Advice on buying rotary please. ..

[96Lude]

I am thinking of selling my PC 7424 and buying a rotary. However, I have seen many different price ranges for what seems like the same tool. I know that the Makita 9227C is highly regarded and people love it. However, I came across this one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92623

The price difference is rather large, so I was wondering what the real difference is. I don't care much for the warranty since I won't be using it that often which means it should last me a while. They seem to be nearly identical in features.

Is it really worth buying the Makita if I'm not a professional detailer?

Thanks.

[Mosca]

I have both tools. The CE is OK, it works. It bogs down a little bit at speed, and it is loud, heavy, and it vibrates a bit.

The Makita is a high quality tool that is quiet and smooth, and much lighter.

Both tools work well. IMO the Makita is worth 5-6 times what the CE is worth, but if you're only going to use a rotary once a year or so you can get the CE and keep the $100 in your pocket. If at some point you want to move up the the Makita, you'd only be out $25 and you still have the CE as a backup tool or for use when a friend comes over. That's the logic I used, and the path I followed.

I will say that it is easier to learn on the better tool.

Keep the PC. There are a lot of jobs that are too big for by hand, but not big enough for the rotary.


Tom

[Hannibal]

I found a makita 9227C at a pawn shop this past friday. Click here
9227C

[Djmigs]

Hi 96Lude

i agree with Mosca, Keep the pc because you dont always need to bring out the rotary plus since a pc is lighter.....

also if you decide to go with the CE then i would suggest this model- item #46507- then the one you choose because of it bogging down, then one i suggest has a powerful motor then the one you chose plus it UL tested.. CE rotary item #46507 call customer care service online order desk and give them that item number, i dont see it on there website, if they dont have it but its on order wait in my opinion...also if im not mistaken HF is having a sale see if you can get a rain check also i think they have a 20% coupon but im not sure subscribe to there emails for specails for catalog items....overall even if you get it regualr price it more powerful then the one you listed .... i have this model..

yes the makita is worth it but like some say if your a weekend detailer user (personal use on your own vehicle) start with the CE, if your a full time detailer go with the best makita, im sure later on you will step up to a makita like me....good luck

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

Originally posted by Mosca
I have both tools. The CE is OK, it works. It bogs down a little bit at speed, and it is loud, heavy, and it vibrates a bit.

The Makita is a high quality tool that is quiet and smooth, and much lighter.

Both tools work well. IMO the Makita is worth 5-6 times what the CE is worth, but if you're only going to use a rotary once a year or so you can get the CE and keep the $100 in your pocket. If at some point you want to move up the the Makita, you'd only be out $25 and you still have the CE as a backup tool or for use when a friend comes over. That's the logic I used, and the path I followed.

I will say that it is easier to learn on the better tool.

Keep the PC. There are a lot of jobs that are too big for by hand, but not big enough for the rotary.


Tom

I agree with this sentiment 100%. However, I'd also recommend checking out the DeWalt DW849, and Porter Cable 7428 before just grabbing a Makita. I came awful close to buying a PC7428 today on ebay, but then the price went a bit too high for me. I figured since I know how reliable/unstoppable my G100 has been, I'd check out their rotary (which, BTW, having used one once that belonged to a friend, I can say is a VERY nice machine).

I currently have the CE unit, which works "ok" but is a bit underpowered for some situations I've run into. Again, though, don't sell your PC/G100. Even after I get my hands on a good rotary, I can still guarantee you'll be prying my G100 from my cold, dead hands.

[Superior Shine]

I came awful close to buying a PC7428 today on ebay

Thats funny, I was eye-balling that as well!!

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

Originally posted by Superior Shine
Thats funny, I was eye-balling that as well!!

Yeah I bid on it with like 3 minutes to spare; but I was instantly outbid. I figured if I could get it for $100 or less I could justify purchasing it NOW instead of waiting for spring, but as it was I don't know how much higher I would've needed to go to snag it.

[OctaneGuy]

I'd have to disagree about recommending a CE to anybody, especially if you're a beginner. While I'm a person who believes that you don't need to buy more tool than your skill allows, there are dramatic differences between the Makita and the CE, and I'd say once you're experienced with a rotary, then it's easy enough to handle something that's less precise like the CE.

The one feature that stands out on my Makita is simply that you can gradually accelerate the buffer--moving from a crawl up until the maximum RPM setting that you've set. So for instance, say you've set the Makita to not go higher than 1000 RPM's, then with different trigger pressure you can slowly accelerate the buffer from 0 to 1000RPMs. Now why is that good?

Well, preventing splatter for one. I apply my chemical in a line on my paint. I move from Right to Left to pick up the chemical. By smearing the chemical against the paint at a slow speed, then coming back at a higher speed, I can keep splatter to a minimum. btw, I learned this by watching Joe (Superior Shine) and Mike Phillips.

This isn't possible with the CE

Another thing to realize is that a rotary and a PC work hand in hand. You can't dump the PC, thinking the rotary will do everything a PC can but faster. I prefer to think of the PC as a finishing tool.

In a beginners hands, the PC is a safe and effective way to buffing out your paint, because it doesn't do much work. A rotary works much faster, but almost always instills buffer swirls, and well guess what tool do you need to finish off the rotary work? The PC to remove those buffer swirls.

So if you really want to be doing high quality work, bite the bullet, keep the PC, and buy a good rotary--whether we're talking Hitachi, DeWalt, Makita, or Porter Cable--make sure to master that tool and you'll find things a lot easier when the tool isn't fighting you from learning good technique.

[inthedetails]

Has anyone used either the Metabo or Fein?

They seem to "have all that" and are very light.

