Micro-marring when using DA and W8006

[Josh9131]

I dont post a lot but read all the time as I am learning.

My goal on this project is 90% or so correction, and in my opinion the paint has light to medium swirls, and some waterspot etching.

Working on my daily driver 2006 GMC Sierra 4x4, red in color. I washed Megs Gold Class and 2 buckets grit guards, dried with water magnets. Clayed with Mothers Showtime and Megs clay and supreme shine. Using my recently purchased Griots DA polisher, with Megs 8006 pad, ScratchX (old formula, the first one for use with DA, not the newest one labeled 2.0). Speed setting was 5 and my work area was 14x14 ish. I made 4 passes over the area and tried to move the polisher at the inch per second, but I really feel like I moved it slightly faster than that. I also cleaned my pad on the fly.

My test spot showed removal of most of my defects in only one pass, however it showed very fine circular "hooks" is how I would refer to them, after I checked my work. I attribute these marks to micro-marring from my polishing. After trying this multiple times and varying my speed setting, amount of product used, and the time I worked it, I saw the same results. I went ahead and did the whole hood and roof, knowing it wasnt going to be perfect, so I could get some experience and practice with this new tool.

If anyone has any tips to help me correct this next time I would greatly appreciate it. I feel it is in the amount of product I am using and how long I am working it, but I havent figured it out yet.

Thank you all again and sorry for the long post .

[Murr1525]

Re: Micro-marring when using DA and W8006

While it might be in your technique, I would look at trying another product also. I think #80 or #205 would get you more to where you want to be, and then if you still have a problem, at least you'll know you are using a good product/pad combination.

[Josh9131]

Re: Micro-marring when using DA and W8006

Thanks for the quick reply, I wish I would have had some 80 on hand, I have read a lot of good things about it. When I was gathering supplies Friday, I bought some 83 thinking that was what I wanted, then I got home and realized I needed 80 also. I didnt bother with the 83 since I didnt have 80 to follow up. I will get some soon and give it a go.

I also should mention I was happy to see improvement after my polishing despite the marring left behind. Still is a big improvement.

[Murr1525]

Re: Micro-marring when using DA and W8006

I'd try to take the #83 back if you can... There are better products for that place now.

[Josh9131]

Re: Micro-marring when using DA and W8006

Which product do you suggest? Something from the proffesional line? Or UC SwirlX combo? I purchased the 83 because it was listed as less aggressive than SwirlX, but I again I thought I was getting 80, which is even less aggressive. All this reading then I grab the wrong product...lol.

I would imagine using the new super-micro abrasive products would be easier to use on the DA since the work time isnt as big of factor.

[Murr1525]

Re: Micro-marring when using DA and W8006

Well, a lot of the training links are a bit older, and so are just starting to be updated with the new products.

Generally speaking, I would want #105 as the stronger cleaner, and then #205 or #80 or SwirlX as the milder cleaner. Have not tried SwirlX with a machine, but that should be a fine option for the 'milder' cleaner. It is nice that the newer products don't need to be broken down perfectly to get a good finish, but #80 shouldn't be too finicky for you.

[Josh9131]

Re: Micro-marring when using DA and W8006

I will definately pick up some of those products and give it a go again. Most likely the 80, or 205.

Thanks for the info.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Micro-marring when using DA and W8006

If you were getting defect removal with the "old" ScratchX but also finding what sounds like some pigtails from the W8006 pad, that sounds as if you've got fairly soft paint - easy to correct but also easy to mar.

Since you now just need to remove the pigtails you may want to follow up with either M205 or SwirlX - SwirlX being much less expensive and more widely available, although it sounds as though you have a good source for Mirror Glaze products locally. But you might want to try using either on a W9006 or W9207 finishing pad instead of the polishing pad. It may simply be that your paint is delicate enough that it can really benefit from a very fine approach to finish off. Try even dropping the machine speed down to 4 or even 3 for this final polishing step.

[Josh9131]

Re: Micro-marring when using DA and W8006

Thanks Michael, maybe I will give that a try also....I didnt experiment much with speed settings or pads.

Would working on speed of 3 or 4 mean working product longer also? Or not in terms of products with SMAT?

[sontakke]

Re: Micro-marring when using DA and W8006

If the paint is that soft to be marred by polishing pad, could it not be simply corrected via hand with the right product with a hand pad? I would presume not too much passion is needed in this case and a single pass should get the finish flawless. This is assuming you don't want to buy finishing pad. At least this is my thinking and if it is not right, I have to add finishing pad to my ever growing wish list of supplies.

- Vikas

[Josh9131]

Re: Micro-marring when using DA and W8006

If the paint is that soft to be marred by polishing pad, could it not be simply corrected via hand with the right product with a hand pad? I would presume not too much passion is needed in this case and a single pass should get the finish flawless. This is assuming you don't want to buy finishing pad. At least this is my thinking and if it is not right, I have to add finishing pad to my ever growing wish list of supplies.

- Vikas

Just speaking from my experience with my own personal paint, doing the work by hand does not correct the defects to the same level my new DA does. It could bee in my technique when working by hand, but i dont think my paint is that soft that my only option is working by hand.

[Murr1525]

Re: Micro-marring when using DA and W8006

If the paint is that soft to be marred by polishing pad, could it not be simply corrected via hand with the right product with a hand pad? I would presume not too much passion is needed in this case and a single pass should get the finish flawless. This is assuming you don't want to buy finishing pad. At least this is my thinking and if it is not right, I have to add finishing pad to my ever growing wish list of supplies.

- Vikas

Well, you may want a finishing pad for applying waxes anyway....

Soft paint can be tricky, and not all respond the same way. By hand may work for some, but for others may do nothing. Sometimes a milder product may be needed, sometimes a milder pad, or both. For real real soft paint, using a cleaner/wax may be best possible finishing step, since the wax gives more lubrication.

But if you are just working on your car, you just need the products your car needs, and that you want for it. And then you can likely take care of a friends car well enough. It is the people in business who have to be ready for anything.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Micro-marring when using DA and W8006

Don't overlook what can be accomplished quickly and easily with a finishing pad on a G110. As Murr points out, a finishing pad is essential when applying wax via G110 or other D/A and that combination makes it so easy to apply a very thin, very uniform coat of wax.

Same can be said of using SwirlX or M205 as a finishing polish - both will give you a nice, long buffing cycle and impart a lot of clarity to the finish when used with a finishing pad. On softer paints they can do some pretty amazing things. We had a black MX5 in our garage a few months ago and the paint was easily hazed with more aggressive products used to remove some fairly nasty defects, but a follow up with M205 on a W9207 pad and, as KC's would say, mamamia!!

[KC's]

Re: Micro-marring when using DA and W8006

Mamamia
I need to TM that phrase

yupp i agree with michael
A slow and steady hare won the race

Don't overlook what can be accomplished quickly and easily with a finishing pad on a G110. As Murr points out, a finishing pad is essential when applying wax via G110 or other D/A and that combination makes it so easy to apply a very thin, very uniform coat of wax.

Same can be said of using SwirlX or M205 as a finishing polish - both will give you a nice, long buffing cycle and impart a lot of clarity to the finish when used with a finishing pad. On softer paints they can do some pretty amazing things. We had a black MX5 in our garage a few months ago and the paint was easily hazed with more aggressive products used to remove some fairly nasty defects, but a follow up with M205 on a W9207 pad and, as KC's would say, mamamia!!