Upgrading to Rotary Buffer

[zey]

Hi all, I need to get some idea about rotary buffer usage on my car detailing hobby. Currently, what I have are listed below:

DeWALT DW443 Random Orbital Buffer
2 pcs. W-8006 Polishing Pad
1 pc. W-9006 Finishing Pad
#83 DACP
#80 SG

I found that these combo is good for general polishing to remove light swirls and mild paint defects. Also, the machine is very noisy and it takes very long time to correct the paint, hence it's very safe to be used. However, there are certain paint defects such as serious water spot etches, acid rain etches, chemical etches, deep scratches, etc...which need rotary buffer to be corrected in much more efficient way and shorter period. The advantages lead me to a thought of upgrading to rotary buffer. Therefore, I've planned to buy the following stuffs:

DeWALT DW849 Rotary Buffer
1pc. W-7006 Cutting Pad
1pc. W-64 Rotary Buffer Backing Plate

The only thing which I'm lacking of is the skill. Please advice me on the above setup. I haven't thought of using wool levelling pad and #85 DC 2.0. Thanks!

[Fidel]

Actually, I did the other way around. I first learned how to use a Rotary (Makita) before finally purchasing a DeWalt 443.

My initial observation with the DeWalt is that it takes a LONG time to do the same work that a Rotary can do. Also, there are some defects which only a Rotary can practically correct.

With regards to usage, its very much different. Try to start at a low setting first and keep the Rotary moving. You'll be surprised on how fast a Rotary works a product! Be sure to use the right product-pad combo to avoid those nasty holograms / buffer swirls.

BTW, DACP and Speed Glaze works beautifully with a Rotary. But personally, I prefer to to finish my work with the DeWalt.

Will try to add more and hopefully other members of MOL can chime in.

hope this helps!

[zey]

Fidel, nice to hear from you! Initially I didn't plan to invest in a rotary buffer because I never encounter any serious paint defect problem. However, recently I found out partial of my car was attacked with some chemical substances which caused the paint surface to have microblisters. Using ROB only helps abit and it takes very long time. Also, alot of products were used. Now I wish to give rotary buffer a try. I've played around with it starting with 1000rpm and it's not that bad. I hope with extreme care, it won't burn the paint.

[zey]

Today I've met up with our local Meguiar's distributor detailing expert - Mr. William. He recommended me Makita 9227c over DeWALT DW849. The reason being Makita is lighter and more powerful at low speed. Also, the speed range of Makita is 600-3000rpm, which enables me to start practicing at low speed. I've also purchased W-64 backing plate for my 6.5" pads and a W-7006 6.5" cutting pad. Below are the snapshots:

[Tim Lingor]

Hi Zey,

Welcome to the world of the rotary buffer!!! I own 2 Makita's and 1 Dewalt and would not part with them for anything!

The rotary is just not for paint correction. The polishing effect created by the direct drive rotary creates a finish that looks more "liquid" (a phrased coined by my friend Boss 429). This look can not be achieved without the rotary, IMHO!!

Start off slowly, by using slower speeds and less aggressive products. Using a W-8006 Polishing Pad and #80 Speed Glaze would be a great combo to start with. Run the rotary at ~ 1000 - 1300 RPM.

Good luck and keep us posted!

Tim

[zey]

I own 2 Makita's and 1 Dewalt and would not part with them for anything!

Woah! 2 Makitas! Why do you need 2 units?

I noticed when I use ROB to apply #80 with W-8006, it's merely filling up light swirls, not much of paint removing being done. I believe with the use of rotary, it'll produce a more permanent gloss on the paintwork!

I would like to get a feel of using it by setting the machine to '2' (900rpm) and use some #80/#83 with W-8006. Will touch the W-7006 only when I'm exprienced enough. My concern is to remove acid rain etching and bugs impression on the painted platic bumper. Hope it won't burn up the paint easily since heat is harder to be spreaded/dissipated on plastics.

[Tim Lingor]

Hi Zey

Why 2 Makita's? One for each hand!!! Seriously, they are 2 different models: my first Makita rotary which is about 16 years old(!) and my 2nd Makita is a 9227. Both have provided excellent service over the years!!!

Meguiar's #80 does work well with the PC; it just needs to be worked REALLY well. It usually takes 3-5 minutes for the #80 to break down for a 2'x2' area. BUT with the rotary, that time will be a lot faster (depending on speed of course). Plus, I prefer the finish created by the rotary!!!!

When it comes to your bumper, be REAL careful not to get the paint too hot. The plastic composite bumpers do not dissipate the heat created by the buffing process very well. As such, it is easy to over heat the paint. The key is take your time and use slower speeds. I would also use the W-8006 Pad as the W-7006 can make the plastic composite pretty hot. Here is a thread I did on wet sanding where I show what can happen if the plastic gets too hot. I purposely worked the area too much just to show what can happen.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3838

After some practice, you will love the rotary!!

Tim

[zey]

2hotford, thanks for the info! I have another question: Why can't I turn in my backing plate all the way down to the length of the shaft, unlike the original backing plate which is supplied along the machine? I believe W-64 fits all 5/8" diameter shaft, and 9227c has 5/8" shaft too.

[zey]

Hi all, I have come across a local distributor who carries Flexipads backing plates with spindle thread of size M16 X 2. The main purpose for this is to hold the Meguiar's W-7006, W-8006 and W-9006 6.5" foam pad. Further info of this product:

Product name: Flexipad Foam Support Backing Pad
Size: 117mm (4.5 inch)
Thread size: M16 X 2
Max RPM: 2500



My question is, will it be too thin to be used since it doesn't contain a layer of polyurethene/EPDM rubber? Thanks!