G110 pad not rotating? Too much pressure?

[MX-0]

I just got my G-110 the other day and wants to try it out on my 1993 Volvo 240 wagon. It is in pretty poor shape and has a lot of flat surfaces so I figured it would be the ideal test subject. Well, I worked on it for a while and got absolutely nowhere. I'll try to go through the process step by step and maybe you guys can tell me what I did wrong.

I put the 105 on in a thick X. I started with my passes up and down between speed 4.5 and 5. I wiped the area clean (which was a pain because it was hard to get off [user error?]). Then I went with another pass side to side. My work area was probably a little larger than it should have been but I would still have expected some results. I noticed that frequently my pad wouldn't be rotating, just ocillating. So I would ease up on the pressure so that it would be rotating with a decent speed. Maybe I was using too much pressure or maybe the pad wasn't lubricated enough to spin under the pressure? Also, I was wondering what everyone thought about 4" pads (I was using 7"). Whenever I applied more product, I would do it in either a thin circle or a thin X. I used a variety of arm speeds just to test it out and fast or slow, the paint looks just like it did when I started. Also, if it's any indication, I tried using 105 by hand to get an etched bird dropping off. I used it with a foam applicator, rubbed hard for probably between 30 and 45 seconds, and there was no change. Would I have gotten better results if I had done it for longer or is the clear coat on the Volvo just that beastly that I couldn't make a dent?

I hope I gave enough info for one of you guys to diagnose my problem. Because the Volvo is pretty much my daily driver and a personal vehicle it's OK if it's not 100%. But I want to work on my mom's 01 red Echo next week so I want to bring my A game. Thanks in advance.

[Andrew C.]

Re: G110 pad not rotating? Too much pressure?

Chances are you were just using too much pressure if it was oscillating but not rotating, just ease up on your pressure until it does both. As for the drying product, make sure to work about a square foot area that way the product doesn't dry on you.

[MX-0]

Re: G110 pad not rotating? Too much pressure?

Thanks for the response Andrew C. I think I may have figured out the problem. I didn't prime the pad correctly (Kevin Brown method). Then, when I put too much pressure on the pad, the product went into the pad instead of spreading itself across. So next time I will properly prime the pad, work in a smaller area, and try to find a happy medium as far as pressure goes. Would not priming the pad cause it to not spin (too much friction) or does the M105 inherently create more friction so it would be easier if the pad was dry? Hopefully I'm not confusing anyone (except myself).

Also, do older Volvos have really hard paint and that could have contributed to the problem?

[Mike Phillips]

Re: G110 pad not rotating? Too much pressure?

When you start, first spread your product out over the area you're going to work first, then slow down and start making your overlapping passes.

When removing defects you want to HOLD THE PAD FLAT against the paint otherwise it won't rotate and then apply as much downward pressure to the head of the unit as you can while still maintaining a fairly quick rotating action of the pad.

Use a black felt marker to place some marks on the back of the pad so you can more easily see if the pad is rotating or not.

Then read through this and see if you're making any of the more common mistakes...

How To use: G110 - G220 - G100 - PC/Porter Cable - UDM
If you're moving up to machine polishing, be sure to read the below thread before starting...
Tips & Techniques for using the G110, G100, G220 and the PC Dual Action Polisher
(These are all similar tools)

[Mike Phillips]

Re: G110 pad not rotating? Too much pressure?

Thanks for

Also, do older Volvos have really hard paint and that could have contributed to the problem?

Hard to say.

I can't tell if a paint is hard or soft until I do my first test spot and then wipe the residue off and inspect to see how well or how not-well the swirls and scratches are coming out of the paint.


TEST SPOT

Doing A Test-Spot

Before going over the entire car, see if you can make just one small section look good, that is apply the product you're planning on using over the entire car to just one small section about a foot squared or so. Work it in and then wipe it off, then apply the polish, work it in but not as much as the compound because now you're not trying to remove paint, just spread the product out, then immediately wipe it off, then apply the wax and let it fully dry and then wipe it off.

Now inspect our results. Make sure you can make one small section look GREAT before going over then entire car. If you can't make one small section look GREAT you won't be able to make the entire car look GREAT.

Make sense?

It should look like this,




And if you're having any problems, the post back here after the test section and we'll help you tweak your technique to insure you get it right.