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Unigrit Foam Finishing Disc questions

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  • termigator69
    replied
    Re: Unigrit Foam Finishing Disc questions

    That looks great, Mike.

    Generally speaking, how would you compare lacquer and urethane? I think it's going to come down to either using the Duplicolor lacquer paints or getting the acrylic urethane from Summit. Keep in mind that, while I do "plan" on waxing every month or every other month, the car will be sitting outside the the Florida sun most of the time.

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  • Mike Phillips
    replied
    Re: Unigrit Foam Finishing Disc questions

    Originally posted by termigator69 View Post

    From what I've heard so far, lacquer is not durable at all, but I would like to know if these naysayers of lacquer are waxing their vehicle at all.
    I've worked on a lot of old lacquer in my life, seen lacquer paint jobs that held up over time and lacquer paint jobs that couldn't be saved.

    Maintaining a lacquer paint job is less about waxing it and more about polishing it with a non-abrasive pure polish like #3, #5, or #7

    Polish often and it will hold up for a long time. Keeping it out of inclement weather and harsh sun just goes without saying.

    This is the original single stage paint on a 1954 Corvette, this car was found in a barn and the paint restored by hand using Meguiar's polishes. This picture was taking in 2004 at a car show in Eugene, Oregon where it took first place for it's category. I used to have a picture of it as it was found in the barn with about an inch of dust and dirt over the entire car.



    I'm pretty sure that in 1954 cars were still being sprayed with acrylic lacquer but if not lacquer then it would have been an enamel and for the most part, the paints seem to react to polishing about the same.


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  • termigator69
    replied
    Re: Unigrit Foam Finishing Disc questions

    Originally posted by DetailFreak517 View Post
    Yep, Summit Racing.

    And I would agree that lacquer is best for a garage queen -- the look of lacquer can't really be beat, but when it comes to durability it's not the greatest option (though I'm fairly certain keeping it waxed won't be an issue considering we're talking on MOL)
    I always wax my cars at least once a month. From what I've heard so far, lacquer is not durable at all, but I would like to know if these naysayers of lacquer are waxing their vehicle at all.

    Thanks for tipping me off about Summit. I checked out their website and found their auto paints more to my liking. Their paints require a 4:1 mixture. I can actually buy a gallon along with activator and use all of it.

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  • DetailFreak517
    replied
    Re: Unigrit Foam Finishing Disc questions

    Originally posted by termigator69 View Post
    I was not aware that Summit sold paints too. I'll have to look into that. You're talking Summit Racing, right?
    Yep, Summit Racing.

    And I would agree that lacquer is best for a garage queen -- the look of lacquer can't really be beat, but when it comes to durability it's not the greatest option (though I'm fairly certain keeping it waxed won't be an issue considering we're talking on MOL)

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  • termigator69
    replied
    Re: Unigrit Foam Finishing Disc questions

    Originally posted by DetailFreak517 View Post
    I don't see a problem with Lacquer based paints in some applications. It really depends what you're going to use the vehicle for whether or not it's the best choice.

    Have you checked out Eastwood's paint system, or the new paint system from Summit? I've heard very good things about both, and they offer both catalyzed and non-catalyzed systems for you to choose from depending on what you want or need.
    I liked the Duplicolor system because it comes readily mixed. The car is not exactly going to be my DD, but it will be sitting outside 24/7. From what I've heard so far, lacquer is best used for garage queens.

    I have the Eastwood catalog and I'm sort of leaning towards their urethane paints. I'm just a little annoyed that they sell the paint in gallons and the activator in quarts, but then the paint requires a 3:1 mix ratio. What the #%$& am I supposed to do with the other quart of paint without any activator?!

    I was not aware that Summit sold paints too. I'll have to look into that. You're talking Summit Racing, right?

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  • Michael Stoops
    replied
    Re: Unigrit Foam Finishing Disc questions

    Originally posted by Marcki View Post
    Just curious, I note that Meguiars only sells these in 1500 and 3000 grit. Will these always be enough? Would you sometimes need 2000 or 2500?
    The vast majority of the time going from a 1500 to 3000 grit finishing paper is all you really need - there shouldn't be a need for anything in between these two, and a 3000 grit finishing mark will just be easier to buff out than anything more coarse.

    It should also be noted that we have the 1500 grit sanding disc in 6" diameter which will cut faster and level texture more readily than a 1500 grit finishing disc.

    Of course in the 3" size we have sanding discs down to 320 grit for headlight restoration and paint spot repair.

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  • Mary S
    replied
    Re: Unigrit Foam Finishing Disc questions

    Just curious, I note that Meguiars only sells these in 1500 and 3000 grit. Will these always be enough? Would you sometimes need 2000 or 2500?

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike Phillips
    replied
    Re: Unigrit Foam Finishing Disc questions

    Originally posted by termigator69 View Post
    I know Mike Phillips said he used 6 3000 grit discs to sand a car for DetailFest. I would guess I'm going to need just a few more.
    Just to clarify...

    I used 4 and started using a 5th disc. This was the first full sizes car I completely sanded down and I'm talking about pretty much all the exterior paint. There's a learning curve to using these discs correctly as too little water and you'll clog the disc and wear it out prematurely, and too much water and the disc will simply hydroplane instead of cut.

    Now follow me on this, if the disc is hydroplaning, this can fool you into thinking it's not cutting...

    So there's a bit of a learning curve to using the discs efficiently.

    I did my best to try to sand as long as I could with a single disc before switching to a new one and it could be I switched prematurely, but I did take a moment to check on un-sanded paint by sanding for a few strokes and then gauging the results and if it looked like cutting efficiency was falling off then I switched discs.

