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  • #1

    cutting pads

    i have a few cutting pads, a few 4" CCS pads and a few soft buff 2.0 pads. now before i go and use them and mess up my trucks paint, are there any differences in the pads in the way i use them? i mean do i have to use more or less pressure, faster or slower arm speed, etc? i have used 1 of the 4" pads on my scooter (plastic panels) with 105 and it made this circle mark much like what you get from a soda can on a coffee table. only made 1 of these marks but i did the entire front. took 205 to it and it went right away. i have sanded my hood for painting and also practice with correcting, but i dont want to take the cutting pad and 105 to the truck and make it a mess. thanks!
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  • #2
    Re: cutting pads

    For tougher swirls or defects, you are going to need to apply more pressure and pass the defects at a slower arm speed. With more pressure, you will also need to increase the speed of your polisher because the increased pressure will slow down the rotation of the pad.

    Cutting pads are usually used with cutting compounds such as M105, Ultimate Compound, among others. The cutting pad will reduce larger swirls, while introduce fine scratches and swirls to the surface.

    I don't know what else to tell you regarding the utilization of pads. Exercise judgement and test different techniques.

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    • #3
      Re: cutting pads

      A smaller pad, like the 4" CCS pad you have, when used on a D/A buffer provide more cutting ability than a larger pad. Quite a bit more, in fact. Use caution when moving to a 4" cutting pad and an aggressive liquid such as M105. If you increase pressure and up the speed along with this, you can put a surprising amount of heat into the paint very quickly. Working on a plastic or urethane bumper cover can quickly lead to paint problems such as wrinkling and burn through.

      You may think that since you're working with a D/A buffer, and everybody says a D/A buffer is perfectly safe, that nothing can go wrong. But the combination of small pad, aggressive liquid, heavy pressure and high speed is outside the "safe zone", if you will, of D/A polishing. It can bite you quickly. Make darn sure you stop regularly and check surface temperature - if you place your hand on a just buffed spot and it hurts, you've gone too far. And you aren't checking frequently enough!
      Michael Stoops
      Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

      Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

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      • #4
        Re: cutting pads

        Originally posted by Michael Stoops View Post
        if you place your hand on a just buffed spot and it hurts, you've gone too far. And you aren't checking frequently enough!
        Hurts or just hot? I buffed with UC and my G100 on a spoiler once and it got pretty hot, but I did not have any paint problems luckily. I was surprised at how much harder it was removing the same defects from the plastic spoiler vs. the metal trunk lid. The metal trunk lid was much easier to work on. There was quite a difference. That is why I buffed longer and harder with the UC and G100 on the spoiler, which made the spoiler pretty warm compared to the metal trunk lid.
        Brian

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        • #5
          Re: cutting pads

          Originally posted by Mister B View Post
          Hurts or just hot? I buffed with UC and my G100 on a spoiler once and it got pretty hot, but I did not have any paint problems luckily. I was surprised at how much harder it was removing the same defects from the plastic spoiler vs. the metal trunk lid. The metal trunk lid was much easier to work on. There was quite a difference. That is why I buffed longer and harder with the UC and G100 on the spoiler, which made the spoiler pretty warm compared to the metal trunk lid.
          Had you used the same technique on the metal trunk lid you would have felt that additional heat too. But that heat can be dangerous when applied to different substrates. The paint on the spoiler may not have had a flex agent in it since a spoiler isn't expected to flex/deform like a bumper cover is. That alone may be what saved you from a nasty problem. Heat dissipation is different on these different substrates, so be extra cautious when you feel a more aggressive approach is needed.

          As for temperatures and what's hot, what hurts, etc. If the paint feels like it's just been sitting in the sun for a few minutes you're fine. But if you'd really rather not keep your hand on the paint (think black car in the sun for a few hours) then you really need to ease up. That could be less pressure or, more likely, just less dwell time on a given spot. Move on to another area and let the hot spot cool - and try not to let an area really get hot again. You could be walking a pretty fine line at that point.
          Michael Stoops
          Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

          Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

          Comment

          • #6
            Re: cutting pads

            thanks! yeah i knew the 4" would be more aggressive, but wasnt sure what problems to expect. i am going to attempt the 7" cutting pads this weekend on my hood, i will def keep checking for heat.

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