1997 BMW 5-Series BLACK

[synenergy52]

Re: 1997 BMW 5-Series BLACK

Ok good advice guys. I'm actually not too much of a noob when it comes to paint. I've been detailing for a long time... few times with machine. I do need experience in that area. It's clearcoat. I've polished it a few times by hand with no paint transfer. Thank god. I'll let you guys know today if I try it... I'll be going to the hardware store for some 3m. Maybe ill try both 1500 and 2000. I'll take pics a long the way. I'm not too worry if I ruin the paint because I'll pay to have it resprayed any way. I figure why not try before I take it in.

[synenergy52]

Re: 1997 BMW 5-Series BLACK

Update:

Silly me, last night (in the dark) i was excited to test out M105. I soaked 3m sandpaper 1500g in water for half an hour w/ soap. And cleaned the front passenegr door nice and good. I proceeded to use my hand (Yeah should of used a dishwashing sponge to wrap it in) and sand half of the door panel. I think i sanded a bit too much. I got m105 by hand and a terry towel hand pad and started to work with m105. It took a lot of passion to remove most of the sanding marks. A lot of passion. But I don't blame the m105. I blame my sanding. I should of took it a bit easier! What pattern and how much should i be sanding?

After much work, i did manage to polish out most of the sanding marks, but had to use meguiars swirl mark remover (#3 cut) and scratchX to get it to a near perfect finish. I'm thinking I should do a VERY light 1500 then follow up with a 2000 grit. Maybe that'll make my M105-by-hand go a lot easier? The hardware store I went to did not have any 2000 grit. Maybe an auto store will.

Wish I had a backing pad w/ my rotary. The results are pretty nice. I'll do some more work and post pics. So I have two questions:

1) Proper sanding direction/technique? I went in a back and forth motion.

2) 1500 grit followed by 2000 grit make my life a whole lot easier since I'm working by hand?

[Pocket_Aces]

Re: 1997 BMW 5-Series BLACK

You need a sanding block for large areas and remember to use light pressure. Chances are you might have put grooves into the paint using no block. Soak the paper overnight before. It might be best if your new to this to say with 2000 grit and move up to 2500 grit.

Working the M105 by hand might be a little difficult on 1500 grit.

[synenergy52]

Re: 1997 BMW 5-Series BLACK

Update: I did order a backing plate from ADS as well as a W7006 Foam Cutting Pad to use with the M105. The thought of W5000 wool cutting pad just scares me since this is my first time. I'm sure it would be fine...

Tonite I wetsanded both upper parts of the passenger side doors on my 97 5-Series.

Background: A previous respray or repair didn't go too well and the appearance of the doors seemed blurry. Seemed mickey mouse when compared to the adjacent perfect rear quarter panel.

I used 1500g 3M sandpaper, soaked in water for 15 minutes or so (in a hurry--excited) and lubricated with soap and water. I had a spray bottle next to me mixed with car wash and water so I can constantly wet the door panel as I sand. Contrary to others advice of using a stick, a sanding block, etc etc. I used my hand. I felt more comfortable this way as I can feel the contour of the door. Not only that, the doors on the 5 series are rounded and I felt a flat surface may not be the best thing.

My last attempt at this a few days ago was sucky. I learned I did not properly or evenly sand the door. I was too afraid. Because of this M105 w/ a foam hand pad did not produce nice results and required a LOT of elbow grease. My advice: Sand evenly and don't be afraid to sand that clear coat! I sanded until there was a consistent white, hazy surface. i.e., no black spots. The blackspots (or dark spots) indicate the low part of the clear coat (So I read) so I sanded lightly and evenly and consistently until those marks dissapeared.

After 1.5 hours, I was finished sanding both right doors. The results looked scary. I plan to use the rotary tomorrow with M105 and the W7006 foam cutting pad (I hope i got the model# right) but decided to give M105 a try by hand...

It worked awesome this time around. Why? I believe it's because I sanded more aggressively than I did before. I am confident I did not take too much clear coat off. We'll see when I hit it with the rotary

I took some crappy pics w/ my blackberry.. I'll be sure to take pics with a real camera when I finish the job tomorrow or sunday.





I'm not sure if the images will show... imageshack changed the way they host.

You can't tell in the pics but the results with M105 by hand look GREAT but not perfect. There are some fine sanding marks which I hope the rotary will take out. But for the most part its glossy.

Here's a pic of the car after a clay barring and wash when I first got it earlier this year. Can you see the two right doors and how they aren't glossy?

[synenergy52]

Re: 1997 BMW 5-Series BLACK

Okay I got my Meguiars W7006 Foam Cutting pad today and used it with my Vector Rotary @ 1500 rpms and M105 Compound. Cleaned the surface thorougly. Keep in mind the finish has 2000 grit sanding marks. I am working on the two passenger doors and the hood only as the previous painter did not sand the clear (wet) after he painted and it looked very blurry and rough.

I can say that this is my first time I so I won't put the blame on Meguiars. The results turned out good in the sense that the finish is glossy and extremely smooth. On the other hand I brought it out to the bright lights and holograms and swirls galore. Oh brother. I also finished with Meguiars #9 Swirl Remover 2.0 (keep that in mind)

Now I followed the youtuve video advice of letting the rotary do the work. I didn't apply any extra pressure. Here are my hypothesis of why I got swirls (other than I'm a noob)

1) Too little product, pad too dry. I primed the pad with Meguiars detailer spray (red bottle) so I'm not sure. If you use too little product, will you get swirls?

2) Dirty pad. I tried cleaning the pad as best I could. I spun the rotary @ 1500 rpm as i ran a piece of cardboard gently across the surface. It seemed to clean out all the stuff. I also tried using a microfiber to do this. I then reprimed with the misting detailer spray and applied product directly to the pad.


Here's how I plan to fix it.


Purchase #83 from ADS and use it with my W7006 pad. Is pad too rough for finishing? Maybe thats my problem?

Do I even need #83? What if I just buy a finishing pad and use it with the Swirl Remover 2.0 I already have? Gah I'm lost.

[synenergy52]

Re: 1997 BMW 5-Series BLACK

Ok I asked Mike Philips what I should do via PM. He suggested I cross-contaminated my W7006 pad and that is the reason for the holograms and micromarring/haze. I switched right from M105 to Swirl Remover 2.0 (#9) I guess that was a no-no.

Other than that, like right now when I parked my car, the finish looks very deep and wet. I am pleased. but out in the light= HAZING!

So as far as my dirty contaminated pad goes, I cleaned it real good with water (I can do that right?) and let it dry. Today when I get home I will hit the two door panels with #9 Swirl Remover 2.0 w/ the clean pad and rotary at 1500 rpms. I guess my question is: Can a W7006 foam cutting pad do a satisfactory, or even a good job at a final polish? (Can I consider #9 Swirl Remover 2.0 a last step before wax?) If not let me know what I can buy at the local pep boys. I'm going to pick up some NXT 2.0.

Edit: I just bought some stuff from ADS. Damn you, Meguiars! :-p I bought a sanding block (flexible one) didnt like the idea of using a pencil as mentioned in one youtube video. I bought 3 sheets of 2000 grit sandpaper (to fix some deep scratches I made onthe hood by doing hand sanding (though the doors came out perfectly with doing it by hand), #83 DACP, W8006 pad, NXT 2.0.

So should I try #9 tonite with Rotary/Clean W7006 pad to remove my hazing/holograms? Or should I wait for #83 and the W8006? Thats the question!!!!!!!!!!