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Your short list of rotary polishes?

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  • #1

    Your short list of rotary polishes?

    My new Hitachi rotary should be showing up tomorrow. I'll probably stick with 6.5" pads as they seem a little safer, easier to use on curvy cars, and I already have a bunch.

    But I am wondering what polishes to use. I only have #83 and #80. Is there a better go-to polish that isn't too aggressive to start out with? I'm hesitant to use #83 because I have a lot of problems with it via Cyclo and PC. So I don't want something that further complicates the process. But I'm not sure I want to go stronger except maybe on small areas for specific isolated defects, and after I'm more comfortable with the rotary. #80 would probably be great, except I doubt it will accomplish anything I can't accomplish via the Cyclo.

    So what are your go-to polishes that aren't super heavy cutting, but not so mild as to achieve results easily obtained via an orbital?

    I'm wondering if #2 would be worth a shot?

    The goals at first are mostly just to practice and at the same time bring up the quality of the finish on the Regal and Nissan, mostly just overall mild/medium swirls/spiderwebs, and just paint that isn't given a ton of attention. Probably nothing an orbital couldn't fix 80-90%. Then ultimately to remove stubborn waterspotting from the Corvette. DACP and orange cutting pads via Cyclo reduced them a bit in appearance, but they are still quite there (and may be unfixable, who knows).

    Any tips about fiberglass polishing would be appreciated as well. I assume it's not unlike plastic as far as heat dissipation, but hopefully the paint is attached better on fiberglass and is somewhat more resistant to peeling away or burning?
    1990 Corvette ZR-1 Bright Red with Red interior Hear it!
    2002 Aurora 4.0 Cherry Metallic with Neutral interior Hear it!
    1997.5 Regal GS Jasper Green Pearl with Medium Gray interior
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  • #2
    you should watch the meguiars video at 25mins in
    they use 84 with a rotary and these deep looking scratches dissapear i had to re watch it several times to make sure i was seeing it right!
    http://www.bettercarcare.com/articles.php?articleId=31&page=9
    Patrick Yu
    2003 Honda Accord
    2008 Honda Accord EX-L V6

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    • #3
      I bought #66 for the end caps on my 5th wheel (fiberglass), but since then I have found it is really a great way to polish auto finishes also.... It has both abrasives and polish in it, and its pretty safe with the rotary, I found it hard to burn with it...

      I haven't really played with any other compounds or polishes on the rotary yet...
      Arizona Corvette Enthusiasts
      08 Atomic Orange Metallic C6 LS3 Z51 4LT
      98 Torch Red Convertible * SOLD
      82 Collector Edition * SOLD

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      • #4
        Originally posted by sneek
        you should watch the meguiars video at 25mins in
        they use 84 with a rotary and these deep looking scratches dissapear i had to re watch it several times to make sure i was seeing it right!
        http://www.bettercarcare.com/article...leId=31&page=9
        I have it on tape. I'm not trying to make deep scratches disappear, though. I want something mediumish that does real work but that is ok to "get aquainted" with the rotary with (I've used them before, but not a lot).
        1990 Corvette ZR-1 Bright Red with Red interior Hear it!
        2002 Aurora 4.0 Cherry Metallic with Neutral interior Hear it!
        1997.5 Regal GS Jasper Green Pearl with Medium Gray interior

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        • #5
          M84 and M80 are pretty easy to work with using a rotary buffer and a foam pad, the most important thing to remember is to clean you pad often and don't overuse your product.
          Mike Phillips
          760-515-0444
          showcargarage@gmail.com
          "Find something you like and use it often"

          Comment

          • #6
            I have found M80 (with a polishing pad-yellow) to be a great "goto" polish for most applications that require a rotary. It's pretty easy to use and creates a great finish. Should I need to go at something that requires more polishing (like deeper scratches) I'll move up to M83 with a polishing or cutting pad.

