hello i was just wondering about how long #83 dacp takes to break down with a rotary buffer as opposed to the PC. i know the pc can take between 3-6 minutes how much quicker is this process with the rotary. thanks
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Hey,
Working #83 DACP with a rotary spinning 1750 RPM, takes only takes a couple of minutes or less for a 2'x2' area. Of course, this depends on the amount of product, the amount of pressure being applied, the type of pad being use etc... Many, many variables. However, #83 will break down far faster than with a PC.
Using a rotary in order to reduce time, is not really what most people use one for. The rotary can obtain a better finish than other means, IMHO. But it can also damage finish really easily if one is not careful.
Tim
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Tim thanks for the reply. I definitely understand that a rotray can damage a finish if not used right thats why i was asking how long it would take to break down #83 b/c i dont want to make too many passes over it and burn the paint or anything. I guess the way i worded the question was decieving b/c im not really looking to use a rotary to save time but rather achieve better results. How many passes for a 2X2 area would be suffient with a rotary to break down the product? thanks again
Frank
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Originally posted by viper20
How many passes for a 2X2 area would be sufficient with a rotary to break down the product? thanks again
Frank
running your foam pad over the surface for anywhere from 4-8 passes should put you in the ball park for having the diminishing abrasives completely broken down. The determining factor will be the pressure expended onto the head of the buffer and the arm spread at which you move the rotary buffer over the panel.
Just to note... even though the diminishing abrasives have been completely broken down, this doesn't mean the defect is completely removed. Sometimes it may take a second application.
If one or two applications of #83 DACP has not completely removed the defect, then either the defect is deep enough and the paint is hard enough that removing it will require a more aggressive product, or the defect is too deep to safely remove and in this case you will be better off to merely improve the appearance of the defect and not try to completely remove the defect.
Mike
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Mike,
Can you say whether or not age of paint is related to hardness, the older the paint the harder it gets? I'm wondering if some older clear coats are going to need a wool pad for a defect between maring and deep scratches.
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Hi Bill,
If I may answer....
Paint hardness does not seem to be related to the paint's age, IMHO. I have worked on older paint that was hard and others REALLY soft! Same with new BC/CC. I did a brand new Chevy truck a while back that had very soft paint. Yet, a new Ford I completed had paint hard as nails!
So, essentially, each paint needs to be treated as being unique.
Mike,
Great explanation!!!
Frank
I have to agree with Mike. Like I said, the variables such as pressure on the buffer etc. can make a big difference in the amount of time necessary to break down the product. I usually buff the product until only a slight dust/residue remains. Do NOT dry buff!
It takes practice learning to use the rotary, and how each product responds to it. Like Mike said, it is hard to explain on a computer. Therefore, the best advice is to obtain some practice panels and give it a try.In the end, you will really enjoy using a rotary!!
Tim
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