Did I quit to soon....

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Kevin Brown
Mike...

In the old days I'd hand rub with #7 after a rotary buffing session to remove a little paint. It worked pretty good, too! The swirls would polish away because the paint was soft enough to rub off a micro-layer by hand.

I was going to mention the option of hand-polishing after using the rotary buffer if a dual action polisher was not available, but didn't and I'm glad you brought it into the mix.

The paint technology of today seems to require an orbital finishing step to pass the test of time. For that matter, an immediate wash between buffing steps, or a simple spray of alcohol-based glass cleaner helps to expose the ultra-fine rotary swirl that is almost certainly present.

Hard or soft, I have found that the human hand cannot duplicate the results you can achieve using the dual action polisher with the right pad, product and technique.

I say helps because sometimes there are instances when the paint allows solvents to penetrate or permeate the surface. When this happens, the paint looks fantastic until the solvent 'gasses out', or 'evaporates'. Then you'll see the imperfections left by the rotary. For me, it's best to just follow up with the orbital while you've got everything out and you're planning on doing it anyway.

I agree. When your reputation is on the line you have to do everything you can do to produce the best possible results.

Regardless of whether it's a one-day detail, or a thirty hour paint polishing session, I will do a final pass by hand or orbital. Since I'm the only guy that I can go to if I have a problem, I'd rather avoid it and do the extra step.

You are your own best friend in a situation like this.

[SpoiledMan]

Originally posted by Kevin Brown
If you felt attacked by me stating my opinion with a twist of humor, I am sorry!
Definitely not my intention...

Attacked, no. Doubted, yes.

I know and appreciate the intention of this forum. I use a number of different products from a number of manufacturers. I use what does the best job with consistent results and ease of use for *me.* I like return customers and return customers that tell friends. I always get a call after a detail asking for more cards to give out. I must be doing something right as I have all the work that I'd like.

I would still like to attend a NXTti to further my skills in other areas though.

If you'd like to discuss the products used we can take it to PM's and I'll even send a sample or two if you don't have them or invite you to try the process if you do have them.

Mike I know you know how soft the paint on the Pilot is so you know what I'm working with in terms of soft. Look at it wrong and it's marred!

[GSRstilez]

I hope I am not stepping on any toes with this one. If I am, please be let me know.


Personally, I use the rotary exclusively. I was trained/trained myself under halogen lights/sunlight/gas station lights (metal hallide) and have been down the ugly road before. I have experienced haze, mircomarring, and straight-up rotary holograms. I have experimented with most of the Meguiar's lineup, Optimum Polishes, Menzerna, Poorboy's, Hi-Temp, Gliptone, and a couple others.

The key is to finding the right polish for the surface. For instance, Optimum polishes respond great to Mercedes paints, but don't make a dent in Audi's. They also marr the hell out of Ford. BTW: This is using consistent techniques.

The few polishes I have found to NOT leave anything behind but a perfect surface (after IPA wipedown in full sunlight) are as follows:

-Menzerna PO 85RD @ 1500 with a LC Black Finishing
-Menzerna FPII @ 1500 with a LC Black Finishing
-Meguiar's SFP (#82) @ 1500 with a LC Black Finishing

I have had some luck with Optimum polish with a black finishing @ 1200rpm, but not on every surface.

With all of these polishes, I keep the pad 95-100% flat, making very slow passes (3 seconds per foot) with overlapping motions. I will usually do 2-3 passes per bead of polish or until the polish is fully worked in.

You can check out my work over at Autopia.org. I post it all there. Furthermore, I have an Integra (very soft paint as mentioned before) and always rotary polish it. Even after months of only washing and QD'ing, no hazing or buffer marks whatsoever.

Like I said, I think its totally possible. Many times you need a light touch, especially on curved surfaces, but it is doable. If you have any questions further for me, I'd be happy to help.


-Sean

[rundatrack]

Ah....didnt want this spin on the thread...but hey...

Whaddup Sean hope things are going well....

...I am the guy with the neighbors that honk all the time...LOL

[tumbler]

Hi Sean !

[Kevin Brown]

Originally posted by GSRstilez
If you have any questions further for me, I'd be happy to help. -Sean

Okay!