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**Murr1525** · Feb 22, 2010, 12:06 AM

Re: Help - First time DA user and may have, um, issues

May have been applied a bit thick, or let dry, and made it hard to remove? Does it look more like streaking from a product, not like swirls/marring, like you applied with the pad dry?

I would tend to say that something like #80 or is a pretty good product for learning with, as it has some working time, but not too stubborn to wipe off. #205 is a good product, but a bit more expensive for a lot of practicing/playing.

**fe91** · Feb 22, 2010, 04:59 PM

Re: Help - First time DA user and may have, um, issues

Im assuming its could be because you used a polishing pad instead of a finishing pad.

Show car glaze is a pure polish and should be applied with a finishing pad.

**TH0001** · Feb 22, 2010, 05:13 PM

Re: Help - First time DA user and may have, um, issues

Where are you located?

I would guess that you didn't apply the polish long enough(break it down all the way) and thus the resulting haze. It could be a matter of simply tweaking your technique.

Also some paint's just don't like DA polishers, although I have found that 993's never seemed to have a problem. Is your paint single stage btw?

**C4_993_Driver** · Feb 23, 2010, 06:13 AM

Re: Help - First time DA user and may have, um, issues

I doesn't seem to be marred, but rather hazed. The product was applied sparingly (in the cross-pattern recommended in the instruction booklet). It was all rather easy to wipe-off, but when I saw in the light, my heart sank as it all looked hazy,

**C4_993_Driver** · Feb 23, 2010, 06:14 AM

Re: Help - First time DA user and may have, um, issues

Originally posted by fe91 View Post

Im assuming its could be because you used a polishing pad instead of a finishing pad.

Show car glaze is a pure polish and should be applied with a finishing pad.

Fe - I'm a bit confused by this. I saw on several posts that the pad I used was recommended; but, your suggestion is a good one. Thanks!

**C4_993_Driver** · Feb 23, 2010, 06:18 AM

Re: Help - First time DA user and may have, um, issues

Originally posted by TH0001 View Post

Where are you located?

I would guess that you didn't apply the polish long enough(break it down all the way) and thus the resulting haze. It could be a matter of simply tweaking your technique.

Also some paint's just don't like DA polishers, although I have found that 993's never seemed to have a problem. Is your paint single stage btw?

I'm in Treasure Island, Fl (Gulf Coast west of St Pete)

Good thought on the technique. How do I know go back an eliminate haze? Do I go back over with a finishing pad?

Embarrassingly, I'm not sure I know the "single stage" answer. How do I find out? How does that impact?

Also, to all...thank you so much for the quick comments. Please keep them coming!

**C4_993_Driver** · Feb 23, 2010, 06:21 AM

Re: Help - First time DA user and may have, um, issues

Also, regarding the dry/versus wet pad...I saw several posts that summed up "it's a matter of preference". What are your thoughts relative to my situation?

**jfelbab** · Feb 23, 2010, 06:49 AM

Re: Help - First time DA user and may have, um, issues

Originally posted by C4_993_Driver View Post

I doesn't seem to be marred, but rather hazed. The product was applied sparingly (in the cross-pattern recommended in the instruction booklet). It was all rather easy to wipe-off, but when I saw in the light, my heart sank as it all looked hazy,

What does it look like if you spray the hazed area with a QD and wipe off. #7 is a very oily product and often will leave behind enough oils to see it in some lighting.

**Mike Phillips** · Feb 23, 2010, 08:04 AM

Re: Help - First time DA user and may have, um, issues

Originally posted by C4_993_Driver View Post

Today, after a good washing, I applied Show Care Glaze with the 8006 pad on setting 3. I took my time, tried to use the techniques shown, etc. But, now that I look at my car, there seems to be hazing a distinct "tracks" where I've used the 110.

M07 Show Car Glaze or #7 Show Car Glaze is what Meguiar's calls a "Pure Polish" in Meguiar's terminology this means it's a non-abrasive polish to maximize gloss, clarity and in the case of a single stage paint, bring out the full richness of color.

It came out probably in the 1920's, hard to say because there's no one around any longer that knows when the early Megs products were introduced.

Here's a few incarnations over the decades...

It works equally well on all paint systems for what it does but no days modern waxes and paint sealants will give you the same kind of results and last longer because M07 Show Car Glaze is water soluble. Remember, its not a "Protecting" product it's a body shop safe glaze for FRESH PAINT, it's made to protect or last, it's made to create gloss.

Just to note because a lot of people don't know this, Meguiar's history is in making product for fresh paint for use in body shops and car manufacturing assembly lines starting out in 1901, back when cars were invented. They didn't introduce products for do-it-yourselfers working on cured paint till 1973. So there's a different approach to making products for body shops versus cured paint.

**Mike Phillips** · Feb 23, 2010, 08:14 AM

Re: Help - First time DA user and may have, um, issues

Somehow posted my last reply before I finished...

My point was that M07 is for creating a clear, glossy finish, it has no correction ability, so the question is,

What is your goal?
Are you just trying to make your car's paint look GREAT! Or are you trying to remove light swirls?