    I've been pretty busy with a lot of other projects but I do have MOST of a write-up on the process I used finished in MS Word and lots of pictures to go with it.

    I did measure how much water I used by filling a 32 ounce spray bottle with water and then after I was completely finished sanding I took a picture of the bottle and it was half full, so that means I used about 16 ounces of water over the entire 1969 El Camino.

    If you can't bring the car up to you... bring yourself down to the car...




    Every square inch was machine sanded, even into tight corners with curved panels. I never used my hand to sand one inch of the El Camino. The backing plate is designed to flex and curve. I did turn the speed down for tight areas, remember there's a huge difference between a DA Polisher keeping a foam pad rotating and a thin sanding disc.




    I could have started out with the #1500 grit paper but I didn't know anything about the paint job except it was a custom paint job and had already been sanded and compound once. The paint was completely swirled out and had lots of RIDS and ARC Scratches everywhere.



    When I come across a project like this I like to play it safe and use the least aggressive product to get the job done and the #3000 Unigrit Disc cuts very good.

    Note I didn't just "scuff" the paint... I sanded it down...

    The white stuff for anyone reading this wondering what that is, that is clear coat paint that has been sanded off and was in the water film on the panel. After the water evaporates off it leaves the clear coat residue which after being abraded is whitish.


    Machine Damp Sanded




    So follow Meguiar's recommendations for using these new Unigrit Sanding Discs, focus on the task at hand and you can't help but get show car results...


    After a "Complete" Machine Polishing Process

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  • DetailFreak517
    replied
    Re: Unigrit Foam Finishing Disc questions

    Originally posted by termigator69 View Post
    On a somewhat different subject matter, what are your thoughts on the DupliColor Paint Shop System? I checked out their website and their system seems easy enough, but as I researched it more on different paint forums, they don't seem to really like it that much for the single reason that it's lacquer based (which they consider yesterday's technology) instead of acrylic or urethane. Any input would be extremely helpful. Thanks.
    I don't see a problem with Lacquer based paints in some applications. It really depends what you're going to use the vehicle for whether or not it's the best choice.

    Have you checked out Eastwood's paint system, or the new paint system from Summit? I've heard very good things about both, and they offer both catalyzed and non-catalyzed systems for you to choose from depending on what you want or need.

    Leave a comment:


  • Michael Stoops
    replied
    Re: Unigrit Foam Finishing Disc questions

    RE: Duplicolor Paint Shop System - I'm afraid I'll have to defer to the painters here on MOL as that's not really my area of expertise. Perhaps SHYNEMAN123 can weigh in here.

    Leave a comment:


  • termigator69
    replied
    Re: Unigrit Foam Finishing Disc questions

    That's a whole lot of good info. Thanks Mike. I'm still in the process of gathering materials for the project. I would like to start and finish during the month of May. If it doesn't get done then, I'll have to push things back to September. I have three kids (Ages 5,7 & 9) and I just can't see myself getting anything done during their summer vacation.


    Mike:
    On a somewhat different subject matter, what are your thoughts on the DupliColor Paint Shop System? I checked out their website and their system seems easy enough, but as I researched it more on different paint forums, they don't seem to really like it that much for the single reason that it's lacquer based (which they consider yesterday's technology) instead of acrylic or urethane. Any input would be extremely helpful. Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • DetailFreak517
    replied
    Re: Unigrit Foam Finishing Disc questions

    Awesome! Thanks for the info, Michael.

    Leave a comment:


  • Michael Stoops
    replied
    Re: Unigrit Foam Finishing Disc questions

    There are a few guidelines to follow when using these discs:

    • Remember that you are damp sanding with these, not wet sanding. Don't presoak the discs and don't flood the surface with water. All you need is a spritz or two of plain water on the surface and the disc. Too much water will cause a hydroplaning situation and you'll lose cut.
    • Keep in mind, too, that your initial pass with a new disc may not result in the level of cut you anticipate. There is a protective coating on these disc (the induction layer) that will need to be worked through first before the disc starts cutting. It's pretty quick to happen, but at first glance it can throw you if you aren't aware of it.
    • If you're going to use an electric D/A please keep in mind that none of them on the market are rated for wet use. Granted, you're not using a lot of water here, but water and electricity don't mix so be cautious. You can do it, and you should experiment with speed settings around 4 to 5. Too slow and you'll dig a bit deeper, too fast and you'll start to hydroplane again and lose cut.
    • Pressure should be no more than the weight of the tool.
    • Regular cleaning of the disc is important as well. A quick spin on the tool against an Ultimate Wipe microfiber towel with very light pressure will clean the disc out very effectively. Do this whether using air tools or electric, of course.

    Mike Phillips may have been overly cautious when using 6 of the 3000 grit discs as Jason Rose tells us you can get away with as few as 2 on a full sized car. Now that's specific to the 3000 grit discs - the lower the grit the faster they'll wear out (as a general rule).

    These discs are designed to be used with a 5/16" stroke tool, which fits well with the G110v2 and pneumatic orbital sanders of similar stroke.

    Leave a comment:


  • DetailFreak517
    replied
    Re: Unigrit Foam Finishing Disc questions

    Originally posted by termigator69 View Post
    I know Mike Phillips said he used 6 3000 grit discs to sand a car for DetailFest. I would guess I'm going to need just a few more.
    Right.... I think he told me 5 total on that El Camino he did. I just wondered if Mr. Pennington would have a different answer. Also curious if tool selection makes any sizable difference in performance of the abrasive product.

    Leave a comment:


  • termigator69
    replied
    Re: Unigrit Foam Finishing Disc questions

    I know Mike Phillips said he used 6 3000 grit discs to sand a car for DetailFest. I would guess I'm going to need just a few more.

    Leave a comment:

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