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Hazing from wet sanding

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  • #1

    Hazing from wet sanding

    I'm hoping someone has had some experience with this and can help. I think my problem is the hardness of the paint. I wetsanded some scratches on my wife's Chrysler the other day, and I can't seem to completely eliminate the resulting hazing. I used 2000 grit paper, and both it and the area being sanded were throughly wet.

    When I tried this with my Buick or a scratch, I was able to remove the hazing by using scratchx after the sanding, and the hazing is completely gone. On the Chrysler, I tried the scratchx and saw little improvement. I then used #83 with a PC7336 and it did imp[rove but the undeerlying hazing is still there if you look from certain angles. BTW, this was my first attempt using the orbital, and I can see where my technique will need some work.

    I guess I have two quesstions. Is there a significant difference in the hardness of the paint between Chrysler and GM? How aggressive should I get in attempting to remove the hazing? Thanks in advance for any help.
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  • #2
    It usually takes a rotary with a cutting pad to completely remove the sanding marks. The G-100 doesn't produce enough cutting action to completely remove the hazing (at least with a single pass). You may want to try a couple more passes with #83 and follow with some #80 and see if that works.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by travisdecpn
      It usually takes a rotary with a cutting pad to completely remove the sanding marks. The G-100 doesn't produce enough cutting action to completely remove the hazing (at least with a single pass). You may want to try a couple more passes with #83 and follow with some #80 and see if that works.
      Thanks, I'll try that. It may also have been my lack of experience on the PC. I'm sure I moved too fast to really work the product in. Still got some pretty good results, though!

      Comment

      • #4
        IT may help to move the pc in forward/backward, side to side, and diagonal motions over the surface to help remove the scratches. Also make sure the polish has broken down complete (but not dry) before you stop working it. Hope this helps.

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        • #5
          When progressing through stages the idea is that each stage removes some defect but leaves some lesser defect. The next stage removes those defects but leaves it's own and you keep progressing in steps until the defects are too small to see.

          Unfortunately if you take too big a step you find yourself using a process that can't remove the last step's defects.

          After #2000 I would expect that you'd have to go to a pretty heavy compound like M-84 or M-85 with a rotary and wool pad to remove the scratch. If you're using Meguiar's paper I'm pretty sure a foam cutting pad (W-7006) would work fine.

          Using the G-100, M-83 and a W-8006 pad I wouldn't be to confident that even Meguiar's #3000 paper is fine enough. Sticking with the PC/83/8006 combo you may have to step up through some very fine papers.


          PC.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by the other pc
            After #2000 I would expect that you'd have to go to a pretty heavy compound like M-84 or M-85 with a rotary and wool pad to remove the scratch. If you're using Meguiar's paper I'm pretty sure a foam cutting pad (W-7006) would work fine.
            I agree. I just wet sanded a black 7 series with 2000 and 3000 grit. Next step was W7000 with 85. Then W8000 with 80 and acheived good results. These were with a rotary. If you're using a DA you will not get satisfactory results. If you buff too long with a DA it will tend to dull the surface and it will not take out deep sanding marks. Of course, I topped it with 20. Almost forgot to mention.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by the other pc
              When progressing through stages the idea is that each stage removes some defect but leaves some lesser defect. The next stage removes those defects but leaves it's own and you keep progressing in steps until the defects are too small to see.

              Unfortunately if you take too big a step you find yourself using a process that can't remove the last step's defects.

              After #2000 I would expect that you'd have to go to a pretty heavy compound like M-84 or M-85 with a rotary and wool pad to remove the scratch. If you're using Meguiar's paper I'm pretty sure a foam cutting pad (W-7006) would work fine.

              Using the G-100, M-83 and a W-8006 pad I wouldn't be to confident that even Meguiar's #3000 paper is fine enough. Sticking with the PC/83/8006 combo you may have to step up through some very fine papers.


              PC.
              I guess the Buick experience gave me a false sense of confidence. Thanks for the feedback. I used 3M paper. If I understand what your saying, I should step up to higher levels of grit until the depth of the scratches are so uniform that I can remove the remaining damage using the PC?

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              • #8
                That's one way of doing it.

                In the industry they maximize speed and minimize the number of stages to gain productivity and reduce cost. The learning curve of the rotary isn't as big a drawback for them because the increase in productivity is huge.

                For the hobbyist the cost and learning curve of the rotary can be tough to justify for the amount it's used. Stepping through paper grits that are much finer than you normally find in the automotive world would keep you from having to deal with the rotary.

                Meguiar's papers go to #3000. I still think that will be too much for the PC/83/8006. Mirka Abralon pads go to #4000. That might be fine enough for the PC/83/8006 but I wouldn't be surprised if you'd have better luck going beyond, to #6000 and #8000.


                PC.

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                • #9
                  Re: Hazing from wet sanding

                  Originally posted by the other pc View Post
                  Meguiar's papers go to #3000. I still think that will be too much for the PC/83/8006. Mirka Abralon pads go to #4000. That might be fine enough for the PC/83/8006 but I wouldn't be surprised if you'd have better luck going beyond, to #6000 and #8000.
                  I hope nobody minds I am waking up old thread but I am curious where one can find #6000 or #8000 (I am assuming you are not talking Micro Mesh)?

                  Thank you!

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Re: Hazing from wet sanding

                    I believe there are other manufacturers of ultra fine abrasives but Micro-Surface (makers of Micro-Mesh products) is the only one I know of for sure.


                    PC.

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