The 3.0 Speed Setting is pretty slow for applying M07, it's the oiliest product in the Meguiar's line and it likes to e applied around the 4.0 to 5.0 speed setting, you'll find the pad will move over the surface easier at a tick higher speed setting.

Pretty hard to haze paint using a clean foam polishing pad and M07?

Did you go over the entire car or did you do a Test Spot?

A test spot is where you test out your process to one small area first and make sure you can make one small area look GREAT before going over the entire car. By doing a test spot if something is wrong wit your process then you'll be glad you only worked on one small section.

Process = Your choice of pad, product, tool and your technique... all are important factors.

If you're seeing hazing from a CLEAN soft foam polishing pad and M07 then it sounds like you have really soft paint as both of these items are very gentle to paint.

Did the paint need to be clayed?

Maybe get a bottle of SwirlX and do a Test Spot with the SwirlX and see if you can remove the haze with this approach.

Also, like jfelbab pointed out, M07 is very oily, could it just be trace residues you're seeing?

Here's a couple of articles for you...

Final Wiping Techniques

How To Test for a Clearcoat or Single Stage Paint Finish

Tips & Techniques for using the G110, G100, G220 and the PC Dual Action Polisher

**Michael Stoops** · Feb 23, 2010, 09:22 AM

Re: Help - First time DA user and may have, um, issues

Just as different products provide different levels of cut (M105 being more aggressive than M04, which is more aggressive than M80, etc) so too do the pads used. W7xxx cutting pads offer so much cut as to be, in most cases, incompatible with D/A use. The W8xxx series of pads offers less cut than the cutting pads, but a sufficient amount to help paint cleaners do their job of defect removal more effectively. The W9xxx series of finishing pads offer little to no cut themselves and so are the correct choice for applying pure polishes and waxes. The idea here being that when you're at the stage of applying a pure polish or wax you should have gotten the finish as close to perfection as possible, or as close as your goals planned for, so you now want to touch it as delicately as possible so as not to induce any fresh marring.

How the paint reacts to any input plays a huge role in which product/pad combination to select. While it's rare that a clean polishing pad will mar a finish, it certainly can happen if the paint is just delicate enough. We suspect that's the likely cause of what's happened here. Certainly M07 Show Car Glaze contains nothing that could, in and of itself, cause this issue. That leaves the pad as the prime suspect.

So, how to correct this issue? Well, M07 on a W9xxx finishing pad might do a great job of concealing the marring you now have, but it probably won't truly get rid of it since M07 provides no cut of its own. You might want to try a very fine finishing polish, something that offers a bit of cut, with either a W8xxx or W9xxx pad, depending on what the paint tells you after doing a test spot. A liquid such as M82 Swirl Free Polish, M80 Speed Glaze or M205 Ultra Finishing Polish should knock that marring out fairly easily since it seems like it was pretty easy to put it there in the first place. Heck, even SwirlX might be a perfect solution here.

During multiple Thursday Night Open Garage sessions here at Meguiar's we've seen incredible results when using a W9207 finishing pad with M205 on speed 3 -4 using only moderate pressure. Delicate paints have responded with a deep gloss that was missing from more aggressive approaches, and hard paints showed a final clarity that they never previously possessed. While the M205/W9207 might well be the "ultimate" choice of the possible combinations just mentioned, if you have one of the others on hand then by all means test it out first.

Take an easy approach, though. Start with a W9xxx series finishing pad and one of those liquids. All of them will give you a nice long buffing cycle so they won't dry out quickly, and they'll all be very easy to wipe off once they're down to just a thin, translucent film on the surface. But definitely do a test spot first!! Just test in an area about the size of a microfiber towel, work the product, wipe it off, and pull the car back out into the sun so you can critically evaluate your work. You may need a second pass, you may need a slightly more aggressive liquid (M205 over M82, for example) or you may find everything to your liking.

**C4_993_Driver** · Feb 24, 2010, 09:05 AM

Re: Help - First time DA user and may have, um, issues

Originally posted by jfelbab View Post

What does it look like if you spray the hazed area with a QD and wipe off. #7 is a very oily product and often will leave behind enough oils to see it in some lighting.

I will try that when I return from travel. Thanks for the suggestion.

**C4_993_Driver** · Feb 24, 2010, 09:11 AM

Re: Help - First time DA user and may have, um, issues

Mike - This is all very helpful.

Goals: (1) Remove swirls, (2) Make paint look great

Pristinely clean pad (brand new out of the packet)

Test spot was accomplished...looked good. Then went over whole car. Most of the "streaking is on the hood".

Car hasn't been clayed, but I had to order it on-line. Can't find a store that has it.

That raises a whole new list of questions...though, I imagine I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

I think your hunch is a good one...I'm seeing the residue. Still need to get it out. Will try with the SwirlX I suppose.

**C4_993_Driver** · Feb 24, 2010, 09:14 AM

Re: Help - First time DA user and may have, um, issues

Michael -

This is also very helpful. I will try this approach.

I imagine my poor paint needs to be clayed as well. I'm assuming this will be a needed step prior to any of the above mentioned tacks?

Laurance

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Help - First time DA user and may have, um, issues

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