Compound for fresh paint?

[Sevename]

Hi, I have a PC DAP, what compound and polish would you guys suggest on fresh PPG Concept SS? I'm planning on sanding out to 2000 or 2500.
Thanks for the help.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Compound for fresh paint?

Originally posted by Sevename
Hi, I have a PC DAP, what compound and polish would you guys suggest on fresh PPG Concept SS? I'm planning on sanding out to 2000 or 2500.
Thanks for the help.

Hi Sevename,

Seeing this is your first post, Welcome to Meguiar's Online!

Unless your paint is really, really soft, you are not going to be able to effectively, and efficiently remove your sanding marks using the dual action polisher. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but what you need is a rotary buffer.

You can try I guess, but typically, these types of paints are too hard after even a few days to remove sanding marks using a tool that is safe and gentle to the finish.

You can try a test spot if you like, to do this wet-sand finishing with #2500 Nikken Finishing Paper and then use M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish with our W-8006 Polishing pad on the 5.0 setting.

Post back here your results. Remember, because the dual action polisher is so safe and gentle to the finish you'll need to reduce the size of your work area to about a one foot square area.

Note: The reason dual action polishers are so popular, is because they won't hurt the paint but understand, it's for this same reason they will not remove a lot of paint, as in removing sanding marks.

Do you own or have access to a rotary buffer and have you ever used one before?

[Sevename]

No, I haven't used a rotary before, but I'm willing to get one and do it. I'll have to get new pads too, no biggie. I had used the DAP on old paint before and it worked well. I assumed that on softer paint it would work too. What is the Nikken paper and where do I get it? I was going to order Unigrit?
The car won't be ready for about two weeks so I have time, but want to figure it out ASAP. I'll also need to get a rotary ordered in the next week, any suggestions? I'm willing to put in the extra time to get this car near perfect. I just don't have a lot of time to do the research right now.
Thanks for the help.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Sevename
No, I haven't used a rotary before, but I'm willing to get one and do it. I'll have to get new pads too, no biggie. I had used the DAP on old paint before and it worked well. I assumed that on softer paint it would work too.

You should probably try to get going on this as soon as possible as your window of time that the paint has not fully case-hardened is usually somewhat short. Talk to the painter, let him know you're planning on wet-sanding and buffing out the paint and ask him if there is anything he can do to make the clear coat harden a little slower to give you a little more time to buff your sanding marks out. Also, practice with the rotary buffer first on something that's not important to you like a beater car and before you do this, watch our How To Remove Paint Defects video online, or purchase it from Meguiar's.

Watch our how-to video online here,

How to remove paint defects

Or you can purchase it here,

Professional Education Series Video

What is the Nikken paper and where do I get it? I was going to order Unigrit?

Meguiar's Unigrit Finishing Papers are made for us by Nikken.

Unigrit Finishing Papers

The car won't be ready for about two weeks so I have time, but want to figure it out ASAP. I'll also need to get a rotary ordered in the next week, any suggestions? I'm willing to put in the extra time to get this car near perfect. I just don't have a lot of time to do the research right now.
Thanks for the help.

If you want to save some money, I've heard the El Cheapo rotary buffer at Harbor Freight works just fine and can be had for between $30.00 and $40.00 This might be just perfect for what you're doing. If you want to invest in a high end tool, then look at a Makita variable speed rotary buffer.

Order your finishing papers and soak them the night before you use them.

Please take some before and after shots as well as some process shots during the project to share your results with our forum if possible.

[Sevename]

Thanks Mike, those links were alot of help. I'm going to get the Mikita 9227C it looks like a good choice for the long run. I just picked up some paper this afternoon at the autobody supply place. They only had the Unigrit up to 2000. What compound and pad should I start with to get the 2000 marks out? I plan to just use one of each going down the chart in the rotary sticky from there. Sound about right?

Thanks again.

[Mike Phillips]

The Makita is a great choice, I've had mine since 1988 and it's never let me down...

Before we go any further, what are you working on? Inquiring minds want to know?

[Sevename]

'68 Firebird, I'll be sure to post pics when done. Paint hasn't been shot yet, probably late next week, it'll be about 2 days old when I start on it probably. Do you think I'll need to go down to wool or start with the W7000?

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Sevename
'68 Firebird, I'll be sure to post pics when done. Paint hasn't been shot yet, probably late next week, it'll be about 2 days old when I start on it probably. Do you think I'll need to go down to wool or start with the W7000?

The 1968 Firebird body is a pretty decent body to sand and buff, that is mostly larger, flat flowing surfaces versus a lot of smaller panels with multiple body lines.

