Compound for fresh paint?

[rusty bumper]

Pardon me for intruding, but is the Meguiar video in DVD format now?

Best of luck Sevename!.........And welcome to the forum.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Rusty Bumper
Pardon me for intruding, but is the Meguiar video in DVD format now?

Not that I'm aware of.

[Sevename]

I went to a big show today and the Megs truck was there. I picked up some 85, 83, 80 and a gallon of Final, no taxes and no shipping. All I have to do is order the Mikita, backing plates and pads now.

[Sevename]

Mike, if I sand out to 3000 do you think I could get away with starting with the DACP?

Thanks for the help.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Sevename
Mike, if I sand out to 3000 do you think I could get away with starting with the DACP?

Thanks for the help.

It sounds like a good idea, but the #3000 grit finishing paper is pretty fine and it will take a lot of careful sanding to remove all your previous sanding marks with more aggressive papers completely, to effective remove the sanding marks with a cleaner/polish like M83

The wool pad with the M85 will be the fastest most effective way to remove your sanding marks.

If time is less of an issue, then our foam cutting pad with the M84 will do a good job especially if you get after it the day after it's painted. When using the M84/W-7006 or W-7000 foam cutting pad, you want to be careful not to buff in one area too long because you could generate a lot of heat real fast. Always be checking with the palm of your hand. You should be able to place the palm of your hand on the finish at all times. If you place the palm of your hand onto the finish and your natural safety instincts cause your arm to quickly pull your hand off the finish, this is an indicator that you've buffed this area to long and generated too much heat. Simply move to another area and let the paint cool down before continuing to buff in that area.

When you first start out, do a Test Spot with both systems and see which combination is working the best and which combination you feel most comfortable with.

The wool pad will win hands down for speed and effectiveness in completely removing sanding marks. At the same time, I have a friend who is a Professional painter for a living and a custom painter on the side and he sands everything the next day with Nikken papers and then removes his sanding marks using the W-7000 cutting pad and M84.

Here's his own rod...



You're going to want to focus on always cleaning your pads as you move along, especially the foam pads as you'll be removing paint and your pad will accumulate both removed paint and product on the face of the pad and if you don't clean you pad often this build-up will work against you. Keep a nylon brush like our new Triple Duty Detail brush or even a firm bristle tooth brush on hand for cleaning foam pads, also a terry cloth towel will work if you hold it against the pad while it's spinning to help you pull out excess product. For the wool pad, you'll want to use a pad cleaning spur.

Clean your pads often as you're buffing.

Also, it is very important to remember to buff long enough that all of the diminishing abrasives have broken down, but don't buff to a dry buff. This is important because if you don't buff till the abrasives have completely broken down, you will end up with swirls from the abrasives as they have not completely broken down.

I noticed you didn't get any M84 Compound Power Cleaner so I want to add that the M85 is formulated for wool pads and the M84 is formulated for foam pads. The M84 is a wetter products as when you're buffing with foam you need more lubricity and slip as the foam tends to have more surface area contact than the wool thus more friction.

If you have not watched our how to video, make sure you do as it really does a good job of explaining a lot of the above.

[Sevename]

Thanks Mike. I think I'm going to sand out to 3000 and then start with #85 and wool, then #83 with an 8000 pad and finish with #80 and a 8006 pad on the DAP. Sound good?

[Sevename]

Hi again Mike. The project is moving slower than hoped, so no pics yet. But another question, I have the PC DAP and I have a Dynabrade 3/32 stroke DA, would the DA work as well as the DAP for the same products? I was thinking maybe, since putting a pad on the DA would be no big deal and it is a little easier to handle. Thoughts?

Thanks for the help.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Sevename
Hi again Mike. The project is moving slower than hoped, so no pics yet.

But another question, I have the PC DAP and I have a Dynabrade 3/32 stroke DA, would the DA work as well as the DAP for the same products?

I was thinking maybe, since putting a pad on the DA would be no big deal and it is a little easier to handle. Thoughts?

Thanks for the help.

I have not used the Dynabrade DA, but I've been told it has a fixed rotating action? If so, it will offer dramatically more cleaning power than any dual action polisher without a fixed rotating action.

Jason Rose just obtained one of these, I spoke to him on the phone yesterday and after he puts it through some testing he's going to let me know of the results.

Did you ever finish buffing out your Firebird?

[Sevename]

Hi Mike. I wet sanded out to 3000 using the Dynabrade and I loved it. Fast and easy to use with little mess. I decided to just try DACP on the DAP with a 7000 pad to see if it would take out the 3000 marks. And it worked well on the 3000 grit marks, then I hit it quickly with DACP and an 8000, then on to #80 with another 8000 pad and finsihed with #05 on a 9000. All the steps went very quickly and it didn't take much product. I was very happy with the results and how easy it was. Including sanding time I'd guess my average time was 45 min to an hour a panel. When I get some good pics of the car I'll put them up.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Sevename
Including sanding time I'd guess my average time was 45 min to an hour a panel.

When I get some good pics of the car I'll put them up.

Right on!


I'm glad to hear everything went smooth, no pun intended


Looking forward to some pictures of a paint job that looks glassy and wet!

[Sevename]

Here is a pic I don't really care for. I don't like the way the car is sitting on the trailer, it makes it look like the nose sticks up. I'm really busy right now, as usual, I want to get some nice pics of it this fall. If I do I'll post them. The car is dirty in the pic too. It was trailered about 300 miles, some of it through the rain, raced and never cleaned. It looks a lot better after a good wipe down with some QD.

File was too large, I'll try to fix that

[Sevename]

After resizing the pic doesn't seem as clear.

[Sevename]

1

[Mike Phillips]

E-mail me the original to mphillips@meguiars.com and I'll resize it and upload it into your gallery, we don't allow attaching on this forum.

How to put pictures into your posts