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Many of you may have already read some of my earlier posts about orange peel and maybe either damp sanding or wet sanding with 3000 to lessen them.
When I used the V2, going as aggressive as I could with it, this is the best that I could do on my rear passenger door:
Before:
This is a half and half picture:
This is my after picture:
The swirls were gone, but the reflectivity is just totally obscured. For the most part, without shining a light on it, I couldn't tell anything was done.
I was hoping to get a paint gauge, but I couldn't justify the purchase for what would likely be just one use. All I could do was hope that using as fine a grade as 3000, which is usually just a final finishing paper, would be nonaggressive enough to keep paint removal in a safe boundary, especially knowing the history of this paint.
Most of the marks came out easily. I used a rotary because there were spots where I had to take out tracers.
Comparison picture with the adjacent door:
Final picture after wetsanding with 3000 and buffing:
Finally some reflectivity. The orange peel is not gone, you just have to stand back further in order to see it. Surface defects are not eliminated. The RIDS are much shallower, though. The speckles are less dense.
The main thing that shows up on the white paint, though, is the reflectivity.
If anyone who has access to a paint thickness gauge could do a test like this, wet sanding with 3000 grit only, with measurements, that would be great supporting information to have.
To answer the question of how much sanding I did, since I didn't photograph that part, probably about 40 strokes forward and back, doing mostly small strokes in small areas at a time. It was just enough to haze or frost the paint.
When I used the V2, going as aggressive as I could with it, this is the best that I could do on my rear passenger door:
Before:
This is a half and half picture:
This is my after picture:
The swirls were gone, but the reflectivity is just totally obscured. For the most part, without shining a light on it, I couldn't tell anything was done.
I was hoping to get a paint gauge, but I couldn't justify the purchase for what would likely be just one use. All I could do was hope that using as fine a grade as 3000, which is usually just a final finishing paper, would be nonaggressive enough to keep paint removal in a safe boundary, especially knowing the history of this paint.
Most of the marks came out easily. I used a rotary because there were spots where I had to take out tracers.
Comparison picture with the adjacent door:
Final picture after wetsanding with 3000 and buffing:
Finally some reflectivity. The orange peel is not gone, you just have to stand back further in order to see it. Surface defects are not eliminated. The RIDS are much shallower, though. The speckles are less dense.
The main thing that shows up on the white paint, though, is the reflectivity.
If anyone who has access to a paint thickness gauge could do a test like this, wet sanding with 3000 grit only, with measurements, that would be great supporting information to have.
To answer the question of how much sanding I did, since I didn't photograph that part, probably about 40 strokes forward and back, doing mostly small strokes in small areas at a time. It was just enough to haze or frost the paint.
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