Firs time usage of G220 by a rookie

[baksojoni]

Hi all, greetings from Indonesia. Purchased a G220 from Meg Indonesia 2 weeks ago, used it this morning on the engine hood of my Honda 2008 CRV (black). Hv been used to detail my car by hands, getting tired of doing it.

conditions (car purchased in July):
- swirls: moderate
- water spots/marks: moderate

Products used:
- GC car wash
- Clay kit
- M80 (using 8006 pad)
- NXT 2.0 (using 9006 pad)
- Meg MF & Meg MF Watermagnet


Time spent (from wash to buffing the NXT 2.0)=1 hour

Results: great, but some water spots & swirls are still there, but I think because the G220 was on speed 3 when I used M80, and I tend to over pressed the pad half the time when using M80, so the pad marker on the yellow backing plate (used a permanent marker like what Mike suggested) tend to be still, not rotating. The trembling of using G220 is something to get used to though. The noise/sound: it's not loud, nothing that you can complain about.

Pictures: not yet, probably later, I'm late for a Meg clinic starting in 45 minutes, Matt Davies will be doing it. won't miss it for sure.

Questions:
- I spent 15 minutes applying M80, another 15 minutes for NXT.20 using G220. 15 minutes each for the hood, is it too long, or too quick?
- how long do I have to wait for the NXT 2.0 before I buff it up? (i waited 15 minutes)
- when using fresh pad, can I moist the pad using Quik Detailer Mist'n wipe?
- the difficult part of the hood when using G220, is the side parts of the hood, the pad tends to be still. any tips Mike?
- when applying the wax, can I switch it directly to speed 5?

Will try the G220 again tomorrow for the whole car, will post more questions as I go on this journey of mine w/ G220... :-)

cheers.

[Nappers]

Re: Firs time usage of G220 by a rookie

Time spent (from wash to buffing the NXT 2.0)=1 hour

Results: great, but some water spots & swirls are still there, but I think because the G220 was on speed 3 when I used M80, and I tend to over pressed the pad half the time when using M80, so the pad marker on the yellow backing plate (used a permanent marker like what Mike suggested) tend to be still, not rotating. The trembling of using G220 is something to get used to though. The noise/sound: it's not loud, nothing that you can complain about.

Pictures: not yet, probably later, I'm late for a Meg clinic starting in 45 minutes, Matt Davies will be doing it. won't miss it for sure.

Good choice on products to start. I press hard enough to let the pad spin as you state using black marks on pads, however, make sure you Clean The Pad on the fly after every application.....

Check this link: How to use the G100 (G220) to get rid of Swirls etc

This link will help with how much product to put on your pad too:

How To Apply Product To The Face of Pad

Questions:
- I spent 15 minutes applying M80, another 15 minutes for NXT.20 using G220. 15 minutes each for the hood, is it too long, or too quick?

Depends.....I do a 12X12 section at a time and work the product in until it appears to have done it's job and wipe it off and proceed (after a test spot to make sure I get a process dialed in)

- how long do I have to wait for the NXT 2.0 before I buff it up? (i waited 15 minutes)

Do a Swipe Test and make sure it's cured before wiping off.

- when using fresh pad, can I moist the pad using Quik Detailer Mist'n wipe?
- the difficult part of the hood when using G220, is the side parts of the hood, the pad tends to be still. any tips Mike?

Some people do, but using the G220 with the products is not necessary. I will mist a pad when using my Rotary for that first start up lubricity and used to mist my pads when using my G100 but don't anymore.

- when applying the wax, can I switch it directly to speed 5?

Most use speed 3 when applying waxes, now Cleaner waxes are a different story.

This link will help you with speeds and what not.....

Product Pad and Speed Settings

Will try the G220 again tomorrow for the whole car, will post more questions as I go on this journey of mine w/ G220... :-)

cheers.

Do a test spot always when doing your car. I work on our two cars, '00 GMC Yukon and an '05 Dodge Neon, both very different in how to dial in a process and each time it changed as I knocked down the swirls and maintain them.

A test spot will save you from doing your whole car then not liking it and starting over.

M80 is a good start, M83 is more aggressive and there are new products coming out as well as M105 which some have experimented with the PC and by hand......sky's the limit and my little corner of Meguiar's stuff and an understanding wife has been fun to say the least.

