M105 and the Rotary

[zx9r23]

I received my first supply of M105 (thanks ADS!) and I was trying it out with the rotary. During the application the M105 dried out very quickly and was tough to remove at that point. The surface was cool, so any suggestions/ideas on how to proceed? Do you start off applying the M105 at a lower speed so it doesn’t get warm and dry out? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: M105 and the Rotary

Try using more product to a smaller area.

How much product are you using?
How big of an area are you buffing?
Don't buff till the product is dry.



Keep in mind a dry buffing pad will absorb some of the liquid of the product so when you first start out you need to be conscience of this and expect to use more product till your pad breaks in. Some people like to break their pad in manually before buffing by simply applying and working some of the product onto the face of the pad using your bare hands, now knows as the KB Method.

[ClearlyCoated]

Re: M105 and the Rotary

The problem might be with the rotary and perhaps using too high of a speed setting. Because a rotary is a direct drive circular polisher, heat will build up much quicker as opposed to using a dual action polisher. What did you have the speed set to? What pads are you using?

EDIT: Sorry, just saw your comment that the finish surface remained cool. My observations are moot :

[zx9r23]

Re: M105 and the Rotary

How much product are you using?

How big of an area are you buffing?
Don't buff till the product is dry.

I'd primed the pad and I was putting a 7" strip of product down working approximately a 12"x12" area. I picked up the bead and turned the rotary in the other direction and the product was already drying. I NEED HELP!

The problem might be with the rotary and perhaps using too high of a speed setting. Because a rotary is a direct drive circular polisher, heat will build up much quicker as opposed to using a dual action polisher. What did you have the speed set to? What pads are you using?

You might be right with this one, but I was going at it at ~1000 rpms. I didn’t think this would be too fast.

I'll try again tonight at the slowest speed and see what happens, but any suggestions in the mean time would be great!

Thanks again for your speedy responses.

[PorscheGuy997]

Re: M105 and the Rotary

Is this a new pad?

Some new pads will tend to soak up product. If this happens, go ahead and pick up another bead of product.

[zx9r23]

Re: M105 and the Rotary

Is this a new pad?

Some new pads will tend to soak up product. If this happens, go ahead and pick up another bead of product.

It was a new pad, but I primed it -- which is why I was surprised to see this. When I picked up the next bead of product it did the same.

[Rebel442]

Re: M105 and the Rotary

i dont know if this is any help but i found with a new pad regardless of priming that it would always absorb alot more then a broken in pad (obviously) and because of that there would be less play time with product...

i would prime it as you have...but then add some product to the pad before buffing with it and manually work it in yourself...then after that re prime it...

that way there will be less absorption and more play time...thats what i tend to do and its worked for me in the past...

also especially with rotary watch operating temp as more heat makes products dry faster....but you already got that under control

[Mike Phillips]

Re: M105 and the Rotary

It was a new pad, but I primed it -- which is why I was surprised to see this. When I picked up the next bead of product it did the same.

Try buffing during the early morning and see if you see an improvement, as in a cool surface and cool temperatures.

Besides that you can try this,

Meguiar's Official Position

Using a wetting-agent with M105 and M205

Also, be sure to clean you pad often and always wipe off any spent residue before adding new products.

[10degreesbtdc]

Re: M105 and the Rotary

I found that M105 and M205 can dry out quicker than diminishing abrasive products, especially with a new pad (new purple foamed wool and foam pads for me) on a rotary or my new Flex at higher, cutting speeds. A tip from an experienced paint restorer helped me tremendously I hope he doesn't mind me giving away one of his secrets.

Keep a spray bottle of water nearby, hanging on your pants pocket or belt. Lightly spritz the pad (try one squeeze from 12" away at first) or very lightly on the paint as soon as product appears to begin to dry or even after applying product before starting to buff with a somewhat dry pad. Re-spritz when needed. This keeps the product wet, the pad wet, and once your pad has been in use awhile it has enough product on it to just spritz and not add product as often and you can keep working the product, especially when you have removed the defects and you just want to burnish to bring up gloss. Too much water, however, can create a real mess causing smearing and sling-off, so the key is "lightly" spritz with a fine mist when needed. As with any technique the key is using the right amount of product and water to keep it moist. You can't do this using water with diminishing abrasives. You can use quick detailer spray for those, right?.

Hey, I'm no pro...yet! But so far this has worked very well for me and I use less product than I would trying to keep the pad wet by re-applying product. I also found with M105 and M205 I don't need quite as fast a speed setting, but that's more a matter of getting better with these two buffers before I crank it up.

Hope this helps! If it does, don't thank me, thank Nick Chapman!