I found this tip in a round about way, but I'm posting the link to it. I've had less than spectacular results with M105 and a wool pad on 2 white cars.
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Re: M105 Tip
Originally posted by AeroCleanse View PostI found this tip in a round about way, but I'm posting the link to it. I've had less than spectacular results with M105 and a wool pad on 2 white cars.
http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...l-no-luck.html
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Re: M105 Tip
From page 3 of the thread, the OP, (Original Poster), comes back after putting Kevin's advice into practice
THIS PROCESS WORKS!!!! Thank you so much waxman! I did exactly as you said, prime the pad thoroughly, laid about a 5-6" bead down, 1000rpm, worked until drying, then spritz with water, and keep going until it finished down. Worked flawlessly!
Here the results:
BEFORE:
After several different processes including 2 passes with M105/Wool(normal), 2 passes with SIP/Wool, SIP/Orange, SIP/White..NOTHING WORKED!
Now after ONE "pass" using new process from iamwaxman, followed by 106FA/white:
The light is out of focus because I had it to show the swirls not a perfect reflection of light..
Just proves the point that besides choosing the right product using good technique is equally important of a factor. Kevin knows as well as anyone that's used M105 correctly what the product is capable of doing when used correctly. The swirls and scratches in the before picture look completely removable by M105 with a wool pad and a rotary buffer if used correctly and the above copied and pasted conversations proves that point.
Besides that, whenever you're new to a product just because it doesn't work the first time doesn't mean the product doesn't work, it may mean you need to spend some more time with it as practice makes perfect. Over the years we've had many people come to this forum saying the bought ScratchX and couldn't get it to work, then through this forum we help to tweak their technique and see them through to success. Also just goes to show how valuable the helpful members of a forum can be.
Hat's off to Kevin for seeing that forum member through to success...
It's in keeping with our forum philosophy of,
"Each one teach one"
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Re: M105 Tip
Would this be the result of the micro abrasives that are left which are on the wool pad and paint being lubricated and used again since they dont break down?
When I did tried this with 151 and a Solo Wool pad, I was buffing the car with 151, thought it looked okay, but after misting the pad with Last Touch and rebuffing, the surface area looked much better.
Which of the products can be used in this fashion?
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Re: M105 Tip
Originally posted by Tom Weed View PostWould this be the result of the micro abrasives that are left which are on the wool pad and paint being lubricated and used again since they don't break down?
Keep in mind that besides the abrasives there are other chemicals and ingredients in our paint care products that are being used up and of course your generating removed paint into the mix as a part of abrading the paint. Also keep in mind that adding a liquid to the mix can affect the other ingredients in any product. So at some point you do want to stop buffing, wipe the residue off, clean your pad and start fresh.
Another mantra we teach people at all our classes and on this forum is to...
"Always work clean"
I'll see if we can get an official position on this practice posted today...
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