[yalerd]

Re: Firs time usage of G220 by a rookie

Results: great, but some water spots & swirls are still there, but I think because the G220 was on speed 3 when I used M80, and I tend to over pressed the pad half the time when using M80, so the pad marker on the yellow backing plate (used a permanent marker like what Mike suggested) tend to be still, not rotating.

When you are in the cleaning phase you should use a the G220 in speed 5. That's why you didn't see the pad rotating because the DA was in speed 3 and with this speed you won't have enough power to remove some defects

- when using fresh pad, can I moist the pad using Quik Detailer Mist'n wipe?

You won't hurt it but it's not something you have to do when using a G110/G220

- the difficult part of the hood when using G220, is the side parts of the hood, the pad tends to be still. any tips Mike?

Try not to apply so much pressure to let the pad start rotating and remember to keep the pad flat on the surface

- when applying the wax, can I switch it directly to speed 5?

It's the other way around, next time apply a product like M80 in speed 5 and a wax / pure polish in speed 3

Good luck

[J. A. Michaels]

Re: Firs time usage of G220 by a rookie

Congrats.
There is always alearning curve when trying new things. Follow the links and advice given and your Honda will be looking great. Good luck.

[baksojoni]

Re: Firs time usage of G220 by a rookie

Thanks Nappers, all good tips. This morning, i didn't clean the pad on every each application, and didnt do the test test also.

from the list below, which is the best for removing moderate swirls using G220?
- Scratch X
- M9
- M80
- M83

Hi Francis, thanks also man, didnt realize the speed has that much affect on the swirls removing results, will do it at 5 when using M80/83. Btw, what do you mean that moisting the pad isnt that required when using G220?

Thanks JA, all good tips, espec. the speed, pressure level, and cleaning the pad on the fly.

will keep posting the progress, and questions, so other rookies can learn also from my mistakes.

cheers all.

[yalerd]

Re: Firs time usage of G220 by a rookie

what do you mean that moisting the pad isnt that required when using G220?

When using a DA polisher you don't have to spray the pad, you can go right and apply the product to the pad and start working. It's a personal choice

[baksojoni]

Re: Firs time usage of G220 by a rookie

When using a DA polisher you don't have to spray the pad, you can go right and apply the product to the pad and start working. It's a personal choice

understood, thanks mate :-)

[baksojoni]

Re: Firs time usage of G220 by a rookie

from the list below, which is the best for removing moderate swirls using G220?
- Scratch X
- M9
- M80
- M83

got some info from the forum threads on my question above, basically i should start w/ the least aggressive product, and go higher if the swirls won't budge.

but some people in the forum suggested to use combinations of similar products w/ different aggressiveness scale, like using 82 right after 80. Why do people want to do that?

Thanks.

[Nappers]

Re: Firs time usage of G220 by a rookie

but some people in the forum suggested to use combinations of similar products w/ different aggressiveness scale, like using 82 right after 80. Why do people want to do that?

Thanks.

82 is less aggressive as M80.

At times, you need to combat your paints' flaws, sometimes the results are good to get rid of scratches but hazing is left from the product, using a less aggressive product will get rid of the hazing or marring. Usually a compound to get rid of sanding needs to be followed up with a polish/paint cleaner.

hopefully that's clear as mud.

[baksojoni]

Re: Firs time usage of G220 by a rookie

82 is less aggressive as M80.

At times, you need to combat your paints' flaws, sometimes the results are good to get rid of scratches but hazing is left from the product, using a less aggressive product will get rid of the hazing or marring. Usually a compound to get rid of sanding needs to be followed up with a polish/paint cleaner.

hopefully that's clear as mud.

thanks nappers. i dont have m82,can i use 80 or 83,immediately followed by m09?

and do you have pictures of what marring,hazing look like? thanks.

[Murr1525]

Re: Firs time usage of G220 by a rookie

The idea is to start with "least agressive", but #80 is not super agressive. It would be fine as a starting point, and may be all you need.

[Nappers]

Re: Firs time usage of G220 by a rookie

First, always do a test spot as mentioned. I usually start with M80 then work my way up or down as it is needed.

I have started with M02, a paint cleaner (more of a cutter) then followed with if I remember right, M83 and M09 (Dodge Neon, very tough clear coat). You may just get away with M80 and all is good, the reason for the test spot . The popular combo of past was M83 followed by M80.

