the work (applying with M/F applicator pads)

[Murr1525]

Re: Cleaner/Wax

Yeah, basically.

The red bottle Cleaner/Wax is kind of mild, but you will still want to work it in with some pasion to get the most cleaning ability out of it. Then let it dry before removing. If you feel like you need two applications somewhere, then you could just wipe off the first coat right away, no need to let it dry.

If it is real bad, you can also apply it with terry cloth to give some more bite, although that can risk a swirl or two.

[Tuck91]

Re: Cleaner/Wax

If you feel the Cleaner Wax is not enough, then pick up a 16oz bottle of ColorX at your local auto parts store.

ColorX and a foam applicator pad can do a lot, or a piece of terry cloth.

[NiNe STaR SHiNe]

Re: Cleaner/Wax

tyvm, so terry has more bite than these light blue M/F pads? Makes sense to me...and yes colorx would probably do wonders for this paint but when it comes to restoring it`s maximum potential by hand? would I not be better off with PRC or I think the other I have heard raves and praises on is D151? I will find out how to get pics where I want them and sized and all later (I hope)

[Murr1525]

Re: Cleaner/Wax

D151 is PRC, but it works best by machine.

[NiNe STaR SHiNe]

Re: Cleaner/Wax

Sorry, I`m a newbie to paint care AND a newbie to forums...if you have read my posts then you will see what I mean by the comments I have received. But, I`m sure there are more than one PRC and some will work better than others on my daily driver? ty for your time


Also, what would be my best follow up to the cleaner/wax? I was thinking try my NXT 2.0 "properly" again this time, letting it cure for 8+ hrs THEN coat #2 but I am thinking scratch-x 2.0 might have left a slight cloudiness in the paint, should I have followed it with a lighter cleaner or is the cleaner/wax going to produce results similar to the proper cleaner/wax/polish?




(only working on one panel this week and almost finished, I hope)

[akimel]

Re: Cleaner/Wax

Joe, the following passage by Mike Phillips may be instructive for you. Mike is addressing proper application of ColorX, but I think it would also apply to Cleaner Wax:

Removing swirls means removing a little paint, that's where polishing paint becomes an art form because you have to use the right products with the right technique to remove a little paint without leaving any marks in it at the same time.

If this is a daily driver, then just normal wear and tear will tend to instill light swirls so maintaining a 100% swirls free finish will require that you're ever practicing proper technique anytime you wash or dry the car and anytime you apply something and then wipe it off.

ColorX is a strong cleaner/wax, it contains both chemical cleaners and diminishing abrasives plus polish and wax, it may or may not remove the swirls in your car's paint.

Best thing to do is to wash the car really well so that their isn't any kind of dirt or abrasive particles on the paint, then apply the ColorX using either soft foam or soft microfiber applicator pads and only do a section about a foot squared. Work the ColorX like you would rub a skin lotion onto your skin. Use an ample amount of product, that is your surface should be wet with product as you're relying on the diminishing abrasives to remove very small particles of paint off the car in an effort to level the surface.

After applying and working the product to this small area allow it to complete dry and then wipe it off and inspect.

If the results look good to your eyes then repeat this over the entire car working only small sections at a time. If it doesn't look good to your eyes, then come back to this thread and let us know what you're seeing.

You can of course apply a coat of NXT to a previously applied coat of Cleaner Wax or ColorX. Many MOL members do this on a regular basis. See, e.g., this article: Your Daily Driver: A Simple Wash & Wax Regimen.

BTW, PRC is simple the abbreviation for the specific product that is named Paint Reconditioning Cream (i.e., D151). PRC belongs to a category of waxes that clean the paint surface and leave behind a protective film--otherwise known as cleaner waxes or all-in-one waxes (AIOs). Meguiar's sells several cleaner waxes. See this article: What is your favorite AIO cleaner wax?

Cheers,
Al

[NiNe STaR SHiNe]

Re: Cleaner/Wax

Thanks, Al!


I asked them what would be MY best choice to top the few coats of cleaner/wax that I have applied because I had revealed the make, model color, and hoped to portray the paint as in "poor" condition or at least until I started on it. One day I will prob. go with D151 but I am trying to make my car look as good as possible for as little as possible right now since I have VERY little $. I topped it with NXT 2.0 but for the 24th out of 27 times I have applied 2.0 it left those "polymers" or "molecule" we all call streaks/lines/patches/blotches and it dried for an hour and ten minutes...that faulty bottle is going back today.

[Tuck91]

Re: Cleaner/Wax



I think you let it dry too long, an hour and ten mintes is too long. I think your NXT 2.0 is fine and you just need to tweek your technique.

[imacarnut]

Re: Cleaner/Wax

You can't go wrong with colorx and this has to be one of my fave megs products (been using it for many years) of all-time. Work the product in pretty well (using the products cleaning ability, and I use a foam applicator btw) into a very thin light coat appears, let it dry to a haze, then remove.

[NiNe STaR SHiNe]

Re: Cleaner/Wax

I get it now...an hour and 10 minutes is too long and 20 minutes is not long enough and 45 minutes to an hour is just right but yet all of the above I get streaks/blotches/patches/clouds/**** stains. Call them what you will but it`s EVERY TIME unless it`s a light color paint then you can not see them so they could be twice as bad but just not visible...that even further encourages me to take the bottle back and not even TRY for another one but to go ahead and SWITCH to a new wax altogether. Gold Class Liquid, Gold Class Clear Coat Car Wax Paste and M26 I think would be just about my choices working by hand.


Is Paste Better Or More Efficient Than Liquid?

[akimel]

Re: Cleaner/Wax

Is Paste Better Or More Efficient Than Liquid?

Heck if I know. Everyone seems to have a preference. I prefer paste waxes, as they seem to make it a bit easier for me to apply thin coats--but that's just me. The majority of MOL members prefer liquid waxes and find them easier to apply and work with. Some claim that paste waxes are more durable than liquid waxes, but I do not know of any scientific testing that supports this claim.

All that is really important is that you find a wax that you like ... and use it often.

BTW, there is one Meguiar's wax that may be truly dummy proof--Ultimate Quik Wax. Even *I* have not been able to goof it up.

[NiNe STaR SHiNe]

Re: Cleaner/Wax

So would the "majority" of MOL members be people who just work on their own cars, family and friends as like a hobby? Or would they be professionals who do this for a living? IMO it seems like people would be introduced to liquid wax until they got the whole "waxing process" down then the paste waxes as it would seem a bit harder to work the paste into thin and even coats by hand? Or would it be the other way around if it worked like that at all?

[CieraSL]

Re: Cleaner/Wax

So would the "majority" of MOL members be people who just work on their own cars, family and friends as like a hobby? Or would they be professionals who do this for a living? IMO it seems like people would be introduced to liquid wax until they got the whole "waxing process" down then the paste waxes as it would seem a bit harder to work the paste into thin and even coats by hand? Or would it be the other way around if it worked like that at all?

Here are a couple of good threads for you to look through:

What kind of detailer are you?

Liquid or Paste Wax?