            M80 with a polishing pad is usually a good starting point for work that requires a rotary......meaning that I've tried the PC and it wasn't enough.

            Moving down the scale is #9, but it is pretty mild.
            -Bob
            NXTti graduate, Meguiars Ford/SEMA Team

            "All Corvette's are red, the rest are mistakes" - John Heinricy (Corvette Engineer)

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            • #7
              IMO, you won't have any problem using the #83 or even #84 for what you describe. IMHO, the Meguiars 80's series *really* comes alive when used via rotary.

              As Mike said, keeping a clean pad and using as little product as you can will keep things moving along.

              When working with the rotary I like to use a little #34 to remove my products with, makes it much easier if youy accidently "catch a hanger."

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              • #8
                Alright, well I guess I'll start it off with #80 then and see how things go. I may try #83 but I really have problems with it by orbital.

                I'll put #84 and a Meg's backing plate on the top of my list of things to pick up. Thanks for the feedback folks! I can't wait to try it out! Really, I can't wait to be good with the rotary, though I realize that will only come with time, if at all.
                1990 Corvette ZR-1 Bright Red with Red interior Hear it!
                2002 Aurora 4.0 Cherry Metallic with Neutral interior Hear it!
                1997.5 Regal GS Jasper Green Pearl with Medium Gray interior

                Comment

                • #9
                  What problems do you have with it via an orbital? Removal?

                  IMO, that will solved when using it via the rotary. It does have a little learning curve, but nothing too bad.

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Aurora40, I'd agree with using M80 to start on the rotary. It's characteristics cross over well from DA to rotary use.

                    Polishing the ZR-1 is similar to the composite bumpers...keep that machine moving and keep your pad flat. Avoid over-working one spot and you'll be OK. Let the product do the work...don't try to compensate by spending more time on one area or pressing exceptionally hard. If the stains aren't removed, then you'll have to use other products and processes.

                    Incidentally, I taught a relative about overworking a Corvette finish and M83. We had an '85 with a factory red finish that was going to be redone soon, so I intentionally had him over-work the hood with M83 and W8000 on a rotary. Sure enough, as the heat built on the hood from concentrating in one spot and moving the machine too slowly, this big blister formed. Worry not, though...it took a lot of passes and speed that was slower than normal to induce the damage.

                    Best of luck!
                    See the big picture, enjoy the details

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      With #84 and #80, I'm all in. I don't feel the need to use #83. It's too aggressive for the little jobs and not aggressive enough for the big jobs. The rate of breakdown for #84 is much more in tune with the rotary at low speed than that of #83. You can vary its action by varying the pads, if you want. Again, the polishing pad is the workhorse. I've only used the cutting pad a couple times.



                      Tom
                      As the light changed from red to green to yellow and back to red again, I sat there thinking about life. Was it nothing more than a bunch of honking and yelling? Sometimes it seemed that way.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by ebpcivicsi
                        What problems do you have with it via an orbital? Removal?

                        IMO, that will solved when using it via the rotary. It does have a little learning curve, but nothing too bad.
                        Yes, it turns into glue for me. And it's a very fine line between too little product and too much. I can get nice results from it, and remove some stuff I didn't think it would remove with the Cyclo, but never easily. I only use it for spot problems due to that.
                        1990 Corvette ZR-1 Bright Red with Red interior Hear it!
                        2002 Aurora 4.0 Cherry Metallic with Neutral interior Hear it!
                        1997.5 Regal GS Jasper Green Pearl with Medium Gray interior

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Aurora40
                          Yes, it turns into glue for me. And it's a very fine line between too little product and too much. I can get nice results from it, and remove some stuff I didn't think it would remove with the Cyclo, but never easily. I only use it for spot problems due to that.
                          I have the same problem with #83 and #82 with the PC/Cyclo, and with #85 and #83 on the rotary. They got the job done, but they are a PAIN to remove.
                          I want 4" Softbuff pads!

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