First PC detail..great results..but M80 issues..

[jmanero123]

Hi,

I just used my new PC today with great results...the days of hand application are over! The DVD by Mike was extremely helpful.

I decided to use M80 to remove some defects..then on to NXT. I had problems with it drying too fast and then very difficult to remove. I remembered to clean the pad very often by pushing a microfiber into the running PC to remove excess...but as i went along the car...same problem..so I used Quik Detailer to remove the excess 80. Did this also remove polishes left behind?

I found that by using the M80 very liberally...it helped to stop the gumming up and drying out. I used enough product so that a creamy residue remained which was easily wiped off. It seemed that unless I used ample 80, the working time was very short...not enough to effeciently provide UMR.

So I chose not to use the 80 as a paint remover..but more to clean the paint and remove old wax..to prepare for the new NXT. I used equal pressure but moved the PC with greater arm speed.

In the future, will using more product allow me to use 80 more as it's intented...paint removal...without all that difficult removal.?

And I then plan to use #9 ,instead of 80, to clean the paint, remove wax without paint removal...still at 5 speed...and quicker arm speed....would this method suffice?

Any advice would be appreciated

[Michael Stoops]

Re: First PC detail..great results..but M80 issues..

When you apply the M80 to the pad you should be laying down a bead roughly 1/4" wide all the way around the pad, roughly 1" in from the outer edge. If you use significantly less than that you may well have the issues you did. M80 should give you a very long play time and break down to a clear, almost oily film that wipes off quite easily.

Next time, when cleaning the pad, try pressing it against a terry cloth rather than microfiber towel. I think it will help to pull more product out of the pad.

If you switch back and forth between M80 and #9 from time to time, keep your arm speed slow for both. They both need the dwell time over the surface in order to work - neither is terribly powerful in and of itself, and the DA certainly isn't, at least relative to the power of a rotary.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: First PC detail..great results..but M80 issues..

When you apply the M80 to the pad you should be laying down a bead roughly 1/4" wide all the way around the pad, roughly 1" in from the outer edge. If you use significantly less than that you may well have the issues you did. M80 should give you a very long play time and break down to a clear, almost oily film that wipes off quite easily.

.

Excellent description.

Next time, when cleaning the pad, try pressing it against a terry cloth rather than microfiber towel. I think it will help to pull more product out of the pad.

True. A soft fluffy 100% cotton terry cloth towel with a large nap, (the little cotton loops), will work better to help draw product out by absorbing the excess than microfiber polishing cloth usually will.

If you switch back and forth between M80 and #9 from time to time, keep your arm speed slow for both. They both need the dwell time over the surface in order to work - neither is terribly powerful in and of itself, and the DA certainly isn't, at least relative to the power of a rotary.

M09 when applied using a dual action polisher is so gentle to the finish that it's really only good for final polishing or working on soft paints, it's not going to cut or abrade the paint much at all. Great for final finishing however.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: First PC detail..great results..but M80 issues..

Hi,


I decided to use M80 to remove some defects..then on to NXT. I had problems with it drying too fast and then very difficult to remove.

I remembered to clean the pad very often by pushing a microfiber into the running PC to remove excess...but as i went along the car...same problem..

As long as you're not buffing to a dry buff, not overusing product and not tackling too large a section at one time, M80 should wipe off fairly easily. If not... how warm is it where you're working? Are you working in the shade and out of sunlight?

Try breaking open a small area of the layer of polish left behind and then creeping out from this spot taking little bites of the polish, sometimes taking little bites off instead of trying to wipe-off large bites will be a lot easier no mater how hard a product is to take off. Use a clean, dry soft microfiber that has a nap.

Hi,

so I used Quik Detailer to remove the excess 80. Did this also remove polishes left behind?

Yes, wiping a polish like M80 with a polishing cloth and a mist and wipe product will act to remove product not add product so yes is the answer but it's nothing to worry about.

