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Wet Sanding Advice

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  • #1

    Wet Sanding Advice

    Hi everyone, I need some advice on wet sanding, Its something I've never done before but I have an extra door that I intend to practice on first before attempting to work on my vehicle. The paint on my vehicle (shown below) has reflections that are blurred (went over it with a DA and UC but that does nothing to it) and Mr. Stoops suggested to try 3000 grit sanding since the car was previously sanded and buffed by someone else. I initially intended to go about this wet sanding by hand (since I dont have access to air da's) and compounding with my G110v2, but then today I read up some more on it and saw that you can use the G110v2 to dampsand and this would be safer than doing it by hand.

    These are my questions:

    What would I need for my G110v2 to damp sand and what speed to use?
    Any tips for a newbie to damp sanding? (I looked at some of the meguiars videos online like Ammo's one on wet sanding)
    Is the technique far different compared to say the technique to polish?
    And finally I've always thought that factory paint should never be wet sanded, but today I came across a thread where someone dampsanded factory using 1500grit to get out orange peel. Is that even safe?

    Thanks in advance for the help.

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  • #2
    Re: Wet Sanding Advice

    That does look rather matte. It doesn't look right at all.
    Is it like that everywhere on the car or just the hood?
    Is there any inconspicuous spot to test like door jambs, under the hood or trunk with the same degree of finish?

    I bought a 3 inch Meguiars backing pad and a foam interface for my PC7424. Along with that I got some 1500 and 3000, 3 inch round 3M Trizact sandpaper(Meguiars has the unigrit that I was unaware of)
    I sanded headlights with these(with a dawn/water lube) and then used 3 inch 3M buffing and polishing pads with UC and M205 respectively. They came out like new and it was very easy.
    I just went slow and smooth and checked my work frequently.

    Maybe you could use a heavier cut foam pad and some 101 for starters.
    With 3000 and the Meguiars 3 inch backing plate/foam interface I don't think you have to worry at all.

    Comment

    • #3
      Re: Wet Sanding Advice

      Originally posted by Spazzz View Post
      That does look rather matte. It doesn't look right at all.
      Is it like that everywhere on the car or just the hood?
      Is there any inconspicuous spot to test like door jambs, under the hood or trunk with the same degree of finish?

      I bought a 3 inch Meguiars backing pad and a foam interface for my PC7424. Along with that I got some 1500 and 3000, 3 inch round 3M Trizact sandpaper(Meguiars has the unigrit that I was unaware of)
      I sanded headlights with these(with a dawn/water lube) and then used 3 inch 3M buffing and polishing pads with UC and M205 respectively. They came out like new and it was very easy.
      I just went slow and smooth and checked my work frequently.

      Maybe you could use a heavier cut foam pad and some 101 for starters.
      With 3000 and the Meguiars 3 inch backing plate/foam interface I don't think you have to worry at all.
      The entire car except the front fender has it with varying degrees.
      The only spot I can think of to test first is at the rear quarter, but thanks for the advice I think I'll try the M105 with a microfibre pad and see if that does anything before I look into the damp sanding. But from what you told me it looks like I'll need the foam interface and the unigrit pads if I go that route.

      Comment

      • #4
        Re: Wet Sanding Advice

        Is the paint original or has it been repainted? You mentioned that someone else had previously sanded and buffed the paint. I'm wondering why someone would do that to your paint if it hadn't been repainted or hadn't had severe defects that needed to be removed.

        If someone else has already sanded and buffed the paint there's a strong possibility the paint could be thin- at least in certain spots. You'd really need a paint thickness gauge to know for sure.

        There's a possibility there may be evidence of previous sanding marks remaining in the paint which may be reducing the clarity which is what you're seeing. It may be why Mike recommended to use 3000 grit, primarily to chase out the remaining sanding marks.

        M105 with the Meguiars thin yellow polishing pad would be my advice to try first, however. You could go to the thin burgundy cutting pad, but not knowing how thick the paint is after previous sanding, I'd exercise caution. Look at the result you see after using M105. If it's better, that might be the way to go. Especially if you are limited in wet sanding experience.

        But keep in mind it's hard to determine exactly what your paint looks like from one picture online. It would be much easier to determine in person. Perhaps have a professional have a look at it first to give their opinion?

        Comment

        • #5
          Re: Wet Sanding Advice

          Originally posted by Selectchoice View Post
          Is the paint original or has it been repainted? You mentioned that someone else had previously sanded and buffed the paint. I'm wondering why someone would do that to your paint if it hadn't been repainted or hadn't had severe defects that needed to be removed.

          If someone else has already sanded and buffed the paint there's a strong possibility the paint could be thin- at least in certain spots. You'd really need a paint thickness gauge to know for sure.

          There's a possibility there may be evidence of previous sanding marks remaining in the paint which may be reducing the clarity which is what you're seeing. It may be why Mike recommended to use 3000 grit, primarily to chase out the remaining sanding marks.

          M105 with the Meguiars thin yellow polishing pad would be my advice to try first, however. You could go to the thin burgundy cutting pad, but not knowing how thick the paint is after previous sanding, I'd exercise caution. Look at the result you see after using M105. If it's better, that might be the way to go. Especially if you are limited in wet sanding experience.

          But keep in mind it's hard to determine exactly what your paint looks like from one picture online. It would be much easier to determine in person. Perhaps have a professional have a look at it first to give their opinion?
          It has been repainted by the previous over, and a couple years ago it started looking really dull and it had swirls, so I took it to a body shop where I lived and the guy said that it needs to be sanded and buff. At that time I didn't know much about paint correction so I agreed. He did it and the car looked amazing like a mirror, but at that time I didnt know about maintaining the paint with wax etc so it degraded again until this year when started to get into the detailing and I tried to correct it with a DA and UC and ULW and the results are what you saw in the picture. After I consulted with Mike and he suggested the 3000 (since it was sanded already) I went back to the same body shop and the guy said he thinks the paint is missing some sort of sealant which is why it got back like that and he suggested wet sanding with 1500 grit again which shows obviously that he doesn't know much about paint thickness because that would leave me with no clearcoat.

          So thats why I'm attempting to correct it myself.

          Comment

          • #6
            Re: Wet Sanding Advice

            If you can take a picture on a clear day, with the sun in the reflection, it would be easier to see what is up.

            Comment

            • #7
              Re: Wet Sanding Advice

              I'd be very wary of sanding again. Especially if you have any doubts about the bodyshop's credibility. A car, repainted or not, can only have so much paint on it....

              Try to pop a few more pics up when you can so we can better see the condition and diagnose further.

              Silly question perhaps, but you're sure it's clear coated paint?

              Comment

              • #8
                Re: Wet Sanding Advice

                Originally posted by Selectchoice View Post
                I'd be very wary of sanding again. Especially if you have any doubts about the bodyshop's credibility. A car, repainted or not, can only have so much paint on it....

                Try to pop a few more pics up when you can so we can better see the condition and diagnose further.

                Silly question perhaps, but you're sure it's clear coated paint?
                I will try to get a few tomorrow once the weather is good, and yes I'm sure it is clearcoated. I'm not sure if if is possible but I'll try to see if I can get someone to measure the paint depth so then I'll be able to come to a decision.

                Comment

                • #9
                  Re: Wet Sanding Advice

                  Pictures

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