What next???

[subdriver96]

Hi, I've been working on my wife's beige metallic G35 coupe in preparation for the arrival of my car (she's selling it, and I need to practice before mine arrives!). I'm following the normal 5-step process as indicated in the FAQs.

While using the G110, I started cleaning the top with ScratchX (seemed relatively mild) and a moderate amount of pressure, but some small scratches and a bird etch just weren't going away. I switched to #83 DACP and two further applications. Better results, but still there when I look at it obliquely. It doesn't matter too much here, but I want to be able to remove this sort of thing long term as well. I did some searching yesterday and this morning, but can't find the abrasiveness scale (I Know I've seen it!!!) on the sight.

Can someone provide a link/ advice as to whihch products to try next. Btw, I am using a 4" Lake polishing pad as well here - wanted to start my use of the G110 with something smaller - felt I would have better control. Thanks,

Greg

[yalerd]

Re: What next???

For the bird etching you may have better results doing the job by hand.
How To Remove a Bird Dropping Etching by Hand using M105 Ultra Cut Compound

You can also wait and get the new products Meguiar's will be launching that have a new type of abrasive that could be more effective with this task

[akimel]

Re: What next???

Check out this thread: PC + 83 not "Cutting" it! (The Limits of Dual Action Polisher).

[Mike Phillips]

Re: What next???

Removing swirls and scratches mean removing paint.

Usually what happens when you buff is that all the lighter swirls and scratches are removed and what's left over, the deeper swirls and scratches will show up like a sore thumb.

We call these RIDS which stands for Random Isolated Deeper Scratches.

Removing RIDS by just buffing and buffing and buffing with a DA Polisher will take a long time, it's faster to get more complicated and sand out the individual RIDS and then remove your sanding marks using a rotary buffer.

Now were talking about a much more complicated procedure best used for show cars, not daily drivers and not daily drivers you're going to sell.

Just removing the majority of all the shallow scratches is a huge improvement and in most cases your car will have a better looking finish than all the cars in any given day on a randomly chosen grocery store parking lot.

If you're serious about removing RIDS then click on the word exert in the Popular Tags box in the right hand column on the forum homepage.

This one...

The Popular Tags Box

Or do a search on Feathersanding

[subdriver96]

Re: What next???

Thanks guys. Those were two of the threads I had read previously and could not find again. I will likely get a bottle of M105, sounds awesome!!! (I have truly enjoyed the hand work I have done while waiting for the G110, and will likely continue to do some).

Mike: Thanks, and you are absolutely correct about it looking better - initial hand work with DC system and ScratchX did wonders. After that though,I was working to improve her car's appearance a little more for the sale and doing some experimenting with the G110 and I came across a few issues that I thought I might encounter it at a later date with my new car (although it also will be a daily driver, I am hoping to keep it looking as good as possible throughout my ownership like I did my last vehicle – although I am much better armed now that I have discovered MOL!!!!).

I will take a look at the sanding (what I've read so far gives me a little pause, but it sounds doable with a fair amount of preparation and caution. As usual, your advice is well-tempered with common sense . Thanks again.

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[Mike Phillips]

Re: What next???

I will take a look at the sanding (what I've read so far gives me a little pause, but it sounds doable with a fair amount of preparation and caution. As usual, your advice is well-tempered with common sense . Thanks again.

One thing we like to point out on this forum that seems to be lacking on most other forums unless they're reading this forum and taking this back to share with others... the majority of all wet-sanding is done on fresh paint at a local body shop within a day or two after a car has been painted.

All to often people read about wet-sanding on other forums and then think they can sand down their factory thin and factory hard baked-on paint and then quickly and easily buff out their sanding marks and that is a great idea but far cry from reality.

Also, never learn how to wet-sand, cut and polish on anything that's important to you.

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Noticed the above garbled code in your post and thought I would share this link with you just as a heads up... Also, took the liberty to remove some of the garbled code in your last post to make the text read easier.

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28946

[subdriver96]

Re: What next???

Thanks Mike. I did do that this time. Sorry.

Also, I got the part about wet-sanding (I have done a lot of reading recently!!) and definitely understand about factory vs. new paint. IF I ever decide to go there, I will practice practice practice on a "junk" panel and ensure I read tons more and get all the right material first - being what we call a "nuke" in the Navy for 15+ years has made me a "bit" AR about doing things the right way..... after all, "There's always time for rework - better to do it right the first time!!!"