[tomstin]

Try here http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/S...d1d+1134461365

$169 +$25 gas card.

[gb387]

Originally posted by Shiny Lil Detlr
I agree with this sentiment 100%. However, I'd also recommend checking out the DeWalt DW849, and Porter Cable 7428 before just grabbing a Makita. I came awful close to buying a PC7428 today on ebay, but then the price went a bit too high for me. I figured since I know how reliable/unstoppable my G100 has been, I'd check out their rotary (which, BTW, having used one once that belonged to a friend, I can say is a VERY nice machine).

I currently have the CE unit, which works "ok" but is a bit underpowered for some situations I've run into. Again, though, don't sell your PC/G100. Even after I get my hands on a good rotary, I can still guarantee you'll be prying my G100 from my cold, dead hands.

I agree.... We have 2 7428 at work, not many but we use them quite a bit. one is 33 years old the other 4 no troubles, long as you don't drop them in the water.

[Tim Lingor]

Originally posted by OctaneGuy
I'd have to disagree about recommending a CE to anybody, especially if you're a beginner. While I'm a person who believes that you don't need to buy more tool than your skill allows, there are dramatic differences between the Makita and the CE, and I'd say once you're experienced with a rotary, then it's easy enough to handle something that's less precise like the CE.

The one feature that stands out on my Makita is simply that you can gradually accelerate the buffer--moving from a crawl up until the maximum RPM setting that you've set. So for instance, say you've set the Makita to not go higher than 1000 RPM's, then with different trigger pressure you can slowly accelerate the buffer from 0 to 1000RPMs. Now why is that good?

Well, preventing splatter for one. I apply my chemical in a line on my paint. I move from Right to Left to pick up the chemical. By smearing the chemical against the paint at a slow speed, then coming back at a higher speed, I can keep splatter to a minimum. btw, I learned this by watching Joe (Superior Shine) and Mike Phillips.

This isn't possible with the CE

Another thing to realize is that a rotary and a PC work hand in hand. You can't dump the PC, thinking the rotary will do everything a PC can but faster. I prefer to think of the PC as a finishing tool.

In a beginners hands, the PC is a safe and effective way to buffing out your paint, because it doesn't do much work. A rotary works much faster, but almost always instills buffer swirls, and well guess what tool do you need to finish off the rotary work? The PC to remove those buffer swirls.

So if you really want to be doing high quality work, bite the bullet, keep the PC, and buy a good rotary--whether we're talking Hitachi, DeWalt, Makita, or Porter Cable--make sure to master that tool and you'll find things a lot easier when the tool isn't fighting you from learning good technique.

Hey,

I remember Richard going through this dilemma!!

To be very honest, I will give you the same advice I gave him, consider buying the Makita, Dewalt or Porter Cable rotaries. I have 2 Makitas and 1 Dewalt rotary and have never had a single issue with any of them. And believe me, they get used a LOT! It is IMHO, better to have too much tool than not enough.

I use the rotary probably 90% of the time and would not want to detail without it!

Tim

[OctaneGuy]

Exactly. I'm speaking from experience. Don't go the cheap way and buy the CE model. I regret spending $60 for my electronic (LCD) variable speed CE with "supposed" soft start. And it wasn't cause I broke it within weeks of owning it, but just the feel and control were really lacking. Of course, what did I know since I had never held a Makita???

I think my advice/post was taken wrong. I meant that I'm a person who might spend $1,000 on a digital SLR but not $4,000 because I know that my camera skills can't justify the extra expense. But in this case, having experienced what a $60 digital camera is like, don't waste your money. Go buy the $1,000 model cause there's plenty of learning room and you'll have a lot more fun doing it!

Originally posted by 2hotford
Hey,

I remember Richard going through this dilemma!!

To be very honest, I will give you the same advice I gave him, consider buying the Makita, Dewalt or Porter Cable rotaries. I have 2 Makitas and 1 Dewalt rotary and have never had a single issue with any of them. And believe me, they get used a LOT! It is IMHO, better to have too much tool than not enough.

I use the rotary probably 90% of the time and would not want to detail without it!

Tim

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

Originally posted by OctaneGuy
Exactly. I'm speaking from experience. Don't go the cheap way and buy the CE model. I regret spending $60 for my electronic (LCD) variable speed CE with "supposed" soft start. And it wasn't cause I broke it within weeks of owning it, but just the feel and control were really lacking. Of course, what did I know since I had never held a Makita???

I think my advice/post was taken wrong. I meant that I'm a person who might spend $1,000 on a digital SLR but not $4,000 because I know that my camera skills can't justify the extra expense. But in this case, having experienced what a $60 digital camera is like, don't waste your money. Go buy the $1,000 model cause there's plenty of learning room and you'll have a lot more fun doing it!

I can agree with that.... but for me personally I don't think my purchase of the CE rotary (not the electronic/variable one, though) was a COMPLETE waste. It does get the job done in alot of situations, but then again I know for a fact that I'm having to use much more agressive products/pads to make up for the lack of power from the machine, than I would if I had a quality rotary tool. The nice part about having less power, too, is that I have less risk of burning paint as long as I keep the machine moving. It generates heat, but not nearly as much heat as a machine spinning faster would produce. At the same time, though, that is exactly what makes it ineffective in some places.

[96Lude]

Firstly I would like to say thanks for all the replies and helpful information.

Here is my main issue right now. I am trying to remove some defects from my dad's car. It has some bird dropping etchings which I have not been able to remove yet with my PC. I am not sure if it's because of the Sonus polishes I was using which are not aggressive enough. I am thinking of either purchasing the rotary at this point since I fear that my PC is not cutting it, or just try a product such as #83 and hope for the best.