Limitations of the G110?

[MarkH]

I have done extensive reading on multiple forums (here autopia autogeek) and the general consensus is that while the G110 is a great machine, it does have limitations. This is not a "should I buy the G110 or should I just buy a Flex" thread (well not exactly.) My question is this: What EXACTLY are the limitations of the G110? I have seen many posts about how easy it is to use, how safe it is, and (generally) what it can do. What I want to know is what it can't do. Where is the line in the sand regarding it's correction abilities?

This may very well be a question without a hard and fast answer. I do understand there are quite a few variables involved such as pad, product, and the hardness of paint you are working on.

Forgive me if this has been addressed already. I've gone through quite a few pages of thread and tried searching, but found nothing that really answers this question.

[Superior Shine]

Re: Limitations of the G110?

I tried to mix cake batter with it once.............. don't try it, long story.

[ClearlyCoated]

Re: Limitations of the G110?

Choice of DA, G110 or PC?please help~

Read comment #3 posted by Mark Kleis

[Andrew C.]

Re: Limitations of the G110?

I tried to mix cake batter with it once.............. don't try it, long story.

[cardriver]

Re: Limitations of the G110?

Well, I've used my G110 once (just got it last week), and I'm very pleased with its quietness (on speed 4, someone 25 feet away wouldn't even know that you were using it), and indeed it is definitely noob-proof--If you add like 5 ounces of force more than the weight of the machine while it's against your paint, the machine seriously, and I mean seriously bogs down. You could gently touch your pinky finger against the pad while it's oscillating and it will stop. That concerns me as well...and I'm already saving up for the stronger 3401 Flex as a result in the hopes that I can get more power and still be relatively noob-friendly.

I only used the G110 for application of #7/fPad & NXT/fPad on this occasion, both of which did nothing to correct the very light/mild & few isolated scratches on my 2009's soft Civic paint hood (didn't expect #7 and an fpad to do anything for correction, even though the labels are a complete lie in their claim to remedy faint swirls--Don't worry, every brand makes outstanding claims). Only reason I didn't use the 205 this time was that I foolishly only set aside 6 hours to do my wash + 1-2 step correction work, and didn't have enough time to test spot the 205 .

Next time though, I'll step it up to the 205 and a polishing pad and see how the results go. I also picked up some 105 and will see if this combo really packs the magical power that people claim .
As for time-saving ability with the DA, for corrective work, I definitely see this being faster and more effective than hand-work. For wax and beauty-treatment and protection application (the products one uses after corrective work)...I found that I spent more time doing passes and working the stuff in * overlapping (not sure if one should "work in" NXT etc), compared with handwork.
I've got a pretty gnarly job ahead and look forward to dialing in the process...hopefully one that works!

All in all, I'll withhold judgement for now, but initial impressions tell me that (due to the noobproof goal of the G110) might be a little on the weak side, especially when cleaning the pad on the fly with two finger segments' worth of MF cloth & barely any pressure is enough to stop the rotation of the pad...

Such being the case...maybe the magic is (obviously technique is important) less in the machine, and more in the chemicals.

[Markus Kleis]

Re: Limitations of the G110?

Well, I've used my G110 once (just got it last week), and I'm very pleased with its quietness (on speed 4, someone 25 feet away wouldn't even know that you were using it), and indeed it is definitely noob-proof--If you add like 5 ounces of force more than the weight of the machine while it's against your paint, the machine seriously, and I mean seriously bogs down. You could gently touch your pinky finger against the pad while it's oscillating and it will stop. That concerns me as well...and I'm already saving up for the stronger 3401 Flex as a result in the hopes that I can get more power and still be relatively noob-friendly.

I only used the G110 for application of #7/fPad & NXT/fPad on this occasion, both of which did nothing to correct the very light/mild & few isolated scratches on my 2009's soft Civic paint hood (didn't expect #7 and an fpad to do anything for correction, even though the labels are a complete lie in their claim to remedy faint swirls--Don't worry, every brand makes outstanding claims). Only reason I didn't use the 205 this time was that I foolishly only set aside 6 hours to do my wash + 1-2 step correction work, and didn't have enough time to test spot the 205 .

