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machine glaze #3

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  • machine glaze #3

    Heard alot about #7 & #5 being used,wondering if any one use's #3,i don't hear much about it.After Mike explaned to me how the rotory works vs pc ,the different action of the 2 machines makes perfect sence.On the label "to be used with rotory",[#3] when it's the last step befor wax ,i want to eliminate any swirls,trails holograms being so close finishing,GOT ME PUZZLED. anybody know?

  • #2
    Re: machine glaze #3

    last step before wax, is polishing.

    if you want to remove any swirl trace, if you compounded you'll need to level it more with something more aggressive like M83, and then step down to M80 with a rotary or even better, with a PC to ensure a flawless finish.

    in case you use the 3M system, after rubbing compound, you should use a swirl mark remover and step down to the ultrafina polish to remove the last of swirls with the rotary.

    machine glaze is almost a pure polish, since its abrasive level is 1, so that's better for giving a car a super shine. then use a wax as your LSP and don't apply it with a rotary, unless you're using M66 for a quick detail

    hope this helps.
    " Sometimes logic is your friend (Mike-In-Orange)"

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    • #3
      Re: machine glaze #3

      Thanks Chex, you've helped me out in past.I used #9 & 8006 polish pad. came out pretty good 06 black focus,but very slight,light holograms.Mike suggested #80 by hand,because i could ALMOST get them out by a microfiber towel,it' seems that would be a bear to do.have you used #3 machine glaze with rotory without leaving anything "behind"?I've thought about trying a microfiber bonnet on a polish pad,seeing the only "cutting action" is the microfiber bonnet.or will i end up having the same thing? i'm hoping to get a pc this winter,then NO problem any thoughts on that one? thanks Chex, mavrick.

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      • #4
        Re: machine glaze #3

        Nope, I haven't used #3. However, if #9 is leaving slight holograms, you should step up to a more aggressive procedure. in this case, you should try #80 with a W8000 foam polishing pad. As a real time consuming alternative, you can keep doing it with #9 until the defect is gone

        I have not used a PC, but hope to have one soon too. however, #80 and a w8006 foam polishing pad should remove those light buffer swirls at a 4.5 speed.

        Microfiber bonnets have been designed to remove waxes or polishes, so there would be no cutting action.

        My suggestion here would be to work #80 with a W8000 foam polishing pad and a rotary since that's what you have to do your job. If that doesn't do the job, ste up to M83.

        If you use the 3M system, Use the PIII swirl mark remover or the PIII trizact polish.

        Just remember to apply enough pressure to cut swirls and not gloss them over (mask them with the oils from the polish)

        hope this helps
        " Sometimes logic is your friend (Mike-In-Orange)"

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: machine glaze #3

          ive found #3 works better on single stage paints, dont get me wrong its very good on clear coats makes you work harder than #80,but just as good.but on single stages its great for getting depth
          Noswirler

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          • #6
            Re: machine glaze #3

            Originally posted by Chex View Post
            .

            if you want to remove any swirl trace, if you compounded you'll need to level it more with something more aggressive
            That's not always true, in this example he may have removed all swirls except for the ones he's leaving in by using a tool in which the pad is rotating on the surface and leaving behind the trace swirls. This is why there was the recommendation to change the action of how the last polishing products were being applied. Since he didn't have access to a dual action polisher, if you remove the rotary buffer from the option list, about the only thing left is a traditional orbital buffer or your hand.

            We're off today and actually buffing out a car, (note the time of this post, it's 5:15am PST), so no time to write-up the blowing air analogy.

            #3 is a pure polish, i.e. no ingredientes in the formula with the intended purpose of removing or abrading paint. It came out probably in the 1920' to the 1940's, don't know for sure.

            It's a wetter version of M07 thus the reason it can be applied using a rotary buffer.

            Later...
            Mike Phillips
            760-515-0444
            showcargarage@gmail.com

            "Find something you like and use it often"

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: machine glaze #3

              Thanks guys,it's 95% great remember it's black06 focus.i do believe it's the action of the rotory, like Mike says,it makes sense,very light trace swirls.I know it's been awhile ONLY 18YRS yeh really,but i did do it for aliving on cadillac dealer and final prep for the auto show [detroit].It seems i've haven'nt lost all my rotory "skills" you know black shows everything.So would a orbital work? till i get a pc,or just a waste of money,POLISHING SURE HAS CHANGED,the paint seems "different" to polish thats why i'd like to attend a detailing class if it comes to detroit,michigan area,THANKS again everyone MEGUIARS is a great site! mavrick.

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