For speed and effectiveness, Meguiar's would recommend using either, a wool pad with our M85 Diamond Cut compound
Our W-7000 or W-7006 foam cutting pad with our M84 Compound Power Cleaner.

Of the two options, the wool pad option will be faster and more effective at completely removing the sanding marks. This is because the fibers that make up a wool pad provide more aggressive cutting power to remove paint. for this same reason you'll have to re-clean each panel to insure any swirls left by the compound and wool pad combination are removed.

It's a good idea to do this after compounding with a foam pad also, it' just the swirls left behind are not going to be as deep.

Are you trying to create a flawless show car finish? Or just do a pretty good job? Letting us know your car care goals will better help us to guide you to the right products and processes.

[Sevename]

Thanks Mike. I'll order both, better safe than sorry. If I start with wool what pad/polish progression would you suggest from there?

Thanks again, this site is great!

[Mike Phillips]

Because the 68 Firebird is a very cool car, and because you have shown yourself to be wise in that your are researching the best way to do the job right the first time, we'll assume you want a swirl-free, flawless show car finish!

If you remove your sanding marks using a wool pad, then to insure 100% any wool pad fiber swirl marks are removed, we would suggest following this step with M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish with a W-8006 or W-8000 foam polishing pad at between 1300 and 1500 rpms.

Try to watch the video online or order the tape as it will teach you a lot of great techniques for machine cleaning with a rotary buffer, above all, you want to,

• * Hold your pad flat as you can whenever you can
  * Clean your pad often
  Wool pad with a spur.
  Foam pads with either a nylon brush, or by holding a clean, terry cloth towel against the foam as you bring the rpms up to remove paint and product build-up. (foam pad only, not the wool pad)
  * Don't use too much product, most people have a tendency to overuse product causing the product to become gummy on the surface
  * Use slow, overlapping motions while holding the pad flat to the surface. Moving the buffer quickly over the surface will not give the combination of foam and product under time and pressure to work properly, so slow down.

After you have completely massaged out any of the deeper swirls instilled by the wool pad by re-buffing the panels with foam, wipe off all the M83 Residue and re-polish each panel using a dual action polisher with our M80 Speed Glaze with a clean, dedicated W-8006 foam polishing pad on the 5.0 setting.

This will insure any remaining light swirls or buffer haze, instilled by the rotary buffer using the M83 are removed and perfectly prepare your paint for application of wax after 30 days or how ever long your painter says to wait before applying a wax.

The above is a a three step system that produces show car results every time as long as you take your time when you follow this process.

Most body shops skip the last step, and butcher the second step and this is often times the reason a new paint job will look like this...




After the recommended waiting period for the paint to cure, wash the car in necessary to insure it's clean, or wipe the finish down with a quick detailer to insure it's dust free, then apply two thin coats of your favorite wax.

Use a W-9006 foam finishing pad on the dual action polisher on the 3.0 setting. To remove, use a Ultimate Bonnet, (a microfiber polishing bonnet), on a clean, dry, never been used W-7006 foam cutting pad on the 5.0 setting of the dual action polisher.

Then be prepared to be blown away!

(I wish I could be there to help you! )

[Sevename]

Thats some awesome help Mike. Thank you very much. One last question that you might or might not be able to answer. I was planning on waiting 8 weeks before using sealants or wax. Its going to be real hard to wait. Anyway, is it okay to use final inspection during this time?

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Sevename
Thats some awesome help Mike. Thank you very much. One last question that you might or might not be able to answer. I was planning on waiting 8 weeks before using sealants or wax. Its going to be real hard to wait. Anyway, is it okay to use final inspection during this time?

Yes. Final Inspection is Body Shop Safe, this terminolgy means it's completely safe for fresh paint environments and fresh paint itself.

What color is the paint being sprayed onto your Firebird?

[Sevename]

Cool, I'll use that in the mean time.

Its going to be the original color, Solar Red, which is fairly dark yet bright red. I figured why change a red Firebird. Even though silvers and metallic blues are my favorite colors. But there are a few tricks being thrown in to give it a hopefully distinct look.

[Mike Phillips]

I don't know if you own a dual action polisher yet, but if you don't, we strongly recommend them for creating show car finishes. As to taking care of your car's paint during the curing time, check out the gloss created on the Overhaulin 1973 Challenger using M80 Speed Glaze as an LSP, (Last Step Product), applied using a W-8006 with the dual action polisher.



It's a great polish for both fresh and cured paint.

[Sevename]

I have the PC 7424. I'm planning on doing it exactly as you have laid out here. Thanks for all the help. Pics in two weeks I hope.