First time using the Makita 9227C

[wht4drfa5]

So I got my Makita 9227C yesterday in the mail from ADS. Man I get my stuff quick from them. Anyway, I went to my buddies house to try it out on a practice hood he had laying around. I tried various methods. Wet sanded w/ 2000 grit sand paper followed by M85 via cut n shine wool pad, M105 via soft pad 2.0 polishing pad, and M205 via soft pad 2.0 finishing pad in one section.(still had some swirls left behind) M86 with a cut n shine wool pad. Didn't see much out of that combo. Does M86 only work with the solo pads? If so i have to order more stuff!! I'm running out of room as it is. And then I hit a section using M85 via cut n shine wool pad, followed by 105/205 w/ the same pads as before. I told my friend to do a section as i did w/ the whole wet sanding, 85, 105, and 205. He got better results than I did.(little to no swirls left behind) I have pics to put up when I get the chance. Not the best tho that's for sure.

If I have a problem with the Makita walking away from me when go certain directions what would cause this?? Am I only supposed to move it one way? Am I not supposed to use it as i would a DA?(you know back and fourth, side to side) I noticed it doesn't do it when i angle it but I know angling is bad when it comes to using a rotary buffer. So if anyone could give me some input on what I was doing wrong or trying something else for next time I give this thing a shot, I would appreciate it. As of now I wouldn't trust myself near any car with a rotary in my hands LMAO. Well check back later for the pics I'm gonna post so you can check out my not so good work haha. But in my defense it was my first time using a rotary. But I can't wait to try it more and more so I can gain some experience with it.

[Andrew C.]

Re: First time using the Makita 9227C

When it feels like it is walking/running away from you, that is most of the time caused from not having the pad flat on the surface. What happens is that if it is not flat, one edge of the pad will tend to "grab" the paint and then since the pad is spinning, it will cause it to walk away from you.

Keep in mind the pad spins in a clockwise direction. Try experimenting by tilting your pad forward, backward, left, and right, that way you can see how it runs away when you are not flat. When you extend further away from your body, you will have a tendency to tilt the pad more, since you are having to reach further.

Hope this helps

[Michael Stoops]

Re: First time using the Makita 9227C

M86 So1o really was designed as a full system - liquid and various pads plus the backing plate - but that doesn't mean you can't use the liquid with different pads.

It is a bit curious that you're cutting with M85/wool and then following with M105/foam polishing. M105 is the more aggressive of the two so we would suggest going straight to M105/wool following your wet sanding on this test hood. Make sure you're giving it enough grunt, too. 1800 rpm is pretty common speed for removal of sanding marks. If you're going much slower you may be struggling to remove them, depending on final grit used, hardness of paint, quality of sanding marks, etc.

As for movement of the tool over the paint, yes, you would do this very similarly to how you work a D/A. When you compared the work you and friend did using the same products and pads, you mentioned that he had fewer swirls than you did. Are you talking about holograms from the process (this is what pros will generally refer to as swirls) or other defects that are commonly lumped into a general "swirls" category? If it's holograms, then that's likely down to your friend keeping the pad flatter than you do and/or moving the tool more slowly over the paint - especially in the final buffing stages.

[BlackScreaminMachine]

Re: First time using the Makita 9227C

Yea, I learned on my bro's Makita and I am learning now with my own. My stuff just showed up but what I can tell you as far as technique.

I am right Handed mind you.

I use the Hoop that comes in the kit. Holding it with my left hand. The taking my right and twisting it slightly like cracking a throttle to get it off the surface flatly. Then I move left to right, down right to left, down left to right in a single, even, fluid motion letting the weight of the buffer to do the work.

One Click below #2 setting is what I run. Less if I am spreading on product but thats rare, I either do a line that is parralle to the area I am working in, or dabs every 12-14 inchs and as I move, it picks up more product.

[TH0001]

Re: First time using the Makita 9227C

So I got my Makita 9227C yesterday in the mail from ADS. Man I get my stuff quick from them. Anyway, I went to my buddies house to try it out on a practice hood he had laying around. I tried various methods. Wet sanded w/ 2000 grit sand paper followed by M85 via cut n shine wool pad, M105 via soft pad 2.0 polishing pad, and M205 via soft pad 2.0 finishing pad in one section.(still had some swirls left behind) M86 with a cut n shine wool pad. Didn't see much out of that combo.

The reason you didn't see much out of that combo is because polishing with a rotary polisher is as much an art form as it is a skill. The ultimate results you achieve with the tool is going to depend on your relative skill with that tool and your mastery of it.

A chisel is a great tool for Michelangelo but in my six year old's hands it is an ER visit waiting to happen. I know it can be fun to go out and start sanding, playing with different 'combo's', but your focus at this point should focus on rotary technique.

Does M86 only work with the solo pads?

No, M86 works well on most paint's with most techniques. Kevin Brown, for example, can use M86 on a ORBITAL polisher to remove sanding marks and finish to a 100 percent swirl free finish but using different techniques. Because he is so knowledgeable he will use different pads to augment his techniques, often on the fly, with out much thought. At this point I Would focus on what you have and learning to use that, instead of getting more product.

If I have a problem with the Makita walking away from me when go certain directions what would cause this?? Am I only supposed to move it one way? Am I not supposed to use it as i would a DA?(you know back and fourth, side to side) I noticed it doesn't do it when i angle it but I know angling is bad when it comes to using a rotary buffer. So if anyone could give me some input on what I was doing wrong or trying something else for next time I give this thing a shot, I would appreciate it. As of now I wouldn't trust myself near any car with a rotary in my hands LMAO. Well check back later for the pics I'm gonna post so you can check out my not so good work haha. But in my defense it was my first time using a rotary. But I can't wait to try it more and more so I can gain some experience with it.

A rotary will steer because of slight changes in the angle of the pad realitve to the surface. If you watch a professional with a rotary, you may see them only polish with just one arm. They are able to steer with rotary by slightly twisting the right, pressing part of the pad down harder, and driving the rotary in the opposite direction.

With a little experience the driving characteristics of the rotary because intrinsic and you will find yourself steering the machine through complex body curves with precision, and you may not even realize how your doing it. Just remember the machine takes a while to learn and a experience.

As far as holding the pad flat, I would say 'don't buff on an edge' is a more appropriate term. If you hold it 100% flat to the surface (which is impossible to do as you move it around, particularly on the curves of a car) then any small change in angle is going to create steering. I buff at a slight angle (the pad appears flat to the paint) which makes it easier for me, personally. You never want to buff at an extreme angle, but keep most of the pad on the paint.

Before running out an trying new products or sanding anything else, slow down, learn the machine, and then move up in aggressiveness and more complex curves. Best of luck