Hello Cardriver,

I wanted to point a few things out, and also make sure I understood this correctly for your sake, and everyone else reading this.

For one, I noticed you have only used it once, and you used it purely to spread a non-abrasive product (pure polish and wax). I also saw where you mentioned speed 4, but I wasn't sure if you tried speed 5 as well?

There is a considerable difference in power between speed 4 and 5, which is why I wanted to mention that. The lack of power you mentioned may be for that reason.

Also, the correct weight (depending on the job, product, pad, paint, etc) ranges from virtually nothing but the machine weight itself, to in some situations as much as 15 to 20 pounds of pressure- which is a heck of a lot more than 5 ounces!

You either have something wrong with the machine, slightly exaggerated on the amount of weight, or possibly a combination of both

At any rate, I hope you give the machine a shot again and next time be sure to try out speed 5 with the polish, and make sure you keep the pad flat (one way to bog the machine down in a hurry is to try and work on an edge of the pad rather than keeping it flat).

[Bunky]

Re: Limitations of the G110?

I watched Mike Phillips use a G110 at Detail Fest and I know you can hear it 25 ft away at any speed and I think the "5 ounce" comment is not correct. I have a UDM (original with more or less same OPM's) and it works great. I am wondering if the machine used was a G110.

I think 105/205 gives the DA new capabilities that more people can take use effectiively and more efficiently (more get in, get out) so I think "chemistry" is great.

[ceyko]

Re: Limitations of the G110?

There is a considerable difference in power between speed 4 and 5, which is why I wanted to mention that. The lack of power you mentioned may be for that reason.

Very true. I was trying to get my G110 to spin a little after the product was spread and getting frustrated. On 3-4 it is not much different then those orbital buffers you can buy for 20 bucks. On 5-6 is where it earns its money in my opinion.

Prior to setting it to 5, I was about to box it back up and send it back for a refund.

[Bounty]

Re: Limitations of the G110?

Choice of DA, G110 or PC?please help~

Read comment #3 posted by Mark Kleis

You also want to check out post # 10 of that thread...

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Limitations of the G110?

My question is this: What EXACTLY are the limitations of the G110? I have seen many posts about how easy it is to use, how safe it is, and (generally) what it can do. What I want to know is what it can't do. Where is the line in the sand regarding it's correction abilities?

If you push down too hard on the head of the unit, in other words, if you push down too hard while the face of the pad is in contact with the paint the pad will stop rotating.

Defects are removed by removing paint. The G110, G220, G100, UDM and Porter Cable 7224 and 7336 all remove paint best when the pad is rotating against the paint, not just vibrating against it.

So if you push down too hard the pad will quit rotating and you'll stop removing paint. This is the safety feature everyone loves because it prevents you from removing too much paint, (burning through the top layer), and also prevent you from instilling swirls into the paint. It's also the safety feature some people come to dislike because it limits you're ability to aggressively remove paint; you have to work slower and focus on the task at hand and use good technique.

In the hands of a seasoned professional that knows how to correctly use a Dual Action Polisher, and this person knows how to select, test and after confirming the pad and product of choice is working, this person can do amazing correction work the a dual action polisher.

For someone just starting out they will be lacking in experience and thus skill and ability and theres a little bit of a learning curve to go through just like there will be with ANY machine.

We wrote this a few years ago as it outlines all the common mistakes people make when learning to use a dual action polisher followed by the remedies.

How To use: G110 - G220 - G100 - PC/Porter Cable - UDM
If you're moving up to machine polishing, be sure to read the below thread before starting...
Tips & Techniques for using the G110, G100, G220 and the PC Dual Action Polisher
(These are all similar tools)





The dual action polisher is a great first machine to get into and master. You can definitely get better results faster with a dual action polisher than you can by hand or any traditional orbital buffer.

