I have some portable halogen lights. 2 units on one stand that can be raised and lowered. Total watts is 1200. The wattage is adjustable....300, 600, 900, 1200. There are 2 bulbs in each unit. Each bulb is 300 watts. This works very well for me. It's shows lots of scratches that you may not see in other light.
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Need Opinions on Garage Lighting for Polishing
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Originally posted by RDVT4ME
I have some portable halogen lights. 2 units on one stand that can be raised and lowered. Total watts is 1200. The wattage is adjustable....300, 600, 900, 1200. There are 2 bulbs in each unit. Each bulb is 300 watts. This works very well for me. It's shows lots of scratches that you may not see in other lignt.thanks !
Bill Poirier
West Seneca, NY 14224
"until you can afford a great car, always strive for a great looking car"
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Well, I think that maybe that is the best solution. I plan on using the T8 tubes that are"daylight" temperature for the everyday stuff. Then, I may add the floods portable stand for when I plan on needing additional lighting for the buff/polish work. After all, I am not even that far yet on even having a (DA) buffer, LOL. But I do like planing ahead. Must be the Engineer in me.Brad
Detailing a Vehicle is very Therapeutic.
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Sorry, I don't have pics of my shop. Wish I did as I'd sorta like to show it off
I'm not using floodlights, but rather industrial-style ceiling mount light fixtures that take "regular" lightbulbs, just hight-wattage ones that look normal but big (they also make these in "mogul base" versions and I sorta wish I'd got those instead). Sheesh, I can't even tell you what kind of fixtures they are as the contractor didn't leave me the infoBut they have metal shades and wire grills to protect the bulbs. They look like something you'd see in a 1940's warehouse. I use 320-watt bulbs in them and have three hanging over each side/"bay" in the shop with two more in the center of the shop over the trench drain (total of 8 of these things). Sometimes I spot stuff the best by turning on the ones on the other side of the shop instead of the ones right over where I'm working. It's funny how the different angles of illumination and viewing angles work.
I also use a portable trouble-light that has a spring clamp instead of a handle. It's rated to over 300W and I usually use 300W bulbs in it (but IIRC Bill D sometimes uses 200W bulbs in his). I hold it by the spring clamp and move it around while also varying my viewing angle. Suddenly some previously invisible marring will just jump out at me when I get everything right. I keep a little polish on my one finger and dab it on the spot so I don't forget where it is while getting the polisher.
I also have two of the two-head halogens and yeah, they're great (if a little warm sometimes). But for the final inspection, I turn off everything and use the incandescents. Somehow I just don't see as much of the super-fine stuff under the halogens.
Oh, and if you can, put some of the fluorescent tubes on the walls. Great for general illumination.
Oh #2, watch getting cold water on hot halogen/incandescent bulbsThat's one good reason to have a lot of fluorescents.
Practical Perfectionist
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You are definitely right on the heat generated by the halogens. I bought a nice fan for the garage to help with that.-Bob
NXTti graduate, Meguiars Ford/SEMA Team
"All Corvette's are red, the rest are mistakes" - John Heinricy (Corvette Engineer)
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I have my halogens mounted to the walls to prevent anybody knocking them over on a car.The light is excellent but the heat from them is terrible except in the winter.Then I have a halogen clipped to my moble cart for them low areas.I havent tried the incondesent lights yet.2007 Mustang GT/CS white 5sp. named Cali
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