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Such a nice Corvette, I would imagine he removed some precious paint though when he used M85 on the hood.
I was thinking exactly the same thing. I assume that it's clearcoat, so of course there wasn't any blue on the pad. Regardless, though, I do enjoy Junkman's videos.
Swirls hide in the black molecular depths, only waiting for the right time to emerge and destroy your sanity.
--Al Kimel
I met this guy at the Carlisle Car Shows , He works for Adams Wax and he is Very good detailer.Adams fly's him all over for shows for them and he will actual do a full detail at the shows.
Such a nice Corvette, I would imagine he removed some precious paint though when he used M85 on the hood.
Yes sir, you are correct. However, the point of this video is to stress how safe the PC is to the novice user who is NOT going to do what I did to my pride and joy. If the novice user uses the polisher correctly, then they will have no need to worry. Even a novice will net get as reckless as I am in those videos. One more thing, M85 will not reach it's full potential when used on an orbital as it is actually made to be used on a rotary.
I could have turned around and used my rust bucket daily driver to do this demo on but who would cringe at that?
I think its funny how anti-Flex he was in the video. I love my 3401 with Ultimate Compound. It produced excellent results for me.
Not anti-Flex at all, it is just not a polisher that I would stick in the hands of someone who has never used a polisher before. Most of my videos cater to the complete novice. Thus, I only want to show them things that will NOT get them into trouble. The Flex is one of the machines I use to actually do more advanced paint correction but the last thing I want to do is stick a polisher that aggressive in the hands of a complete novice. That would be irresponsible of me.
"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
Not anti-Flex at all, it is just not a polisher that I would stick in the hands of someone who has never used a polisher before. Most of my videos cater to the complete novice. Thus, I only want to show them things that will NOT get them into trouble. The Flex is one of the machines I use to actually do more advanced paint correction but the last thing I want to do is stick a polisher that aggressive in the hands of a complete novice. That would be irresponsible of me.
I think he was responding to what I said about detailing pay. I said that they don't make nearly enough money for all the work they do. I honestly feel that way because rubbing on cars all day is back breaking work. What he was saying is that some detailers aren't worth much. I can vouch for that as this is the sole reason I started looking into detailing. Not everyone is as anal about paint as some of us are. I'm pretty sick with it.
I on the other hand work for a company called The PC Surgeon, Inc. If you Google it, you'll find out that I own the company too. Much easier work than detailing and the pay is much better too.
"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
Very convincing! I tend towards the machine adverse side and do all the waxing etc. by hand. I burned the paint on a 1964 Jaguar S type that I owned and was restoring (hobby of mine) and the cost of a respray and color match really dampened my enthusiasm. I have to say that a rethink might just be in order. I don't really do enough to get good at using the equipment in tricky places where there is a lot of fancy metal work and sweeping curves. My question would be how does something like the demonstrated portacable go with smaller pads that I need to get into some of the tricky places like around old style headlights? This pic gives you an idea of what I mean. It's an S type of the same era. (Not my handiwork, just an example).
Very convincing! I tend towards the machine adverse side and do all the waxing etc. by hand. I burned the paint on a 1964 Jaguar S type that I owned and was restoring (hobby of mine) and the cost of a respray and color match really dampened my enthusiasm. I have to say that a rethink might just be in order. I don't really do enough to get good at using the equipment in tricky places where there is a lot of fancy metal work and sweeping curves. My question would be how does something like the demonstrated portacable go with smaller pads that I need to get into some of the tricky places like around old style headlights? This pic gives you an idea of what I mean. It's an S type of the same era. (Not my handiwork, just an example).
That is one sweet Jag!
Adam's has a set of pads that they call "focal pads." They are 4" pads that also come with a backing plate which allows you to attach them to the Porter-Cable 7424 (or PC as it is called). The Mirror Glaze distributors also have a similar setup but I can't find a link to them right now. This is what I use in tight areas like you are describing. They also work excellent for removing haze off the headlights. I will PM you a link to a video of me using them. This would be a perfect solution to the issues you want to address.
"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
Junkman, good to see you hanging around MOL a little!
One thing to keep in mind when using 4" pads on a D/A - you will be concentrating the energy of the tool into that small area and the possibility of damaging the paint goes up significantly. If you get really aggressive with a 4" pad you run a much higher risk of burning the paint, or twisting it on a painted bumper cover. These smaller pads can potentially change the safety factor of the D/A and should be used with this knowledge in mind.
Michael Stoops
Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.
Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.
Junkman, good to see you hanging around MOL a little!
One thing to keep in mind when using 4" pads on a D/A - you will be concentrating the energy of the tool into that small area and the possibility of damaging the paint goes up significantly. If you get really aggressive with a 4" pad you run a much higher risk of burning the paint, or twisting it on a painted bumper cover. These smaller pads can potentially change the safety factor of the D/A and should be used with this knowledge in mind.
Believe it or not, I have found that to not be an issue with the focal pads and the PC, even with the more powerful PC-7424XP. Because of the built in clutch with the PC, the pads will slow down significantly as you apply pressure. I use these a lot around emblems and wicked contours of various cars and have not seen any issues at all. Because of the design of the PC, these pads are very friendly to the paint.
These pads are marketed to be used on a drill for spot repairs but I don't advise anyone do that. As you know, a drill is going to reproduce the action of a true rotary and the opportunity for a catastrophe is 10-fold compared to the PC.
Thanks for the welcome!
"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
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