Megs G110 upgrade question

[huzidada]

Hey Guys, have been detailing for a few months now with my G110 V1 and have detailed all 4 cars in my lot with it. Im actaully moving on to detailing in the weekends, Friday to Sunday, and while I notice my Megs G110 is awesome for lighter swirls and scratches etc, I want to upgrade to something that would make correction work much easier and faster especially with medium to heavy scratches and swirls.

I have the two most famous options available to me, the Flex 3401 and the Rupes LHR21EH...a topic that has been debated for a while now.
However, considering I live in South Africa , if I convert the price of both machines to US dollars, The flex is $500 and the Rupes is $1000. Thats absolute madness considering the prices Ive seen online but non the less I have two big cars to do, a Jag XFR and a S63 AMG and cant really wait(maybe I should) to order online.

Im leaning a bit towards the Flex in terms of price but the Rupes for correction . I am unable to find or use any of the machines to help me decide so that ***** more!

What would you guys say is a better buy first? Something that can handle more than my poor little G110 can.

Luckily pads are not an issue for me and Ive been using 5.5inch Scholl, LC Hydrotechs and Menzerna pads.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Megs G110 upgrade question

Both are great tools but before spending that kind of money on either, have you tried using our microfiber pads on your G110 yet? They offer a lot more cut than any foam pads on the market, and if you step away from D300 (which is the compound designed specifically to work with them) you can get even more cut, but usually at the price of some dusting. Our M100 and M101, though not designed for these pads, do work great with them and will cut like crazy while usually leaving a surprisingly nice finish at the same time.

[huzidada]

Re: Megs G110 upgrade question

Hi Michaels and thabks for your reply.

No I havent tried your MF pads or the Mirror Glaze products, but what Im finding hard is how to distinguish which product for what.

For example, for heavy swirls and deep scratches etc Id use Menzerna FG400 with a heavy cut foam pad and for medium ones Id use it with a medium cutting pad.
For just the lighter defect Id use Menzerna PF2500 and to finish either product Id use Menzerna SF4500.

Im sure there is a list of what to use where, but unfortunately Ive done so much research and have so many answers that Im a bit tired to double check, but if you can point me in the right direction and give some general advice regarding them, I would really appreciate.

P.S most of the guys here have hard paints, like new Mercs and BMWs and the likes, and with the conditions here( driving on gravel roads and dust and bugs) a lotof the cars have swirls and scratch problems from cars not being washed properly, so thats usually the stuff I have to deal with, and as you know, these new cars have tough clear coats!

Sorry for the typos, its been a long day

[jarred767]

I haven't used the flex, but the Rupes is absolutely amazing. Pair it with the MF pads and it'll cut through just about anything, without creating too much heat too. I usually use this combo with either D300 or M105 and it works amazing and is way faster than a regular DA amazing (I'm sure M100 or M101 work too, I just haven't got around to ordering them).

I will second what Mike said though, and even just upgrading to the MF pads will drastically improve performance and reduce the amount of time spent. They are absolutely great.

[huzidada]

Re: Megs G110 upgrade question

Thanks for the replies guys will definitely try the MF pads!

Also, just wanted to know, I know you use between 15-20lbs pressure when using compounds to cut but how much pressure do I apply when using a finishing polish to bring out the shine?

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Megs G110 upgrade question

Finishing polish should be used with a light to moderate touch, depending on how the paint responds. We've seen cases where a bit more pressure and a shorter buffing cycle with M205 yields a better result than lighter pressure, so as always you'll need to experiment a bit. But generally speaking, since you're no longer correcting severe defects but are just trying to maximize gloss and clarity, a fairly light touch is preferable with a finishing polish.