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Hands hurt, but not enough pressure?

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  • #16
    Re: Hands hurt, but not enough pressure?

    Just to sorta side track... Is it normal to go through an entire bottle of quick detailer while claying one car?

    My dad's car was really really dirty, I think through at least 4/5th the bottle.. Maybe 3/4ths...

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    • #17
      Re: Hands hurt, but not enough pressure?

      Originally posted by xantonin View Post
      Dang, I thought it was pretty hard lol. Could you give me some examples of cars that have traditionally harder paint?
      GM Premium Clear (Vette's, Cadillac's, Hummer, etc.) amd Mercedes Benz CeramiClear are two of the hardest clear coats you will ever deal with. Now don't confuse hardness with scratch-resistant. The truth is, traditionally hard clears are very scratch-sensitive.

      I sort of tried a test spot on the trunk. I guess because the car was light colored, I wasn't worried too much and just wanted to experience. And since it wasn't my car I was sorta worried about removing too much.
      Very hard to remove "too much" with a G110. Your test area is going to set the tone for the entire job. Make sure you perfect your technique and combination there...not over the course of the job.

      I just feel that if I were to do a test spot, in most cases the most aggressive product will always be best. I think that if you use the least aggressive product, it may remove some of the marks but not all. For example when you have random deep scratches, depending on the frequency, how do you determine to just use the product aggressive enough to remove them over the entire car VS removing all but them? Not sure I explained that right...
      What I do is dial down a process over my test area. Because I have done so many cars I typically have a pad/product combination in mind and start there. I wouldn't start, say from a finishing pad with a cleaner wax (most mild combo), on a hard clearcoat with a weak product because experience tells me it won't remove any defects. To determine the severity of RIDS around the car I use a lumen tester and my fingernail. If your fingernail catches the scratch it isn't coming out with a G110 alone...plain and simple. With a G110 don't overextend yourself. Shoot for swirl and marring removal and RID minimization and then you can spot-correct severe RIDS later on.

      Question, why is using the M9207 cutting pad not recommended for the DA?
      That aside you're totally right, I didn't do enough passes. :/
      This will answer your question:



      I'll have to experiment with that. Right now I've got it at a right angle.

      Thanks for the reply too!
      Try the bale handle set all the way forward. This allows you to put pressure on the head of the unit without being directly over it and taking the full force of the vibration. Try and see how you like it.

      Glad to help...

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      • #18
        Re: Hands hurt, but not enough pressure?

        Originally posted by xantonin View Post
        Just to sorta side track... Is it normal to go through an entire bottle of quick detailer while claying one car?

        My dad's car was really really dirty, I think through at least 4/5th the bottle.. Maybe 3/4ths...
        Yup...if it's the smaller one. Once you start realizing all the quick detailer you go thru, Meg's Last Touch in the gallon size diluted 1:1 is an incredible bargain for an outstanding product.

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        • #19
          Re: Hands hurt, but not enough pressure?

          What I do is dial down a process over my test area. Because I have done so many cars I typically have a pad/product combination in mind and start there. I wouldn't start, say from a finishing pad with a cleaner wax (most mild combo), on a hard clearcoat with a weak product because experience tells me it won't remove any defects. To determine the severity of RIDS around the car I use a lumen tester and my fingernail. If your fingernail catches the scratch it isn't coming out with a G110 alone...plain and simple. With a G110 don't overextend yourself. Shoot for swirl and marring removal and RID minimization and then you can spot-correct severe RIDS later on.
          That's just the answer I was looking for! I guess then the idea is to get a 90% correction, or at least some high percent of correction. Because let's face it, if you used a machine to remove all the paint as much as the deepest scratch there wouldn't be much paint left! (Not saying this is possible with the G110 but that was my example)



          Also great thread. I take it that was in response to my question about the cutting pad. I'll have to wait for a day that I can become braver and try it although I don't think I'll ever need to...

          I'll try that suggestion with the bale handle next time.

          As for Last Touch, I assume using distilled water is best for the 50/50 mix eh?

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          • #20
            Re: Hands hurt, but not enough pressure?

            Originally posted by xantonin View Post
            I'll try that suggestion with the bale handle next time.

            As for Last Touch, I assume using distilled water is best for the 50/50 mix eh?
            Doesn't have to be but you can use that if it is your preference. I have one of those Brita water filtration units attached to my faucet so I just use the filtered water from that and have never had an issue.

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