With new products coming out, the new ones being M105 and M205(out soon or now) may be new ways to conquer swirls. Also the new SwirlX and Ultimate Compound may work as well. I have no experience with those products. I have used M105 by hand to remove swirls out of my metal trim on our Yukon and by hand to remove scratches on our cars. It's amazing stuff. I have not tried it by machine yet (I just have a sample and don't want to use it all up).

I don't really have a picture of marring/hazing. The paint will look okay but kinda cloudy that looks like you can run your finger through to clean it.....thats how I translate the look.....maybe others will chime in.

Test spot, Test spot, Test spot. Get a process dialed in before doing the whole car, it takes the longest to get a process dialed in (for me anyway)but it's worth it in the long run. I tend to do test spots on the more abused areas of cars, roof, hood, tops of doors etc. Why? I guess they are the most abused and the rest of the car will go smoother.....

Patience is another key! The miracle in a bottle with one pass may not make your car flawless. It will take more than one pass usually. Some cars have a very soft finish and only require say M09 or ColorX wax (A cleaner wax) to get the shine back. Other cars need a wool pad and an aggressive product to knock down the swirls (my Neon).

Have fun.

Aaron

[baksojoni]

Re: Firs time usage of G220 by a rookie

The idea is to start with "least agressive", but #80 is not super agressive. It would be fine as a starting point, and may be all you need.

.so when does one use M 09?for what kind of conditions?

thanks.

[baksojoni]

Re: Firs time usage of G220 by a rookie

First, always do a test spot as mentioned. I usually start with M80 then work my way up or down as it is needed.

I have started with M02, a paint cleaner (more of a cutter) then followed with if I remember right, M83 and M09 (Dodge Neon, very tough clear coat).

Aaron, what's the easy way to know whether your clear coat is soft, moderate, or tough?

Test spot, Test spot, Test spot. Get a process dialed in before doing the whole car, it takes the longest to get a process dialed in (for me anyway)but it's worth it in the long run. I tend to do test spots on the more abused areas of cars, roof, hood, tops of doors etc. Why? I guess they are the most abused and the rest of the car will go smoother.....

got it mate, will put Test Spot up there in my personal polishing steps checklist. will start with the engine hood by separating it into 4 sections, and use products w/ different aggressiveness.

thanks Aaron.

btw, I tried to clean the pad on the fly based on Mike' post (w/ the picture of a guy named Cisco doing the pad cleaning), somehow it doesnt work that well, is it probably because I used light coats of products, so cleaning is not that required yet?

[Nappers]

Re: Firs time usage of G220 by a rookie

.so when does one use M 09?for what kind of conditions?

thanks.

It's a product in the step of aggressive that you may or may not need. I use it all the time on my '00 Yukon, it's pretty maintained once I learned and knocked down the swirls. It's a good paint cleaner.

Aaron, what's the easy way to know whether your clear coat is soft, moderate, or tough?

When your technique/product use is correct and swirls/scratches are hard to get rid of, then it requires stepping up aggressivness. My Neon has a hard clear coat, meaning I have to use a higher aggressive product (not using M105/M205 yet ) and then a lower aggressive product to clean that up. It's also easy to scratch (one pass through a car wash swirls it bad). The Yukon is softer and easier to work on. It's not as easy to scratch and I can go a year without a full detail and usually a clay and ColorX topped by my wax of choice after is all it needs. Different cars, different paints, put on and mixed by different people.....

got it mate, will put Test Spot up there in my personal polishing steps checklist. will start with the engine hood by separating it into 4 sections, and use products w/ different aggressiveness.

You want to stick to ONE test spot, try one product if that doesn't produce the finish you want, then go to the next step of aggressiveness (lower or higher)

btw, I tried to clean the pad on the fly based on Mike' post (w/ the picture of a guy named Cisco doing the pad cleaning), somehow it doesnt work that well, is it probably because I used light coats of products, so cleaning is not that required yet?

When you first start out, your pad won't saturate as bad as when you keep going, believe me, it will fill up, I use 2-3 pads for each car and sometimes clean them inbetween!

I use a terry cloth on the face and turn it on 5 and squeeze the product out on to the cloth. When I get far into a detail, I put the pad on my rotary and clean on the fly and it's amazing how much comes out!

Have fun.