Re: How do you repair a rock chip with a touch-up paint pen?
Hi Tim.Thanks for the info.
I did answer your original question in another part of the forum.
I agree entirely with what you have said,but would just like to add a bit to the examples:
I will be happy to fully document every piece of work that I do with my vehicle and others.And yes,first chance I get,I will take a pic of the rust spot that I did a few years back.(Can't say precisely,but somewhere before 6/7 years ago). What did the trick for me was using some Clear on top,then sanded that down,to blend.I believe the more traditional way is just to use the color only.Anyway,it's not perfect,but it's not easily noticable either,unless I point it out.Even I have difficulty finding it.As far as metallics go,I realize that there is a visible difference between touching up as opposed to a spray finish and this is something I want to work with soon.Also,these are just my experiences and what has worked for me.
As far as working with a DA goes,I don't have one,so I don't answer peoples threads about 'which pad,product' etc.
I am not a professional,nor do I charge anyone any money and pretend to be a professional.
Any work I do is on my vehicles and freinds vehicles.Unfortunately,around here there are no schools or training for this subject.So,like many,I have to learn by different methods.
The example about the Black hood.Touch ups with a paint stick are a cheap solution.You either leave it alone,touch it up or have the whole hood resprayed.Unfortunately,top surfaces show any imperfections that might be disguised on a side surface,whether it be touch up or blending.
Lastly,I know your not referring to anyone in particular,but I personally would not recommend sanding down coats to anyone.There was one recentley,where someone put a customized part on their car(I can't remember what it was),where he apparentley sprayed it himself and applied the clearcoat after aswell.From what it appeared to me was that he did this part away from the car and not on the car.Just for talking sake,let's say it was a plastic air intake.Now the point to me is here did he do it with proper equipment or a couple of spray cans at 5$'s each..Who knows? In this case,he was wanting to remove some orange peel effect.Apart from that,he was quite happy with his results.I did,in this case suggest that he could try to remove by wetsanding as it wasn't a fixed part of the bodywork,that was not big and he had the ability to respray again if the results were not satisfactory.
The one problem for me here is the Meguiar's product selection.I still havn't got my scratchX 2.0 yet! This also makes it difficult for me on the forum,because I have to try and relate some products to what I am using.
But it's getting better,and I have picked up a lot very quickly....Except the pro line,which is non existent here.The point for me is that,I will keep on trying to improve what's available with Meg's here,because I believe it's a better product,rather than switching to another far more easily available brand.
Anyway Tim,I'm not snappin' back or anything like that,but I just wanted to clear some things up.Possibly,the only resolve for these delicate issues(bodywork damage or repair),is to have them answered only by on line certified professionals and only allow people to put in pics of their experiences without relating it to other peoples dilemas,as much as we all like to help.I would only put it like this:This is a meguiar's detailing forum,not a body repair shop.
As far as Keyboard Commandos go,even backed up with photos,that is not certain either.It's very easy to edit pictures with computers today,plus photos are not the same as what you actually see.I'm not suggesting that's what is.I'm only saying for a minority it's a possibility.Food for Thought.As far as my cars go.I have nuthin' fancy,so for me to do anything like that would have no meaning whatsoever.
I hope you hit my other thread...I can't remember what it was about,but that'll explain why I havn't had time to do many pics.
Hi Tim.Thanks for the info.
I did answer your original question in another part of the forum.
I agree entirely with what you have said,but would just like to add a bit to the examples:
I will be happy to fully document every piece of work that I do with my vehicle and others.And yes,first chance I get,I will take a pic of the rust spot that I did a few years back.(Can't say precisely,but somewhere before 6/7 years ago). What did the trick for me was using some Clear on top,then sanded that down,to blend.I believe the more traditional way is just to use the color only.Anyway,it's not perfect,but it's not easily noticable either,unless I point it out.Even I have difficulty finding it.As far as metallics go,I realize that there is a visible difference between touching up as opposed to a spray finish and this is something I want to work with soon.Also,these are just my experiences and what has worked for me.
As far as working with a DA goes,I don't have one,so I don't answer peoples threads about 'which pad,product' etc.
I am not a professional,nor do I charge anyone any money and pretend to be a professional.
Any work I do is on my vehicles and freinds vehicles.Unfortunately,around here there are no schools or training for this subject.So,like many,I have to learn by different methods.
The example about the Black hood.Touch ups with a paint stick are a cheap solution.You either leave it alone,touch it up or have the whole hood resprayed.Unfortunately,top surfaces show any imperfections that might be disguised on a side surface,whether it be touch up or blending.
Lastly,I know your not referring to anyone in particular,but I personally would not recommend sanding down coats to anyone.There was one recentley,where someone put a customized part on their car(I can't remember what it was),where he apparentley sprayed it himself and applied the clearcoat after aswell.From what it appeared to me was that he did this part away from the car and not on the car.Just for talking sake,let's say it was a plastic air intake.Now the point to me is here did he do it with proper equipment or a couple of spray cans at 5$'s each..Who knows? In this case,he was wanting to remove some orange peel effect.Apart from that,he was quite happy with his results.I did,in this case suggest that he could try to remove by wetsanding as it wasn't a fixed part of the bodywork,that was not big and he had the ability to respray again if the results were not satisfactory.
The one problem for me here is the Meguiar's product selection.I still havn't got my scratchX 2.0 yet! This also makes it difficult for me on the forum,because I have to try and relate some products to what I am using.
But it's getting better,and I have picked up a lot very quickly....Except the pro line,which is non existent here.The point for me is that,I will keep on trying to improve what's available with Meg's here,because I believe it's a better product,rather than switching to another far more easily available brand.
Anyway Tim,I'm not snappin' back or anything like that,but I just wanted to clear some things up.Possibly,the only resolve for these delicate issues(bodywork damage or repair),is to have them answered only by on line certified professionals and only allow people to put in pics of their experiences without relating it to other peoples dilemas,as much as we all like to help.I would only put it like this:This is a meguiar's detailing forum,not a body repair shop.
As far as Keyboard Commandos go,even backed up with photos,that is not certain either.It's very easy to edit pictures with computers today,plus photos are not the same as what you actually see.I'm not suggesting that's what is.I'm only saying for a minority it's a possibility.Food for Thought.As far as my cars go.I have nuthin' fancy,so for me to do anything like that would have no meaning whatsoever.
I hope you hit my other thread...I can't remember what it was about,but that'll explain why I havn't had time to do many pics.

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