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To-metal chip repair by hand

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  • To-metal chip repair by hand

    Hey Folks...

    Finally tackling something I've let go far too long. Had a paint chip that was about 2mm across, decided just to leave it for the time being.

    Well, the time being ended up being all winter, and a bit of rust started to form. I cleaned it out and applied some primer (just until I could do a complete repair), but I was stupid and didn't flake off any loose paint, so the rust came back Just noticed how bad it was after a no-touch car wash (living in an apartment with no hose access *****), when some of the loose paint got kicked away by the pressure.

    So, now I'm left with a pencil-eraser sized chip with some rust. Eek!

    I've already ordered some Meg's 3000 grit (first time doing it, so I'm playing it safe with the grit, will just have tired arms!), have a sanding block to sand with, and have primer and color matched paint. I'm going to use the plastic toothpick applicator method, build up a couple layers of primer, 3-4 of paint, and 1 of clearcoat (probably unnecessary but what the hey), or however many it takes me to get it "bumped" over the surrounding surface so I can knock it back down with the wetsanding.

    Couple questions though...
    1. What's the best way to clean off the surface rust? Will Isopropyl alcohol + q-tip be enough? I plan on using a pencil eraser with 3000 grit glued to it in a little circle to clean out the worst of it, but I want to get all the traces out.
    2. Is ultimate compound the best product to use right after the wetsand? I plan on doing ScratchX after it and then an all-in-one that shall remain unnamed
    3. Should I even try to tackle this? Is there anything I can do that will make it more expensive for a body shop to fix? I figure they'd probably advise respraying the panel anyway, so no harm no foul, right?

    Any other tips?

    Thanks a bunch folks!

  • #2
    Re: To-metal chip repair by hand

    1. I would sand the spot, and the edges of the paint. You can glue a small piece of sandpaper to the end of a pensil eraser, or try to fold the paper.

    2. Working by hand, UC is the best you will do...

    3. Personally, I would try to sand the rust out and the edges of the paint to make sure there is nothing else loose, then dab in a little primer, then the paint. Maybe clear it, but I would not worry about a bump. I just leave it even or a slight depression and move on.
    2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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    • #3
      Re: To-metal chip repair by hand

      Leaving all winter didn't do you any favours.

      You must be satisfied that you have completely removed all traces of rust.Painting over will cause it to bubble again.This is the most important part.

      What I've done in the past,after sanding,is wipe well the metal with isop. alcohol.Apply a thin coat of primer.Dried it with a hair dryer(gently).Once dried,applied a small dab of the color(dab untill it's slightly above the paintwork,but don't try to fill all in one go.If need be,wait to dry and dab again) and left it for a week to two weeks.(If you've got hot,dry weather that's perfect,but try not to touch it within this period).

      To make sure it won't come off,leave it for another week or so(longer,the better),then you can start to finish.

      Mask off with painters tape around the repair(a little square),and use some fine sandpaper with water.Start with 1000 grit or finer,and gently try to bring the level of the repair down to the bodywork.Once you are almost there,change to a finer grit paper,maybe 2000.Remove the tape and use one of the above mentioned polishes to blend it.

      I did mine about ten years ago,and I can see it,but that's because I know where it is.No one else has ever noticed.

      Hope this helps you.But as I said earlier,the most important part is making sure the affected area is 100% free of rust.Any minute traces will cause it to come through again,and all your hard work will have been in vain.

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      • #4
        Re: To-metal chip repair by hand

        Instead of sanding, I have heard you could use a rust converter (such as rust check). I'd imagine it would be good because its a very small area but I would check into it more if you can. This would leave you with a paint ready surface with no rust/no sanding.

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        • #5
          Re: To-metal chip repair by hand

          Originally posted by Wheelman View Post
          Instead of sanding, I have heard you could use a rust converter (such as rust check). I'd imagine it would be good because its a very small area but I would check into it more if you can. This would leave you with a paint ready surface with no rust/no sanding.

          I think this is the same stuff i get here,just a different name(Has a reaction that turns the metal blue/purple).Here it's called ferox.I used it recently(2 years ago) on my sunroof,but I still went by the method of removing all traces of rust by hand.Why? I think they will work temporarily if all the rust is not removed.It's a risk! I decided that 2 years down the line,I didn't want to be removing the sunroof again and start over.The problem is that you can't get into the areas(frame)that are welded on the inside.So I hope it lasts.So far it's okay.

          As for it's rust eating capabilities....?

          Most of the time,when rust hasn't been removed completely,it can stay dormant for a long time if it's left uncovered(mild weather).As soon as you cover it with paint it just errupts and creates more problems.

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