You have to use good technique to do paint correction, (remove defects), and this requires you to put some hours behind the tool. It is for the most part "Bubba-Proof", which is a great feature for anyone ready to move past working by hand and move up to working by machine.

It is the wrong tool for trying to remove sanding marks out of an entire car, for example you have your car painted, now you want to sand down the entire car to remove the orange peel. Contemplating using a tool with a clutch to remove enough paint quickly and effectively enough is the wrong tool for the job. A rotary buffer, direct drive rotating tool is the correct tool for this kind of work.

Hope this helps a little to answer your question.

[MarkH]

Re: Limitations of the G110?

In the hands of a seasoned professional that knows how to correctly use a Dual Action Polisher, and this person knows how to select, test and after confirming the pad and product of choice is working, this person can do amazing correction work the a dual action polisher.

For someone just starting out they will be lacking in experience and thus skill and ability and theres a little bit of a learning curve to go through just like there will be with ANY machine.

You have to use good technique to do paint correction, (remove defects), and this requires you to put some hours behind the tool. It is for the most part "Bubba-Proof", which is a great feature for anyone ready to move past working by hand and move up to working by machine.

It is the wrong tool for trying to remove sanding marks out of an entire car, for example you have your car painted, now you want to sand down the entire car to remove the orange peel. Contemplating using a tool with a clutch to remove enough paint quickly and effectively enough is the wrong tool for the job. A rotary buffer, direct drive rotating tool is the correct tool for this kind of work.

Thanks everyone for the replies. Special thanks to Mike Phillips! Your post (the entire post not just what I pasted here) sheds a lot of light on the situation, but I did cut out the parts that really (to me) addressed my question!

[3Fitty]

Re: Limitations of the G110?

I'm kind of surprised nobody mentioned the G110 + the new M205/M105 combo. I feel like that new combo changed the game with respect to the effectiveness of the G110.

In other words, M105 (in particular) made the G110 A LOT LESS limited and the ability to correct paint A LOT quicker than with other compounds of the past.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Limitations of the G110?

I'm kind of surprised nobody mentioned the G110 + the new M205/M105 combo. I feel like that new combo changed the game with respect to the effectiveness of the G110.

In other words, M105 (in particular) made the G110 A LOT LESS limited and the ability to correct paint A LOT quicker than with other compounds of the past.

The new M105/M205 Tag Team as well as the Consumer versions, UC and SwirlX are game changers in that they work so well no matter how you apply them, alas they haven't changed the pressure issue as it applies to the clutch in a DA polisher.

Even with the above products if you push too hard, hold the pad at an angle to the panel, or if the pad becomes saturated with product it's going to effect it's ability to rotate the pad over the surface.

Dual Action Polishers are still great tools, you just need to be aware of their limitations, (what this thread talks about), and above all, a person needs to invest some hours behind the tool learning to master it's positive abilities to their max.


Then do some of this...

[cardriver]

Re: Limitations of the G110?

I'll definitely have to try my G110 on speed 5 or 6 to see if I get the rotational force I desire so that it doesn't bog down significantly. I know that on 3.5 (the speed I used for #7 & NXT), the pad would stop rotating with very little effort at all. I wouldn't even call it effort, actually. I stand by the 5oz thing .
And on speed 3.5, mine is about as quiet, or more quiet than a standard hair dryer on the hair dryer's lowest setting. That's pretty darn quiet! I'm not sure if your G110's are like that, but I'll have to find another G110 so I can compare. Mine seems so gentle to the point that it makes me think the corrective power lies in the m105 & m205, rather than in the DA. Guess I'll find out soon enough in my next correction session !

Maybe someone can recommend to me the speeds with which to use 105, 205, #7, and NXT? I use the 7'' SoftBuff 2.0 pads btw.

[ClearlyCoated]

Re: Limitations of the G110?

You also want to check out post # 10 of that thread...

Of course!