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Well, I got my G100 in the mail! 
Thanks so much, Meguiar's!! 
I've used it total about 2.5 hours so far. I've been pretty busy what with work and school and all; otherwise I probably would have used it much more. Anyways, I have a few questions regarding technique, etc.
1. I used it on my truck, which has clear coat failure (I think that's what it is called....it is little "cracks" in the clear coat). Is there anything I can do to prevent this from getting worse?
2. My white racing stripes (they are the stick-on kind, not painted on) have some nasty looking water spots on them. Is there anything y'all would suggest using on them? I tried #80 in a little spot, and it turned the stripe nice and white, but I think it made it a tad but duller. I was sort of expecting that to happen since they are fairly soft. #80 didn't seem to do anything for the water spots, though.
3. After about 4 passes of #80, speed 5, and the 8006 pad, I still have some scratches in my clear coat. The technique I used was tape off an area about two feet square, then put a ring of product on the buffer and spread it around. I then buffed it horizontally, vertically, and then diagonally, until it was almost clear, but not dry. I then wiped that layer off and started again. Does it sound like I used the right technique? If so, should I try #83, or just not worry about the scratches since there are cracks in the clear coat and it will never look perfect unless it is repainted?
4. On my other "victim", a 1990 Celica with badly oxidized, very scratched up red SS paint, I taped off an area and used the same technique. I got the paint looking pretty good, except for some deeper scratches. The only problem (besides the scratches of course) is that when I look at the flourescent light in the paint, it looks like there is somewhat of a ring around the light. It's not a ring of scratches, but a lighter colored ring. I think it might possibly be micro-marring, but I'm not sure if that is the correct term. If it is micro-marring, wouldn't it be caused by not breaking down the diminishing abrasives enough? Or could it be caused by using a slightly too agressive compound on soft paint? The thing is, the paint doesn't seem soft at all. In fact, the place that I'm seeing possible micro-marring seems to have harder paint than the rest of the car, which is quite possible since that side has been re-painted about 6 months ago. If it is micro-marring, what should I do to attempt to get rid of it?
5. What do y'all do to buff the paint under a spoiler? Just use ScratchX? There is of course no way to get the G100 under there.
6. Is it ok to use the pad that I've been using on the Celica on another car once I'm done with the Celica, or should I just throw it away? It gets pretty gummed up with paint, so every once in a while I run it on a terry towel to try to get the product and paint out.
Even with just 2.5 hours of buffing, I have learned a few things. I might as well share them with y'all just in case someone who hasn't used a PC reads this thread.
A. It's better to spend a little time before-hand taping off, then spend a while afterward trying to remove the product from black trim.
B. Don't lift the buffer from the terry towel you are cleaning it on until you have turned it off and it has stopped completely; for that matter don't lift it from anything before it has stopped. (I knew better than to do that but I accidentally ran off the edge of the towel and it was either lift the buffer or run it on the concrete floor)
C. #80 can sling pretty far at speed 5.
D. Soaking jeans and a nice cotton T-shirt in Oxi-Clean, Gain laundry detergent, and hot water over night will remove #80 and SS red paint that has been flung onto them.
Sorry about all the questions, y'all, and thanks so much for helping me out with the ones I've already asked.
-Lydia
Thanks so much, Meguiar's!! I've used it total about 2.5 hours so far. I've been pretty busy what with work and school and all; otherwise I probably would have used it much more. Anyways, I have a few questions regarding technique, etc.
1. I used it on my truck, which has clear coat failure (I think that's what it is called....it is little "cracks" in the clear coat). Is there anything I can do to prevent this from getting worse?
2. My white racing stripes (they are the stick-on kind, not painted on) have some nasty looking water spots on them. Is there anything y'all would suggest using on them? I tried #80 in a little spot, and it turned the stripe nice and white, but I think it made it a tad but duller. I was sort of expecting that to happen since they are fairly soft. #80 didn't seem to do anything for the water spots, though.
3. After about 4 passes of #80, speed 5, and the 8006 pad, I still have some scratches in my clear coat. The technique I used was tape off an area about two feet square, then put a ring of product on the buffer and spread it around. I then buffed it horizontally, vertically, and then diagonally, until it was almost clear, but not dry. I then wiped that layer off and started again. Does it sound like I used the right technique? If so, should I try #83, or just not worry about the scratches since there are cracks in the clear coat and it will never look perfect unless it is repainted?
4. On my other "victim", a 1990 Celica with badly oxidized, very scratched up red SS paint, I taped off an area and used the same technique. I got the paint looking pretty good, except for some deeper scratches. The only problem (besides the scratches of course) is that when I look at the flourescent light in the paint, it looks like there is somewhat of a ring around the light. It's not a ring of scratches, but a lighter colored ring. I think it might possibly be micro-marring, but I'm not sure if that is the correct term. If it is micro-marring, wouldn't it be caused by not breaking down the diminishing abrasives enough? Or could it be caused by using a slightly too agressive compound on soft paint? The thing is, the paint doesn't seem soft at all. In fact, the place that I'm seeing possible micro-marring seems to have harder paint than the rest of the car, which is quite possible since that side has been re-painted about 6 months ago. If it is micro-marring, what should I do to attempt to get rid of it?
5. What do y'all do to buff the paint under a spoiler? Just use ScratchX? There is of course no way to get the G100 under there.
6. Is it ok to use the pad that I've been using on the Celica on another car once I'm done with the Celica, or should I just throw it away? It gets pretty gummed up with paint, so every once in a while I run it on a terry towel to try to get the product and paint out.
Even with just 2.5 hours of buffing, I have learned a few things. I might as well share them with y'all just in case someone who hasn't used a PC reads this thread.
A. It's better to spend a little time before-hand taping off, then spend a while afterward trying to remove the product from black trim.
B. Don't lift the buffer from the terry towel you are cleaning it on until you have turned it off and it has stopped completely; for that matter don't lift it from anything before it has stopped. (I knew better than to do that but I accidentally ran off the edge of the towel and it was either lift the buffer or run it on the concrete floor)
C. #80 can sling pretty far at speed 5.
D. Soaking jeans and a nice cotton T-shirt in Oxi-Clean, Gain laundry detergent, and hot water over night will remove #80 and SS red paint that has been flung onto them.
Sorry about all the questions, y'all, and thanks so much for helping me out with the ones I've already asked.
-Lydia
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