• If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Painting my first truck

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Painting my first truck

    Hello to all
    painting my first truck ever, very new wanted to ask some newbee questions. my friend who should of painted the truck got into a bad car crash. I am now on my own so please bear with me I am still learning. So far I have painted three coats of laquar black paint and three coats of ultimate spot/panel clear coat, so fare everything looks great until my 8 years decided to put wax on my front right fender, my quetion is how do i fix that fender? I would like to spry 1 more coat of clear , and can someone please give me a break down of steps from start to finish, so I no i'm heading in the right direction down to the grit sand paper, how to buff, when to buff, what products to use? I'm using a finishline HVLP gun @ about 18-23 psi, using a sherwin williams paint (ACME) Give me a list of info you need to answer my questions and i will post it same day. I am not a pro I build motors not paint (please take it easy)
    THANKS IN ADVANCE

  • #2
    Re: Painting my first truck

    Welcome to Meguiar's Online.


    You have to sand, compound and polish your fresh paint.

    Step 1 - Wet/ Damp Sanding - to make your paint smooth you need to even it with a sand paper, you could start with 1200-1500 grit and then follow with 2500-3000 grit paper, you can do it by hand (wet sanding) or use a dual action sander, either pneumatic or electric, with sanding discs (damp sanding). Meguiar's has all products needed: sand papers, sanding blocks and sanding/ finishing discs 3" and 6" diameter (you use interface pad between backing plate and sanding/ finishing discs).

    Step 2 - Sanding Marks Removal/ Compounding - your best approach would be a rotary buffer with either wool or foam cutting pad and compound. You could use M105 Ultra Cut Compound or Meguiar's So1o System (M86 Cut & Polish Cream with 7" wool cutting pad). There's also W4003 3" wool cutting pad for tight areas (you need W63 backing plate). Meguair's W66 So1o backing plate is very flexible and will provide good backing for all your pads.

    Step 3 - Swirl Marks Removal/ Gloss Restoration - rotary buffer with M205 Ultra Finishing Polish/ yellow polishing pad or M86 Cut & Polish Cream/ So1o yellow polishing pad. This step will remove any undisired side effects left by compounding step (swirls/ holograms) and restore gloss.

    Step 4 (Optional) - Further Gloss Restoration/ Paint Jewelling - you can go for even deeper gloss using either rotary or D/A polisher again with M205 Ultra Finishing Polish and black finishing pad or M86 Cut & Polish Cream and black So1o finishing pad (rotary only).

    Don't wax your fresh paint for at least 30-60 days to let it fully outgas.

    I have couple questions: have you ever done any work using a rotary buffer and have you ever sanded a paint ? It's not a job for somebody new to those processes as things may go really wrong and re-painting may be needed.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Painting my first truck

      thank you for the help, no i have very little experiance with an electric buffer and no i havent sanded fresh paint,, what should i do?

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Painting my first truck

        What happened to the parts....??? pics??
        (you can at least ISPO the parts [rub them with alcohol])

        Comment

        Your Privacy Choices
        Working...
        X