Hi,

I found that by using the M80 very liberally...it helped to stop the gumming up and drying out. I used enough product so that a creamy residue remained which was easily wiped off. It seemed that unless I used ample 80, the working time was very short...not enough to efficiently provide UMR.

Every paint system will react in it's own way, what are you working on?

You want to use an ample amount of product for any process, an ample amount is enough to get the job done, not so little the product isn't effective. It is important to always work a product that contains diminishing abrasives long enough to completely breakdown the diminishing abrasives, usually for M80 Speed Glaze, two passes in two directions on the 5.0 speed setting with 10 to 15 pounds of pressure using a slow arm speed will do the job.

Remember... small section at at time, no more than 2' by 2' is a good guideline.

Hi,

So I chose not to use the 80 as a paint remover..but more to clean the paint and remove old wax..to prepare for the new NXT. I used equal pressure but moved the PC with greater arm speed.

In the future, will using more product allow me to use 80 more as it's intented...paint removal...without all that difficult removal.?

That should work.

Hi,

And I then plan to use #9 ,instead of 80, to clean the paint, remove wax without paint removal...still at 5 speed...and quicker arm speed....would this method suffice?

Any advice would be appreciated

Yes.

Hi,

UMR.

For those of you who might not know...

UMR = Uniform Material Removal

As in removing a uniform amount of paint over the entire surface being worked. This is one of the reasons you want to overlap your passes and also over lap from section into the previously worked section.

Hope this helps...

[jmanero123]

Re: First PC detail..great results..but M80 issues..

As long as you're not buffing to a dry buff, not overusing product and not tackling too large a section at one time, M80 should wipe off fairly easily. If not... how warm is it where you're working? Are you working in the shade and out of sunlight?

Try breaking open a small area of the layer of polish left behind and then creeping out from this spot taking little bites of the polish, sometimes taking little bites off instead of trying to wipe-off large bites will be a lot easier no mater how hard a product is to take off. Use a clean, dry soft microfiber that has a nap.




Yes, wiping a polish like M80 with a polishing cloth and a mist and wipe product will act to remove product not add product so yes is the answer but it's nothing to worry about.




Every paint system will react in it's own way, what are you working on?

You want to use an ample amount of product for any process, an ample amount is enough to get the job done, not so little the product isn't effective. It is important to always work a product that contains diminishing abrasives long enough to completely breakdown the diminishing abrasives, usually for M80 Speed Glaze, two passes in two directions on the 5.0 speed setting with 10 to 15 pounds of pressure using a slow arm speed will do the job.

Remember... small section at at time, no more than 2' by 2' is a good guideline.





That should work.




Yes.




For those of you who might not know...

UMR = Uniform Material Removal

As in removing a uniform amount of paint over the entire surface being worked. This is one of the reasons you want to overlap your passes and also over lap from section into the previously worked section.

Hope this helps...

Hi,

Thanks to Mike in Orange and Mike P...excellent as always...welcome back

What a smart decision to invest in the G-100...as a novice i found using the tool pretty easy and comfortable and very effective..compared to hand applied...never again. Some slight splatter..kissing helped to reduce that. And i found that all three pads 7006,8006 and9006 really really stuck to the backing plate..WOW!

My car just looks better overall...and once i can better apply 80...I'll get better results.

Mike...it was around 50 degrees here in Long Island, cloudy with some sun. After all that info...I'm convinced at first i was using too little product. I stuck to working a small area but became frustrated with the M80 drying up so fast...so used more of it and that seemed to work better. It seems there's a fine line between not using enough and using too much.

My car is a 99 Taurus..I'm guessing hard paint..don't know the manufacturer...as I used scratch x..by hand..with passion..with average results on a few isolated deeper scratches. But in fairness too deep to remove..however a slight improvement did occur.

Yesterday, i clayed for the first time..was unsure of the potential results...using smooth clay was a breeze and it WORKED very well...I was shocked. I'll clay prior to detailing from now on.

Thanks again for all the great advice