possible for #80 to be too aggresive?

[tucsondude]

I have a repainted dark green 2001 nissan sentra with no clear coat, and metal flake. I am confident that on roof, and one spot on the hood, it was applied so thin that that oxidation in the original paint is visible.

I will be polishing it 3-4 times a year, and am concerned about removing all of the previous owners non factory paint.

To remove fine swirls/scratches, and not remove the repaint, I was considering using 80 with a finishing pad, instead of a polishing pad, or possibly #9.

Am I overly concerned, or do you have any recommendations?


p.s. I was trying to avoid making this long(er) or listing other brands of products.

[Derrick]

Re: possible for #80 to be too aggresive?

To remove fine swirls/scratches, and not remove the repaint

This is impossible, to remove a swirl/ scratch means to remove the paint surrounding it and leveling the paint to the bottom of the scatch. The only way not to remove paint would be to just simply use a pure polish and seal it with something like NXT 2.0 to try and fill/ hide some of the swirls and scratches. I don't think you are overly concerned because i have seen a few repainted vehicles where the new paint was ridiculously thin. I saw a new sion XB where they repainted the hood black but only applied one coat of single stage gloss black. The owner asked about removing the few light swirls and i said i wont touch that hood with any kind of abrasive. For you to be able to see oxidation through the paint would mean that the paint was severely thin. Are you sure its not oxidation on the newer paint? Do you happen to have any pics? I just noticed this is your first post, Welcome to Meguiar's Online

[roushstage2]

Re: possible for #80 to be too aggresive?

To remove swirls/scratches, you must remove paint.
What it Means to Remove a Scratch out of anything

It is interesting that it would be repainted with a SS paint (are you sure that's what it is?), but SS paint is fun to work on. Oxidation of the original paint shouldn't be visible, it would more likely be the paint that they sanded so the new paint would stick. M80 does extremely well on single stage paints.

As for removing the swirls/scratches, I'm guessing you are working with a PC? It is always best to start with the least aggressive product. M09 would be a great start, followed by M80, and finally M83. I think M80 will be your "go to" product.

Any pictures of the car, and the trouble spots?

[Mike Phillips]

Re: possible for #80 to be too aggresive?

Since this was your first post ot our forum....


Welcome to Meguair's Online!

I have a repainted dark green 2001 nissan sentra with no clear coat, and metal flake.

If you use any product that removes a little paint on this single stage metallic paint you will alter how the metallic paint looks.

I am confident that on roof, and one spot on the hood, it was applied so thin that that oxidation in the original paint is visible.

Sounds like the paint was not properly prepared for new paint?

New paint should not be sprayed on top of oxidized paint, this is a recipe for paint failure in the near future.

Was this a spray can job?

[tucsondude]

Re: possible for #80 to be too aggresive?

Finally got off work.

Thanks for the welcome. I tried to get a picture but it only shows in certain levels of light. It is on about 30% of the roof. Those dots are part of a jagged oval that stretches all the way across, and are typically the size of my finger tip. Sorry for the bad phone picture.

I know polish fixes defects by removing paint, guess I worded incorrectly. I have read nearly every post on this board in the past month.

Whoever painted the car went to the trouble to remove the badges, but not all the glue/residue. I have found evidence that the main motivation to repaint involved illegal activities. I have no clue how to tell if it was a spray can.

While spot treating with scratchx by hand the paint was dulled and lighter in color; however, following this with a glaze/finishing polish (or for meguiars pure polish, I assume these are equivalent depending on brand) blended it perfectly.

Would #9 and #80 work fine with a 9006 pad (or equivalent)?
How about in 95-100F in low humidity?

didnt see the attach file option so:


Thank you

[Mike Phillips]

Re: possible for #80 to be too aggresive?

Would #9 and #80 work fine with a 9006 pad (or equivalent)?

How about in 95-100F in low humidity?

With what kind of tool? Or by hand?

If you're trying to be gentle then yes with a DA Polisher or by hand, but with a rotary buffer these two products as gentle as they are relative to a compound might remove too much paint.

Warmer temperatures can make application and wipe off more difficult, to help overcome temperature just work smaller areas.

didn't see the attach file option so:

Attaching Files over time junks up a forum so since we started this forum in 2004 we turned that option off since we're in this for the long run. We've already proved we're in this for the long run since 1901

We do offer you space in your own gallery here on the forum, just click on the Gallery text link and upload your photos after you resize them to 800 pixels wide or smaller.

There's threads on how to resize your photos on this forum if you're interested. We resize hundreds of photos everyday for people's viewing pleasure and it's not that hard to learn how.

[tucsondude]

Re: possible for #80 to be too aggresive?

ressurection

ok finally had a day to do my car. let me say that i am in love with #80. it makes my heart warm. oh #9 was fun too, but didnt have time for it on my car):.

after polishing i applied GC liquid wax,, then followed with #26. ( previously liked this combination on my dads grey town car).

a very small amount of green cam off with the gold class, but an almost ridiculous amount came off when applying the #26. I sort of rushed the waxing since I realized a thunder storm was coming and i was working in a carport.

I was using cheap terry towels for application.I have used them with various paint cleaners/polishes that barely seemed to turn green. used microfiber for buffing.

whats going on with 26? Also, the paint looked better before i applied GC, other ideas?


process was
clay
#80
buff each section with mf before moving on to next
GC liquid terry application, terry then mf removal.
#26 ' '

[daneZ_toda]

Re: possible for #80 to be too aggresive?

You have some serious paint problems of #26 is removing paint. #26 does not have any cleaners in it as it is a straight wax.

As for the hazing could it have been that the wax was not dry before removing it. If the thunder storm was approaching the humidity may have gone up and slowed the trying time to a halt.

From what you say about illegal activities, it was probably an el-cheapo single stage paint job put in the car only to change its color. They didn't care about how long the paint looked good hence the thin coat.

I would also loose the terry and apply and remove wax with a foam or microfiger wax applicator. Terry has been proven to scratch motr than microfiber.

As a test, take a terry cloth (applicator, trying towel whatever) and a old CD-R you don't need anymore (coaster) and buff with the terry and then buff with the microfiber.

If you see scratches don't use it in your paint.